Just a little background information. I cracked my oil pan a few years ago (you can search for my old post) and used JB Weld to temporarily fix the crack in the oil pan from a speed bump. I have just done a head gasket replacement with the engine still in the car. I did remove the front bumper, radiator, condenser, and fan shroud to easily access the timing cover, but you can replace the oil pan without removing all of those parts. Removing the alternator and moving the AC compressor to the side would make it easier to get to the nut on top of the steering column plate but there should be enough room without removing those.

Sorry ahead of time, I did this job over a week ago and can't remember the exact bolt size but most of them were 10mm,12mm,14mm, and 17mm.

Tools you will need:
1.Engine Support bar + chains (Amazon and Harbor Freight has them for around $80)
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-c ... 96524.html

2.Socket Set, Universal swivel(U joint adapter), and a breaker bar

3. Engine support bracket (Forum member Edbwoy has some custom made brackets for sale)
But I found some that worked at a shop but Amazon has similar ones.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N ... UTF8&psc=1
The (4) bolts to fit in the cylinder heads is Part #31377-15U0C ($12 total)

4. Oil Pan cost anywhere from $250-$350 from Infiniti may be able to find cheaper elsewhere.

5. RTV Ultra Grey High Temp ( can buy at any auto parts store).

6. (2) o-rings for oil pump/filter Part # 15066-AR000

7. gasket for oil pump tube. Part Number: 15053-31U00

Step 1.
Put the car on jack stands and drain the oil of course.

Step 2.
Mount the engine lift brackets. The passenger side has mounting holes near the rear of the cylinder head and the driver side mounts toward the front of the cylinder head. If you have the valve covers still installed be careful with the brackets and chain connect. You do not want to crack a valve cover.

Step 3.
Install the Engine support bar and connect the chains to the support brackets.

Step 4.
Remove the bottom nut of both motor mounts and the transmission mount.

Step 5.
Remove the bolts to the black steering rack/column plate. It covers the majority of the middle part of the oil pan and will make it easier to access oil pan bolts when removed. 2 of the larger bolts have a nut on top that may spend as you loosen from the bottom. You will need to squeeze in with another wrench or socket to keep it from spinning. I had the alternator and A/C compressor removed so it made it easier but still doable with them installed. Once the plate is removed the steering rack will hang down. I used a block of wood near the tire to prop it up until I was finished with the oil pan.

Step 6.
Disconnect the power steering harness from the oil pan. It has 2 bolts on the passenger side of the pan, 1 bolt on the front, and 1 bolt on the driver side holding the black U-shaped harness. You may want to remove the tensioner and oil pressure sensor from the pan while on the car also.

Step 7.
Then take a jack with a block of wood on top and raise the engine from the oil pan. As you raise it a few inches, tighten the chain from the support bar. When the engine mounts are barely out of their housing, this should be high enough. You just need enough clearance to remove the pan and easily reinstall it.

Step 8.
Remove the bolts around the oil pan. There will be 4 larger bolts that connect to the transmission on the bottom rear. I can't remember if they were 14 mm or 17mm. There are also 2 bolts inside of the flywheel square plate. The plate is held on by 1 short bolt. After the plate is removed you will have access to the 2 10 mm bolts. You may need a long extension and a U-joint adapter to be able to easily access it. Once all of the bolts are removed you will be able to pry the oil pan down. The RTV was holding on pretty strong but I was able to use a small painter's crowbar to remove the oil pan. Once the oil pan is loose you will need to remove the 3 bolts holding the oil pump tube so it will drop in the pan. This should give you enough clearance to remove the pan.

Step 9.
Replace the 2 O-rings that are in the block near the front right (driver) side. Both same size and near the oil filter side of the block.

Step 10.
Apply RTV to the mid and rear section of the pan. Leave the front clean for now if you are doing this with the engine in the car.
Place to oil pump tube inside the pan and carefully maneuver the pan in place. Install the 3 bolts to the oil pump tube and apply RTV on the rest of the oil pan. If you try and install the tube first, you won't have enough clearance to install the pan. Then use the guide pins to put the oil pan in place and start bolting the oil pan back together. Reverse the steps of disassembly.

Sorry I didn't record a video or take pictures. I think anyone that has some basic experience working on their car can do this job. I would say if you take your time it would take about 3 to 4 hours to remove the oil pan. A shop quoted me $1800 because they say you have to remove the engine which is not true. I paid around $400--$420 to do it myself. If I have time I will try and get the exact bolt sizes and maybe take a picture of some of the brackets, harnesses, and bolt locations.

Also, shout out to Edbwoy for his Youtube videos and his willingness to answer all the questions I've had through my oil pan and head gasket process.

Thanks for posting this! I've updated the thread title a bit so it sounds like less of a question and more of a guide.

Finally had time to update with pictures of the bolt locations and sizes.

I'm a noob in this forum in terms of posting and the oil pan removal article s great instruction, i followed it and was able to replace the pan in my 2006 m45. I did not replace the. Drop tube, just cleaned it up. Now I'm getting a knock and oil light but whenever I brake hard or perform a u-turn the light goes out and the knock goes away for a short time, then returns. Recycled the motor oil and changed the oil filter again because of potential dirt n the pan when I installed it. Now I'm supiciousof the drop tube, or pickup tube, whatever its. Is anyone familiar with this knock and light behavior?