I added a second radiator to my S13 to fix cooling issues.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Depends.... He was taking about a 4-6 inch core radiator, a 3 inch radiator is a different animal, but you are correct, solid airflow is key, pressure is key, and so is the proper flow rate. Too fast and it wont allow the water enough time to cool, too slow and they can heat soak.

My heat soak issue is that of venting. I may prop the rear of the hoof a little, but I hate the ascetics of it.

I expect a good water temp drop with this set up. Its about 15% more surface area, and it vents into a area where heat is trapped. I need to wrap my headers still,wrap the intake, vent the bay, and add the oil cooler.

I think when you get your running, you may have to do something to disburse the heat too,

[killernoodle]

Depends.... He was taking about a 4-6 inch core radiator, a 3 inch radiator is a different animal, but you are correct, solid airflow is key, pressure is key, and so is the proper flow rate. Too fast and it wont allow the water enough time to cool, too slow and they can heat soak.

My heat soak issue is that of venting. I may prop the rear of the hoof a little, but I hate the ascetics of it.

I expect a good water temp drop with this set up. Its about 15% more surface area, and it vents into a area where heat is trapped. I need to wrap my headers still,wrap the intake, vent the bay, and add the oil cooler.

I think when you get your running, you may have to do something to disburse the heat too,

Actually, water flow does not need to be optimized at a certain speed. More water flow will always yield better cooling.

Its a popular misconception.

[nando]

correct me if im wrong but the LS engines are a GM product right?

most of the LS series run GM DEx Cool radiator fluid because of the aluminum heads and block. Its orange instead of green. i would def consider a flush and fill with dex cool and water.

just a thought tho

[OutToWinPAHC]

Yes they do run that factory, but people dont stick with it.

This the the reason.... http://www.consumeraffairs.com....html

[OutToWinPAHC]

Actually, water flow does not need to be optimized at a certain speed. More water flow will always yield better cooling.

Its a popular misconception.

See I would like to agree here, but I cant, there is a reason the pumps are engineered at certain rates, Put the same hot water through it faster and faster the radiator wont be able to keep up because the water would be moving too fast.

None the less, an electric water pump is on my list.

[2.4Loflove]

I was looking at this month's import tuner mag and they tested out two s14 cooling panels ( on the OEM cooling system ofcourse). One was the smaller aluminum one like what you have and the other was the full carbon fiber one that covered pretty much everything to the fenders on either side. The big one cooled the temps by about ten degrees in 3rd gear/sustained aggressive driving. The smaller one only cooled about two degrees in the same conditions... so I guess they only are really useful during higher speeds when the incoming air is turbulent enough to just bypass the radiator instead of going through it. Serious cooling setup btw I want to get those mishimoto fans and shroud.
Modified by 2.4Loflove at 11:03 AM 7/26/2009

[ricebike]

nando, he's using mostly distilled water and a surfactant-additive

Quote »70% distilled water1.5 bottles of water wetter30% coolant (green) this prevents corrosion and lubricates the pump

Water wetter and water do cool the best, but the lubrication properties are iffy. A little coolant lubes and also raises the boiling point[/quote]green, yellow, orange doesn't matter w/ his set-up

one of the pics you posted, i noticed that you don't have your headers heat wrapped? that should help in gettin rid of some of the underhood heat soaking... thanks for sharing your project on nico, PAHC... it's sick!

[OutToWinPAHC]

Yeah its on my list to do. I was thinking of ceramic coating, but I am going get them blasted instead, heat painted and wrap them.

Ceramic coating damages o2 sensors. I read a lot of this, and countless LS guys run stainless for this reason.

While the headers are out I am also going to relocate my o2 bungs because they are a PITA to change.

Mini rad, about 6500 cfms of fans, oil cooler, and wrapped intake and headers should put me down the my goal temp of 180's

But the reason I posted this because there are a number of track cars KA24 or SR that could also benefit from a similar set up. I had never seen this done before, but a lot of people will run the heat after a run to help get temps down, so its just a simple heater core relocation that helps cool

[nando]

OutToWinPAHC & ricebike

Oh ok, i gotcha. Thanks for the info fix

[240pav]

YOU my friend are a GENIUS !!!i love custom work !!

[killernoodle]

See I would like to agree here, but I cant, there is a reason the pumps are engineered at certain rates, Put the same hot water through it faster and faster the radiator wont be able to keep up because the water would be moving too fast.

None the less, an electric water pump is on my list.

I suggest you do a little reading.

http://www.arrowheadradiator.c...s.htm

The only negative to increasing coolant flow is the possibility of causing excessive cavitation in the water pump, causing premature wear on the impeller and reducing flow.

[OutToWinPAHC]

"There are some cautions to be observed in increasing coolant flow rate, however. Going too far may result in aeration and foaming of the coolant, possible damage to the radiator by overpressure, cavitation of the pump, due to excessive pressure drop through the radiator, and erosion of the radiator tubes. The ideal coolant flow rate is one that will provide optimum coolant flow velocity through the radiator tubes in the range of 6 to 8 feet per second. Flow velocities above 10 feet per second should be avoided. "

Pretty good read, none the less options are still limited to OE style pumps, an Edelbrock pump, or electric 55GPM street rated pump which is being budgeted.

But in reading the most important things I read were increased radiator surface, and more air to the surface increase cooling. Which by adding the heater core in the fashion that I did achieve that. Overall I have 15-20% more cooling surface, with excellent flow. I hope to see a 15 degree drop alone with it.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Bad news..... I had to relocate the "mini rad" so I mocked up a new bracket (temp use, hoses were too close to the the wheel). I have to make a better bracket now, maybe even get another heater core because in mock up i have banged this guy around and stressed it some.

The good news...... Temps are down 30 degrees. This thing here is taking the heat at the hottest part of the pump and chilling it out before it goes parallel into the radiator.

Oil Cooler is coming very soon. I have been talking to a vendor about getting one of theirs, but I want this thing back on the road.

Temp at idle.... and after bleeding, running, going for a drive to the store, back home, and letting it sit for 15 minutes with the fans on.... 176 degrees from an average of 210

[C3Sierra_S2000]

Pretty interesting read here. I am having heat soak issues with my L92 in my S14. Driving hard or sitting and idling my temps slowly rise. I'm running a full shroud and dual 1400cfm fans which should be enough. I switched to a 160 degree thermostat and that helped some but not completely. I am about to switch out to some SPAL 2000 cfm fans and hope this helps. I think what would really help would be a vented hood but I really like my OEM one.

Keep us posted with your progress.