Hey I am replacing my back right hub on my 91 240 w/o hicas and I need to know what all is involved as step by step as possible. I went to a junk yard that had a 240 and tried to get the hub off of that one and I got almost the whole spindle off except for the bolt underneith the axel on the spindle w/ a codder pin in it because the codder pin wouldn't come out. Then I couldn't figure out how to get the caliper off and one of the bolts heads broke off on it but I got the other one out. And then I didn't have a 36mm socket to get the axel nut off. Was I close?
Any help on how to do it right would be appreciated greatly.
ThanksJosh
Hub replacement help ASAP please
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AmoebAssassin
- Posts: 2424
- Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 7:11 am
- Car: 1991 Base fastback 5spd, black
Re: Hub replacement help ASAP please (ViperSRT10)
It's been a while since i poked around my rear suspension, and an FSM would be greatly helpful to you (There is a free FSM download link on this site, use the forum search to find it). That said, this is as step by step as i can get from memory.
-Break lug nuts loose on wheel, get car up in the air using a floor jack. Pay attention and find a proper jack point, or else you'll get bends in your frame rails and such, etc. etc. Remove wheel to expose rear suspension. Put the parking brake on or put the car in gear, and remove the cotter pin and the axle nut. The cotter pin should pull right out with some trying, and the axle nut will require some effort to remove, as it is on there tight. You will need a big socket. I dont remember the size exactly but its in the 30s. Once the axle nut is off the axle, release the parking brake for the next step.
-Remove caliper by removing the torque member that connects to the hub, and NOT by disconnecting the slide bolts. The torque member bolts are 17mm I believe. You don't have to remove the line, just make sure to support the caliper on something when you place it aside so you don't pull on the brake line.
-Looking at your car now, you should see the full swept area of the rotor. There should be nothing hanging over your rotor. If there is, you removed the caliper by disconnecting the 14mm slide bolts, and now you have to go and remove the two 17mm torque member bolts that hold the torque member over the rotor. If you don't see anything on the rotor, go ahead and take it off. If your car is old this will take some effort. Get a deadblow hammer/mallet and start beating the rim of the rotor and the rotor hat. Do not hit the friction surface of the rotor. After some banging/penetrating oil use, the rotor will come off. Pull it off the lugs.
-You should now see your wheel hub. There should be four bolts that hold the hub to the upright. Remove these, and free the hub from the upright. If you removed the axle nut in step 1, then the hub should pull right off. It may take some coaxing, again, if your car is old or rusty. In either case, the hub should pull right off..
-Slide the new hub on, making sure to line up the splines so you dont jam the hub onto the axle. Tighten the four bolts and torque them to spec. Slide the rotor on, and replace the caliper, again paying attention to torque specs. Put the parking brake on and replace the axle nut and cotter pin. Torque these again, or just wail on it, becuase the axle nut has to be tight. Replace wheel and lug nuts. Lower car, torque lug nuts. Go drive.
Make sure to pay attention to torque specs in the rear suspension, because there's lots of movement and stress in that region and yes, it is possible to overtighten bolts. Hope this helps.
-Break lug nuts loose on wheel, get car up in the air using a floor jack. Pay attention and find a proper jack point, or else you'll get bends in your frame rails and such, etc. etc. Remove wheel to expose rear suspension. Put the parking brake on or put the car in gear, and remove the cotter pin and the axle nut. The cotter pin should pull right out with some trying, and the axle nut will require some effort to remove, as it is on there tight. You will need a big socket. I dont remember the size exactly but its in the 30s. Once the axle nut is off the axle, release the parking brake for the next step.
-Remove caliper by removing the torque member that connects to the hub, and NOT by disconnecting the slide bolts. The torque member bolts are 17mm I believe. You don't have to remove the line, just make sure to support the caliper on something when you place it aside so you don't pull on the brake line.
-Looking at your car now, you should see the full swept area of the rotor. There should be nothing hanging over your rotor. If there is, you removed the caliper by disconnecting the 14mm slide bolts, and now you have to go and remove the two 17mm torque member bolts that hold the torque member over the rotor. If you don't see anything on the rotor, go ahead and take it off. If your car is old this will take some effort. Get a deadblow hammer/mallet and start beating the rim of the rotor and the rotor hat. Do not hit the friction surface of the rotor. After some banging/penetrating oil use, the rotor will come off. Pull it off the lugs.
-You should now see your wheel hub. There should be four bolts that hold the hub to the upright. Remove these, and free the hub from the upright. If you removed the axle nut in step 1, then the hub should pull right off. It may take some coaxing, again, if your car is old or rusty. In either case, the hub should pull right off..
-Slide the new hub on, making sure to line up the splines so you dont jam the hub onto the axle. Tighten the four bolts and torque them to spec. Slide the rotor on, and replace the caliper, again paying attention to torque specs. Put the parking brake on and replace the axle nut and cotter pin. Torque these again, or just wail on it, becuase the axle nut has to be tight. Replace wheel and lug nuts. Lower car, torque lug nuts. Go drive.
Make sure to pay attention to torque specs in the rear suspension, because there's lots of movement and stress in that region and yes, it is possible to overtighten bolts. Hope this helps.
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AmoebAssassin
- Posts: 2424
- Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 7:11 am
- Car: 1991 Base fastback 5spd, black
Re: (ViperSRT10)
There is no need to remove the upright, axle, or any suspension arms for a hub swap, as the hub is located outboard of the upright, and the arms and axles are located inboard of the upright.ViperSRT10 wrote:Thank you that helps a lot. I know about over tightening all to well. I have the fsm so that part is covered. I won't need to take off any of the arms to the spindle or pull out the axel will I?
Thank you so muchJosh
P.S. w00t for pretty black 91 fast back
You're welcome, and thanks for the compliments with regards to my car.
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AmoebAssassin
- Posts: 2424
- Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 7:11 am
- Car: 1991 Base fastback 5spd, black
Re: (ViperSRT10)
No problem, glad it worked out for you.