Hydraulic lifter bleeding?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
chixwithtrix
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I was just told that the RB25 I picked up needs to have one of the hydraulic lifters bled since it ticks. Is it worth it to remove the cams, etc for one lifter? Does the tap cause any damage?


Darius
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I highly doubt only one lifter would need to be bled. They should never need to be bled. If the ticking lasts more than 20 seconds or so after startup, it is either not pressurizing (extending) or there's something more serious.

You can check with a feeler gauge to make sure that there isn't any gap between the lifter and cam when the lobe is opposite from the lifter face.

chixwithtrix
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Thus is what he said:

"One of the hydraulic lash adjusters needs to be bled. I'm not sure which one, but the engine always had a lifter tick after the HKS double-thick head gasket was put in and the head rebuilt"

Darius
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What was rebuilt? Did it get new valves?

Head gasket has no connection to the lifters so I don't know why that would be mentioned.

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cdorhout
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Did you do any oil mods that would restrict oil from getting to the head?

FYI, after my rebuilt, it took my car probably 10 minutes to fully pressurize the lifters, so if you haven't given it much time yet, you may just want to idle longer and wait to see if they fill up.

chixwithtrix
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I have never run the engine, and I have no history with it really. Yes, the head was rebuilt.

I just bought the engine and am currently installing it in my 240 and would like to know what I should do before it goes into the car and becomes harder to work on....I'm running out of time. I don't particularly want to take out the cams, but if I don't have a choice I will.

Darius
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First, push down on each lifter with your thumb and see if it moves more than a millimeter or two. If it does, then the lifter should be disassembled and cleaned to ensure that the ball check valve inside isn't just stuck and malfunctioning. Yes you'll have to remove the cam(s) for this.

Ok assuming that there's new valves in there and it has a "tick", you need to check the lash with a feeler gauge. If you can slide the thinnest gauge between the cam and lifter, it is most likely going to tick.

The gap could be due to a valve stem being too short or the seat not being cut to match the valve. Numerous reasons, but dead lifter is fairly unlikely.


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