i come to a stop and the car stalls???

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josephg15
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ok so i got my car running about a month ago and i am having this problem...this is all the time no matter if the car is hot or not...the car will idle and run great, but when i come to a stop the idle will drop and stall, unless i give it some gas...i was thinking IACV...has anyone had this problem?


CoupedUp
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That is probably the most common problem.

You have boost/Vacuum leaks. Your BOV if vented to atmosphere is a problem.

josephg15
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when i go home ill check to see what my vaccum is...what is it supposed to read? im boosting fine...yes my bov is vented into the air...

BobAfrEak
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throttle body?

josephg15
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throttle bod? what about it?

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adrianfromthecastle
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I say mafs.... but more detail on the stalling part. Does it bog down to like 500rpms or less? Try this, when you drive then get to a stop, pull over while its bogging low, then pull your mafs plug off and see if it corrects it's idle. That way you know for sure its not your mafs.

josephg15
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ok this is what happens...- i start the car and it idles at about 800 rpm- i pull out of the drive and go down the street to my gate, when i come to the gate and just when im coming to a stop (im applying the brakes) the idle drops and then drops all the way down and the car stalls...- other than that the car runs great...

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adrianfromthecastle
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try my method

NY S13 SR
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Recirculate your BOV, that is what is causing the stalling.

_______________________Jeff Hhttp://www.heavythrottle.com


josephg15
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i dont know exactly how to recurcilate my bov...plus my bov is on my cold pipe right before the throttle body...so what would i have to do? will it sound different?

92SR20S13
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Either A: Buy an SAFC and it will correct the stalling or B: Recirc the bov...depending on what bov your using you need to get a recirc fitting if possible and run a hose from your bov to your intake but it has to be a couple inches behind the maf meaning closer to your turbo..that should fix your problem. Also depending on how much boost your running you might not hear your bov anymore at all..happend to me when i was running only 7psi on a t28 with a greddy type S which is loud..now i have a big t3/t4 turbo and my bov isnt recirced at the moment and it wants to stall all the time..i just feather the gas in neutral when coming to a stop

josephg15
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ok so...i have a greddy type-rs..do i need a special fitting? im thinking so...what if i put it on the hot pipe? will i have to recurilate it?

92SR20S13
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Either way dosent matter where it goes if its venting you will have to recirc it..i got my fitting for like 25 bucks and i beleive yours is the same..if you cant find a fitting use a hose clamp and clamp it right on your bov then run the other end behind your maf

josephg15
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i found a greddy anti-stall valve on the optionimports.com website for $50...i think i am going to buy it next pay check and see how it works...

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redtop91
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Unless your BOV is venting at stop lights I really don't think that is the problem. The BOV should only vent when boost is lost, IE throttle off. Not when you are idling. Recirulation isn't the answer to your problem.

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adrianfromthecastle
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redtop91 wrote: Recirulation isn't the answer to your problem.

92SR20S13
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His car dosent stall at idle..it idles fine and stops when he comes to a stop light...which does happen on vented bov's..my bov is almost the same as his and i have the same problems.

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redtop91
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If that is the case his BOV is leaking if anything. It's not an issue of recirculation. Not recirculating will cause bog 99.9% of the time.

NY S13 SR
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On the 80+ installs we did, vented BOV caused stalling at stop lights about 50% of the time.

It is most likely a recirc problem. He isn't bogging he is stalling. Open atmo BOV does NOT cause bogging or any bad thing other than stalling at lights.

The anti-stall valve worked great on the one SR I tried it on. Also you can try bumping the idle up, but set timing first.

EDIT: BTW stock sidemount recirc valve can not be run open - it is designed to run open at idle, then close as pressure builds. BOV is not the same as Recirc Valve.

_______________________Jeff HHeavy Throttle Performance Inchttp://www.heavythrottle.com

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redtop91
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Try it but I still doubt that is the problem highly.

NY S13 SR
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retop91:

Everyone says its the problem but you do not think so. Why? What evidence or alternate cause do you offer?

Why confuse people? I'll bet you a CS shift knob recirc fixes it.

________________________Jeff HHeavy Throttle Performance Inc

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redtop91
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redtop91 wrote:I'd say IACV. Is it only when you are driving and then stop? Or is it when you are idling as well? I think he was trying to say have you cleaned the TB.
Arguing over the interwebnet is for queers. If you continue to argue that is what you are. I made my suggestion for an alternative. You need to read more carefully before blurting things out. Also stop being anal because I disagree with you. Save the Stupid shift knob bet for someone who cares about a shift knob. Buy the OP's recirc kit if you are wrong.

NY S13 SR
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Well if you want to be an a$$ about it, go f*** off!

Honestly, this is it for NICO for me. I try to help and get snotty attitude from know it all d!ck like you every time.

Say anything inventive you want about me, I will not be back to read it.

_____________________Jeff HHeavy Throttle Performance Inc


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redtop91
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Nonononono. Don't run away from the problem. I have no problem with you personally and I might come off as rough around the edges. I can live with that. However, I can't live with someone who questions my right to have an opinion. Plain and simple. Irregardless if you choose to take it personally that is your decision. Back to the topic at hand. You might try the cheap alternative of cleaning the intake line from the turbo to the throttle body. It's a possible solution and it is free, barring the carb cleaner.

doridori23
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Car: 1996 SR20deT 240sx (mine) , 1998 KA24de (wife's)

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josephg15 wrote:ok so...i have a greddy type-rs..do i need a special fitting? im thinking so...what if i put it on the hot pipe? will i have to recurilate it?
You can not say for sure its the BOV. First off you have an RS just loosen the nut and turn the stud in (harder) then tighten the nut back down (dont go gorilla torque just make it snug). Go in half turn increments until you notice an improvement. If you have gone all the way in and no improvement is noticed then its not the BOV as it wont even open all the way in unless your boosting >24psi.

doridori23
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92SR20S13 wrote:His car dosent stall at idle..it idles fine and stops when he comes to a stop light...which does happen on vented bov's..my bov is almost the same as his and i have the same problems.
Then adjust your BOV like the GReddy instructions I posted above. They came with you BOV unless it was hot/knockoff.

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adrianfromthecastle
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NY S13 SR wrote:retop91:

Everyone says its the problem but you do not think so. Why? What evidence or alternate cause do you offer?

Why confuse people? I'll bet you a CS shift knob recirc fixes it.

________________________Jeff HHeavy Throttle Performance Inc
I have the Greddy RS... I'll bet you a CS shift knob!I'm about 80% sure its not the venting thats causing the stalling (unless hes leaving the spring too soft, then duh).

Tighten the spring to the point where you can somewhat hear compressor surge on low boost like around .1bar, that way you know that its not too open. You shouldnt be stalling to the point where you have to restart your car. It will just bog low like 400rpms.

If you car's still stalling to the point you have to restart your car, its either mine or redtop's suggestion..

josephg15
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Car: 1992 240sx

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you know what...im going to put the harder spring in, becuase i have the softer spring in right now and its on soft. so ill put the harder spring in and adjust it tonight...ill let you guys know what happens.


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