Okay, so here's the scenario....
Over a year ago I got my JWT ECU for my KA-T, programmed for 370 cc injectors, stock MAFS, stock CR. After installing the ECU multiple times and cranking down the white ECU harness tightly, the car wouldn't start for some reason....I eventually got it to start, but in tightening down the one screw that holds the connection harness to the ECU, the head of the screw actually twisted off, so there is no screw. Back then, I had no intention of ever changing my ECU so I shrugged it off and thought I'd cross that bridge if I ever needed to come to it again...
Well now I do. In order to run any more boost in my freshly rebuilt engine, I need more fuel, and a JWT ECU programmed for 50 lb fuel injectors and a Cobra MAFS. I have already purchased the ECU.
But here's the problem: The ECU harness is tightly screwed in, but the screw has no head on it, so I don't exactly know how to get the screw out. I already tried JB-welding another bolt (with a flat tip) to the sheared off end of the screw, but when I went to loosen this bolt welded onto the screw, it just fell right off. Apparently JB weld isn't THAT strong.
Does anyone have ANY idea on how the hell I can remove this screw, and therefore the ECU, without damaging anything? I was thinking of possibly drilling a tiny hole in the damaged screw, then screwing in another small screw (that's smaller than the damaged one), and JB welding the threads of the small screws and then trying it again...Not sure how well this would work. And if you look at the pictures below, it's impossible to get needle nose pliers (at least the ones I have) in there far enough to get a good grip on the broken screw. Can the ECU be taken apart to get at this screw? I've never taken apart an ECU and am a little nervous to do so. The ECU cannot in any way be damaged because I NEED the money from the selling it.
Please see attached pics. I need some creative, ingenious solutions....
Here's a picture to give you some perspective. This is in the passenger footwell of a '95 OBD II S14. The broken screw is right in the middle of the hole in the white plastic ECU harness connector.
And here's a close up of the screw to show how tight the quarters are...
Thanks in advance...
Feeling extremely dumb,
Marc
I did something extremely stupid...Need some CREATIVE, innovative minds! (pics)
^^^
Don't remember what Sears calls them, but they used to be called "EZ-Outs". Basically a pronged drill bit, you drill into the screw, then reverse the drill and the prongs catch and thread the screw out as the drill reverses.
I don't think a tiny screw like that is going to cause you much trouble, just be real careful and slow with the drill.
Don't remember what Sears calls them, but they used to be called "EZ-Outs". Basically a pronged drill bit, you drill into the screw, then reverse the drill and the prongs catch and thread the screw out as the drill reverses.
I don't think a tiny screw like that is going to cause you much trouble, just be real careful and slow with the drill.
Re: (nab911)
I just picked up a screw extractor for use at sears....for use with a 1/8" drill bit, but I think it may be too big...this screw is barely 1/8" in diameter, maybe 3/16"...
-
Structure240sx
- Posts: 5615
- Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 5:04 pm
-
:: orion ::
- Posts: 1483
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2003 4:40 pm
- Car: '96 240SX, with KA-T @ 12psi...
- Contact:
-
iknowyoulike
- Posts: 174
- Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 8:41 pm
Re: (iknowyoulike)
Send me an email: [email protected]iknowyoulike wrote:off topic but you said your selling it..how much?
nab911: yes I know 3/16" is bigger than 1/8"....the point I was trying to make is that the drill bit is almost as big as the screw itself making it hard to drill.
Furthermore, I drilled out the screw today with a 1/8" bit and tried using a craftsman screw extractor, and it did not work, at all. All that it did was widen the hole that was already drilled....it did not catch the metal, and it did not budge, at all. So I JB welded the screw extractor in there and tapped it in even further with a hammer (the way the extractor is designed the tip is smaller than the rest of the body). if that doesn't work at getting this thing out, I am royally screwed (yes, the pun was intended).
Kind of pisses me off that a) the head of a screw like that breaks off so damn easily and b) that screw extractors, designed solely for the purpose of extracting a screw, do not work. That thing is not in there that tight by any means.
I don't know how much room you have to work with (maybe none from the sounds of it) but if the extractor doesn't work, maybe another idea is taking a small flathead screwdriver and hammer it into the screwhead remains to make a slot, then unscrew it flat-head style. Similar to what Brian suggested, but for a small screw like that you might able to just chisel a slot in, instead of dremeling it.
Dunno, sorry for your plight...if it's any consolation, I once had a single stupid flathead screw hold up my MG's motor rebuild for 3 weeks. It was heat-welded to the block threads. I wound up borrowing my grandfather's 3 foot long 1920's era hardened-steel flathead screwdriver (I'm not exaggerating) and torqueing the damn thing out, it came out hot enough to burn my hand.
It'll come out eventually...just remember, you're bigger than the screw...
Dunno, sorry for your plight...if it's any consolation, I once had a single stupid flathead screw hold up my MG's motor rebuild for 3 weeks. It was heat-welded to the block threads. I wound up borrowing my grandfather's 3 foot long 1920's era hardened-steel flathead screwdriver (I'm not exaggerating) and torqueing the damn thing out, it came out hot enough to burn my hand.
It'll come out eventually...just remember, you're bigger than the screw...
Re: (MarkEmark)
Screw extractors usually work pretty good. I had to use one for my bleeder screw on the cooling system. The set I bought came w/ the correct size drill bit for each extractor so you just drill the hole, tap the extractor in w/ a hammer, put your tap wrench on the extractor, and turn the screw out. You may also want to look into some left-hand-threaded drill bits. With those, you basically run the drill in reverse and drill a hole just like normal and the bit will usually end up turning the screw.
Re: (nismo521)
Well, the JB weld idea failed. I hate JB weld, doesn't work any better than elmer's glue, at least not in "welding" steel in a hole.nismo521 wrote:Screw extractors usually work pretty good. I had to use one for my bleeder screw on the cooling system. The set I bought came w/ the correct size drill bit for each extractor so you just drill the hole, tap the extractor in w/ a hammer, put your tap wrench on the extractor, and turn the screw out. You may also want to look into some left-hand-threaded drill bits. With those, you basically run the drill in reverse and drill a hole just like normal and the bit will usually end up turning the screw.
The screw extractor's doing what it's done the whole time, just widening the existing pilot hole...none of the ledges designed to dig into the metal catch or anything like that....THIS IS NOT a screw that's in there that tight either! I can't believe it....it cannot possibly be in that tight, and it's not working AT ALL. i had that stupid extractor tapped in the pilot hole with a hammer, and then using pliers to grip the bit and push in at the same time, turned it, and it didn't work, again.
I guess my only option is tapping in a screw driver and hope that works. I am so fuked if it doesnt work...
Re: (MarkEmark)
Don't use a pair of pliers to turn the extractor, that's a good way to break it off and good luck drilling that out. Do yourself a favor and buy a tap wrench. This may be a silly question, but which way are you turning the extractor? You have to drill the hole pretty deep, then knock it in there with a hammer pretty good, attach the tap wrench to it and whack it a few more times. Turn it left just like you are taking a screw out. You seriously should try a left-handed drill bit, you usually don't even need the extractor with those things.
Re: (MarkEmark)
There is a newer type stripped screw extractor out and if i was at work i would give you a brand name(little yellow case). The extractor looks a little like a reverse twist drill bit crossed w/ a screw driver bit. I've found that these work best when you turn slowely by hand giving the extractor edge a chance to bite in. Its saved my butt a few times.
Re: (nismo521)
I DO have a tap wrench, I just couldn't find it and didn't feel like turning the garage upside down to do so...nismo521 wrote:Don't use a pair of pliers to turn the extractor, that's a good way to break it off and good luck drilling that out. Do yourself a favor and buy a tap wrench. This may be a silly question, but which way are you turning the extractor? You have to drill the hole pretty deep, then knock it in there with a hammer pretty good, attach the tap wrench to it and whack it a few more times. Turn it left just like you are taking a screw out. You seriously should try a left-handed drill bit, you usually don't even need the extractor with those things.
BUT, I finally got that g-damn little screw out.
I bought a different style screw extractor, the kind with the left hand twists that almost looks like a regular drill bit, and it came out in seconds, NO problem.
My previous screw extractor was a four sided pyramid shape fluted screw extractor made by Craftsman, which, ironically, was DESIGNED for use with soft metals (like the screw) and was supposed to grip better than the screw extractor that ultimately got the screw out. What a load of BS...Something should have gone off in my head when I realized I was using a 4 sided bit to go into a round HOLE. With the 4 sided screw extractor, I pounded the thing in there pretty hard, JB welded it, let it sit, and it still just ground away at the metal inside of the screw.
The other screw extractor had not a single problem...
Here's a picture...
The screw extractor on the right is the one that worked flawlessly. The one on the left didn't work worth a damn. You've been warned...
Thanks for all the help guys.
And o_alcha3...I ran the quarter mimle in 13.86 @ 108.9 according to my G-tech. The engine's just been rebuilt, and when the car is finally up and running and the engine is broken in/the fuel system is upgraded, i hope to be making ~330 whp.
Re: (MarkEmark)
Yeah, the set I have all look like the one on the right. I've never seen the type on the left before. Glad to hear that worked for ya, broken screws are a royal PITA.