Hydraulic Clutch problem

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prizzom
Posts: 72
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:33 pm
Car: 95 240sx and FJ cruiser

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Okay i read on the other forum post and tried what other people said but none of it helped.

This is my problem, when i push the clutch pedal down it wont come back up. There is no feeling in my pedal at all. So far i brought it to the lift and we check the slave, it was good there was no leak or fluids. So i bought a new Master, thinking it must have just been that. I installed the new master and adjusted the shaft thing on the master so that the pedal moves from the top switch (cruise) and to the bottom switch (ignition) fine. We went to go bleed the lines, first we bleed the one by the box, i think its called the booster line, then we bleed the slave. We bleed it with a vacuum sucker thing and there were a bunch of bubbles coming out and the bubbles wouldn't stop coming out. So we tried the old method of pressing the pedal down three times (pulling it all the way up then pushing it all the way down), and then held it down and loosen the bleeding screw. we didnt have any bubbles comes out when we did that method. But the hydaulic system still isnt working. What could be the problem?

Thanks


scottydog
Posts: 261
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 3:22 am
Car: 1992 240sx

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Could be the slave, or likely the dampener box. It has a valve that gets gummed up. Pull the box, reroute the line to a new slave, (they're cheap), and bleed. Should work.

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prizzom
Posts: 72
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:33 pm
Car: 95 240sx and FJ cruiser

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That was what i was thinking. I was wondering what that extra lenght of line was. People said it was to cool the fluids. if i do take that extra line out will my fluid get really hot and form air bubbles when i take it to the tracks?

I just did a SR swap and i haven't drove my car since the swap, because of my hydraulic problems. But before the swap my car hydraulic worked fine.

Thanks

scottydog
Posts: 261
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 3:22 am
Car: 1992 240sx

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The box was supposed to reduce vibrations, worthless imo.

There is a good recent writeup on how to remove the box, and bleed.

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drft204
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 1:46 pm
Car: 98 VW GTI VR6, 89 240sx Coupe

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or you could always get one of these

Agency Power Auto to Manual Conversion Clutch Line for Nissan 240 > http://enjukuracing.com/produc..._id=1

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prizzom
Posts: 72
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:33 pm
Car: 95 240sx and FJ cruiser

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Yeah i read a write up on the line, on some other website on how to remove the extra line and have a line directly from master to slave. It seemed simple but i am afraid the clutch wouldn't feel the same, i'm afraid it would feel like a toyota truck clutch (hard).

thanks for you guys input.

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drft204
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 1:46 pm
Car: 98 VW GTI VR6, 89 240sx Coupe

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i have a set up like that but the clutch feels real soft. i don't know if thats how it suposed to be i've never driven a 240 before. i'm pretty sure its the same as the factory set up cuz its jus a hydraulic line.

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ShaunakaRichard
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 8:08 pm
Car: 92' 240sx sr20det Redtop

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I've bypassed the dampener and my clutch feels perfectly fine. Its not hard or easy, just perfect in my eyes. The only thing that dampener does is make it a pain in the *** to bleed the lines. Really prone to getting air stuck in there that you can't get out. Just bypass it. Real simple to do. Refer to the writeup mentioned before.

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prizzom
Posts: 72
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:33 pm
Car: 95 240sx and FJ cruiser

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Alright cool I'll do it Monday when i get to the shop. I got a nice brake line bender there.

Thanks everybody for the information, helped alot

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prizzom
Posts: 72
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:33 pm
Car: 95 240sx and FJ cruiser

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I took off that extra line and ran a line straight from master to slave. works great now. im suprise how stiff my performance clutch is, lol.

thanks NICO


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