Bogging
(I replaced the): coolant temp sensor, knock sensor, o2 sensor,TPS sensor, fuel filter , fuel pump, fuel lines, FPR, ECU, Upper and Lower engine bay harnesses.NGK plugs and wires.

(I Tested): The MAF sensor with a known working one from a friends car. I tried checking the timing, I checked for leaking and "stuck open" Injectors, nothing sprayed or leaked when primed.

Im also getting gas in my oil So im gonna do compression test soon. But I dont think the problem is piston rings it only has 98k
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiFS4wKx ... 170ad1a413[/youtube]

The gauges haven't worked as far back as I know. It had the dash and cluster replaced ,and I know it needs a speed sensor.
and the car is now painted.

I've tried to figure out the bogging issue but I cant, I checked grounds and vacuum lines,timing,etc,etc. but im tired of guessing and nobody I know can fix it. going on 2 years since the car drove.

Sounds like rod knock,misfire or a bad exhaust leak of sorts. Does it sound like rod knock to you?

Do you have spark on all cylinders, did you remove the chain guide?

Definitely not rod knock. there is missfiring happening obviously. But that muffled sound you hear is an exhaust leak. The video was recorded on my girlfriends cell phone so it sounds like a dirt bike

Use the FSM and check for codes
Check for spark on all 4 cylinders.
Use a wooden dowel and hold them to the injectors and listen to see if they all sound the same.
If you adjusted timing set as per the FSM
Check Compression.

I have tuesdays and wednesdays off to work on it as long as I dont have other things pop up. So tuesday I should be able to do a compression test, but I dont think it would idle so good if it was the piston rings, although I cant deny the gas in my oil.
it seems like it wants to run right but when it gets to much throttle to fast it bogs, I can ease on it and it will climb rpms untill it bogs again, ( if you watch the video you can see at first I quickly depressed the throttle and then slowly eased on it and you can hear it bogg, accelerate ,then bogg again)
so would it be able to run the way it does with bad compression, because I know I have spark, I know its timed right ( I have a timing gun),all the engine bay sensors are new. wiring harnesses and ecu are new, and theres only one vacuum hose going to the intake manifold to the FPR because it has all the emissions stuff deleted, I mean what else could it be??????? I have another ka24de motor already disassembled from when I put this other motor in so if i have to rebuild, im going to just sell this one as-is and either build that one or go for the LS1 or LS2 swap. I've got all this money for a ka-t setup not sure what to do now.
I'll post the compression test results in a few days thanks for listening

compression test showed 175-180 across the cylinders

I don't know for sure what it is, but compression seems a little high. Most engines I have tested show about 125-150lbs compression. I have seen timing belts incorrectly installed and have the compression be 175-190lbs. After removing the belt and installing correctly the compression 140-150lbs. Just thought I would throw that in.

hmmmm... really
I know the FSM said 179 was factory spec for good
but I do remember quickley throwing together the altenator , ps , and the belt. I just made it fit ( tightly ) and kept going, I guess I never did really properly put the belt on to fsm protocal. It was pretty tight so I figured the timing chain would do the rest as far as timing the motor goes. I'll check out the fsm for belts

I think you have the timing chain off (1) tooth.

I dont think it would idle as good as it does... I dont have timing chain rattle

My corvette did the same thing I chased it forever and it turned out to be a fuel pressure regulator

Are the fuel lines routed properly? In at the back and out at the front near the FPR?

Fuel in the oil is a leaking lower injector o-ring, or a cracked/broken injector pintle cap. Ur pouring fuel into the motor.

This is what I thought, and I'm in the process of buying the deatschwerks injectors. But when I take my injectors out and prime the fuel pump they dont leak anywhere. And I had two sets of injectors, but a mud wasp built a home in them now they're ruined. I was told leaks were pretty obvious though. And im still getting the code 34 for knock sensor when it bogs down, does that normally happen when the injectors leak? I've already replaced the knock sensor and all the wiring in between. its the only code that comes up. when we ran ECU talk all we could find was the ignition timing dropping, Even VancouverBC said it could be reading that because of million other things. so I tried to replace everything

And yes the fuel lines go in at the front out at the back near the fpr ( fuel rail )

Since you said that you replaced it, did you use shielded wire? That signal is really bad about noise.

I replaced both OEM engine bay wiring harnesses and the knock sensor. but not the small piece from the upper harness to the sensor, this probably the spot you're refering to. what do you mean by signal noise? I've heard that the knock sensor can cause limp mode which drops ignition timing. but I've also heard code 34 can come up when rpms drop below 600

It's silly how little KA experience I have, but if it is an inch or two I wouldn't be worried about it. I'm not sure what the ECU does when there isn't a knock sensor, but it would be interesteing to see if you end up with more consistant values through ecu talk if it is unpluged.

But I replaced all of the parts in between the sensor to the ECU so im confused?????? If thats even whats causing the problem.

Have u tried the MAF? My car was doing the exact same thing and i replaced the MAF and its all better now. Does the car smoke alot? Alot of black smoke come out of the tail pipe? and 170-180 is perfectly fine for a ka, 125-150 is a little low for a car.

Yes I tested that by using and friends whose was working fine, it made no difference when we swapped them. and no smoke

I was getting a code 34 when I had some bad grounds on the back of the head on the exhaust side. The car had been sitting for years and they corroded up. Pull off all the grounds, clean both surfaces with a wire brush, but some anti-sieze on the mating surfaces (anti-sieze is usually electrically conductive and creates a moisture barrier to prevent future corrosion), and put it back together. You could just be getting the code 34 in response to the poor running, not the other way around.

That Sounds about right, I thought it was grounding at first too so when I bought the new harnesses I re-did the grounds near the battery, on the intake mani,on the valve cover, on the driver side strut tower, and was im in the process of running a 4gauge wire to the firewall. but so far no luck 0 ohms when I tested the grounds so im not sure if its has no resistance but not enough ground regardless.

If ur getting 0 Ohms, ur fine, More grounds won't help. I would still say that for you to get enough fuel into the motor to flood the oil out, you'd have to have a leaking injector. Also, did you change the oil since finding that much gas in it? You'll ruin the bearings in short order if you don't.

Yeah I changed the oil.. And I only start it to run tests. I didn't want to get cylinder wash because of the oil squiters

It was timing the whole time. It was set at TDC with the dist. in #1 position and adjusted 20 btdc probably 1,000,000 times but it was wrong everytime...we used a timing light and its now good as new.
Thanks everybody who tried to help, goes to show even when you think your right the FSM knows best.