HowTo: Replace AC Condenser (M56 - VK56VD)

Forum for Infiniti M37, M56 M35h Hybrid and Q70 owners.
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Ilya
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Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Figured I'd put this out there for anyone who was interested in knowing how to replace their AC condenser. I have a 2011 M56x, so at the least, this would be the same for any of the M56 variants and years or Q70 5.6's (I'd imagine).

My OEM condenser got hit by a rock or something evidently and gave up the ghost.

*Disclaimer* - I am not liable for anything you do to your car. This is just a basic walk through. Also, this is ONLY a walk through on how to replace the condenser. I will not be covering diagnosing AC issues or re-filling the AC system in this HowTo.

Task: Replace AC condenser on an M56 (VK56VD)
Time:60 minutes +/- going nice and easy
Tools/Supplies Needed:
  • Flat head screw driver
  • 10mm wrench or socket
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Pliers
  • AC Condenser
  • New O-Rings (may not be required - see note below)
  • A 2nd person to help you install the new condenser (optional)
I ended up buying a UAC CN3895PFC condenser from RockAuto.com which already had new o-rings, so I did not buy any new ones. If you get a condenser that does not come with new o-rings, you should get new ones instead of reusing the old ones.

Process:

1) Open the hood and remove the clips holding the intake snorkle unit to the car.

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2) You will be left with this:

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3) Undo the 10MM bolts holding the air filter cases to the car (both sides):

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4) Tilt the air filter cases up and out of the way like so...or flat out remove them.

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5) Remove these 10MM bolts to allow you the ability to move the cross bar a bit and give you clearance to remove the AC condenser:

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6) Using your pliers, undo these on both sides, this will allow the radiator and AC condenser some additional wiggle room:

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7) Remove this 10MM bolt from the right side of the AC condenser where the hoses come in from. This will give you additional wiggle room with the lines and allow you to move them a bit out of the way to remove the condenser:

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8) Unclip this harness on the left side of the condenser (from the drier) and unplug it from the drier:

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9) Remove this 10MM bolt holding in the AC lines:

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Ilya
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Posts: 9800
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Charlotte, NC
Contact:

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10) Now, with everything out of the way, push in the tab above the black bracket to release the AC condenser from its resting spot in the bracket. There is one on each side of the condenser. You may have to push and pull up slightly to release the condenser, but if all goes well, it should just lift and come right up. You may need the 2nd person at this point to help tug it a bit.

Image


11) Here is my old condenser and my new one:

Image


12) Once you have both condensers side by side, and if you purchased the UAC unit I did, you should take the time to swap the new o-rings from the new lines to your existing lines (if they are still good like mine were). If your lines are bad, you'll need to use the new ones provided. I did not tackle this, so unfortunately I cannot help you there.

Also, be sure to install the sensor from the AC drier from the old condenser onto the new one. Use the adjustable wrench to remove it from the old drier and install on the new drier. Again, be sure to use the new o-ring here if you purchased the UAC unit I did.

13) Installation is the reverse of removal. Be careful when re-installing the condenser not to damage and of the fins, etc.

Good work! You just saved yourself like $400 in parts and labor.

Larz
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Excellent DIY and mucho details as always fine sir! Cheers!

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Ilya
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Posts: 9800
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Charlotte, NC
Contact:

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*fist bump* AC is beautiful after a week still. Love it.

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Ilya
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Posts: 9800
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Charlotte, NC
Contact:

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Gotta do this again just a mere 3 years later. This time my left side is leaking, seems to be somewhere in the vicinity of the drier. Glad it's not a terribly hard job. Going OEM condenser this time instead of aftermarket eBay quality.

EDIT: Went with a UAC from Rock Auto. $500 after shipping for OEM isn't worth it when UAC is $150. I can get 3 UAC's for the price of one OEM...and if they last 2-3 years each time, I likely won't own the car by then lol.

EdBwoy
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Ilya, in case you haven't already completed the job, I have something to add for V8 owners.

If you are still running around with the original factory radiator, doing this job would be the perfect time to "might as well do that while I'm in there ".. It seems to be a matter of when, not if, the radiator starts leaking. This might affect both engines, but at least V8 radiators seem to be more prone to it.

I know how to maneuver a radiator around a condenser, but boy! It sure would have been much easier with the condenser out of the way.

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Ilya
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Posts: 9800
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20 pm
Car: 2011 M56x but I spend a lot of time on my 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. Former owner of a 2007 M35x. Also take care of my wife's 2016 QX60.
Location: Charlotte, NC
Contact:

Post

Hahah, too late :D. Already did the swap and AC is PUMPIN :D. But that is indeed good advice for us high mileage folk (I got 140kmi on mine now).


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