Hrmm...this isn't good...

[c-rad]

Looks like I need to get a new pickup screen.... :sigh: There goes another $50. Anyone have a used one they want to let go for cheap?

EDIT: let's hope nothing got sucked up there....

[originalsin]

it rly looks like a ka24de one would work...i got one if u wana try it/ search to see if it works, ill do liek 20 shipped

[c-rad]

Well, I might as well get a new one anyway since this is going into full rebuild status... broken oil screen equals this....



Hooray for me. At least the bearing took the brunt of it. Crank journal looks okay and is not scored to the touch, but I am going to have it looked at. Worst case scenario I get a remanned crank for $150 at autozone.

[boost_boy]

it rly looks like a ka24de one would work...i got one if u wana try it/ search to see if it works, ill do liek 20 shipped

KA24DE's will not work. You'll need one from a CA18DET as the U.S. pulsar's is different. I have an extra one, so let me know if you're interested.

Dee

[boost_boy]

Looks like I need to get a new pickup screen.... :sigh: There goes another $50. Anyone have a used one they want to let go for cheap?

EDIT: let's hope nothing got sucked up there....

I would tear it down and look forward to replacing the oil pump.

Dee

[NeedCAforS13]

pretty sure its in the plans Dee... he's been looking for a machine shop to clean up everything, and he's been shopping for oil pumps, bearings, gaskets, etc. Good luck Chris Keep a running tab of what this stuff costs, I have a spare motor in my garage that I'd like to rebuild with new parts and forged internals... one of these days!

Sean

[c-rad]

I would tear it down and look forward to replacing the oil pump.

Dee

Oil pump was getting replaced anyway. The entire motor is being torn down and thoroughly cleaned (ie: oil passages). I suspected something when the crank didn't turn very easily with the spark plugs out. Then when I pulled the pan and saw the screen, I knew the SHlT hit the fan. Removing the girdle and the main caps just removed all doubt. The journals on the crank really didn't look that bad though. Although its hard to determine wear by sight and feel. At this point I am just going to bring the short block to a machine shop and have them call me when it's ready to go.

So far I am looking at the following--Disassembly and cleaningGetting the crank turned and micropolishedNew main and rod bearingsCylinder hone

Worst case scenario on the crank, I get one from Advance Auto for $190. I'm not TOO upset because now I will have the peace of mind knowing that everything is in good shape when I get it back.

And Dee, I am interested in the pickup. Shoot me an email to [email protected] with how much you want for it shipped all the way up here to Daytona.

[OguraPowerTuning]

ouch that isnt good. my oil pan on my ca is pretty well dented but luckly it didnt touch the oil pickup. where do you get a new oil pan anyways sence i guess you will need one. i want to get one just to make everything nice and new looking.

[c-rad]

ouch that isnt good. my oil pan on my ca is pretty well dented but luckly it didnt touch the oil pickup. where do you get a new oil pan anyways sence i guess you will need one. i want to get one just to make everything nice and new looking.

That's the funny thing...the oil pan is perfect.

Either it originally had a dented oil pan and it was replaced, or I don't know. There is no way that just 'happens' without it being dropped or the like.

[boost_boy]

Oil pump was getting replaced anyway. The entire motor is being torn down and thoroughly cleaned (ie: oil passages). I suspected something when the crank didn't turn very easily with the spark plugs out. Then when I pulled the pan and saw the screen, I knew the SHlT hit the fan. Removing the girdle and the main caps just removed all doubt. The journals on the crank really didn't look that bad though. Although its hard to determine wear by sight and feel. At this point I am just going to bring the short block to a machine shop and have them call me when it's ready to go.

So far I am looking at the following--Disassembly and cleaningGetting the crank turned and micropolishedNew main and rod bearingsCylinder hone

Worst case scenario on the crank, I get one from Advance Auto for $190. I'm not TOO upset because now I will have the peace of mind knowing that everything is in good shape when I get it back.

And Dee, I am interested in the pickup. Shoot me an email to [email protected] with how much you want for it shipped all the way up here to Daytona.

Chris, I'll drop you an email! On another note and upon your rebuild, watch the legth of the clutch disk's hub and spline. I've seen a couple of CAs go through this issue with the crank and the bearings/caps catch a beat down. I could never figure it out until I was interviewed by my machinist and then I interviewed other CA owners who had this problem. All of them had a ceramic clutch in their car which tells me that in some cases, the disk was part if not the major problem.

Dee

[c-rad]

Chris, I'll drop you an email! On another note and upon your rebuild, watch the legth of the clutch disk's hub and spline. I've seen a couple of CAs go through this issue with the crank and the bearings/caps catch a beat down. I could never figure it out until I was interviewed by my machinist and then I interviewed other CA owners who had this problem. All of them had a ceramic clutch in their car which tells me that in some cases, the disk was part if not the major problem.

Dee

Well, I have a SPEC Stg 1 clutch so hopefully that won't be an issue for me. It's just a bottom of the barrell organic disc.

In other news, I just got off the phone with Advance Auto Parts. They sell a remanned crank that's already micropolished and comes with bearings for $190. Between getting the crank machined, micropolished, and ordering new bearings, it may be more cost effective to just go that route. What do you guys think?

[boost_boy]

Well, I have a SPEC Stg 1 clutch so hopefully that won't be an issue for me. It's just a bottom of the barrell organic disc.

In other news, I just got off the phone with Advance Auto Parts. They sell a remanned crank that's already micropolished and comes with bearings for $190. Between getting the crank machined, micropolished, and ordering new bearings, it may be more cost effective to just go that route. What do you guys think?

Go the AutoZone route! I'm pretty sure the bearings will be .25mm over because the crank is cut, so it will be smart to have the engine line bored and the rotating assembly balanced.

Dee

[c-rad]

Ok, I've got an update...

I spent about 30mins on the phone today with a machine shop discussing my options on the motor. I sent him some pics of the crank journals and whatnot. He said seeing as the cap isn't blue from being overheated (aka spun bearing) and the bearing tabs are still intact, he thinks the crank should need nothing more than a good micropolish. Although grinding may still be necessary. Either way, he said it's still an easy fix which is good to hear. He also called me back with prices on a bunch of stuff. He is a wholesaler for bearings and gasket sets so he gets them cheap. Here are the prices he quoted me on the parts and services...

Premium Piston Rings -- $53Full Gasket Set - $90Main Bearings - $28Rod Bearings - $18Crank grinding (if necessary) - $45Cleaning, honing, and assembly of the block bottom end -- case of beer

He said no matter what it should be less than $250 for everything to get me going again. He seems pretty reputable with the guys on the local message board I found him on and his prices seem good.

Oh, and Dee, still waiting on that email about the oil pickup! I would have emailed you but your email is MIA from the board....