How would I unmold a molded body kit

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tdoolin
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2009 3:47 pm
Car: 1997 Kouki Sr20det

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My 97 has molded sides, fenders, and rear bumper. Some of the paint is cracking on the rear bumper and was wondering how I go about removing a molded kit.



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AZhitman
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
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You're looking at a big job.

I think you'd be better off grinding out the cracked areas, using the proper filler (something more flexible) and re-shooting the repaired areas with paint with a flex agent added (such as what they use on urethane bumpers).

To remove the whole thing is going to involve grinding down through the filler, finding the seams, determining how it was attached, cutting around (or through) the attachment points, and smoothing / re-spraying the whole car.

Even then, some of the body lines will be wavy afterwards, I'm sure.

Not a bad looking ride...

tdoolin
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2009 3:47 pm
Car: 1997 Kouki Sr20det

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Thanks, I'm leanning towards just shaving the cracked areas. And just for future reference if i was to hit something on any of the molded areas to replace the damaged body pannel would I then be forced to go the route of finding the seams and ripping the damaged parts off nd having to respray the whole thing. Or is there an easier way for that too?

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AZhitman
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
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Yeah, if it's FRP (fiberglass-reinforced plastic), any kind of bodywork is going to be a holy mess.

Cracks aren't surprising - Someone's taken a urethane or FRP bumper, molded it to metal, with a third material bridging the gap. Each one expands / contracts with temperature at different rates, and each one flexes a little differently. The gaps are there to ensure nothing cracks.

Looks great, but there's a reason molded-in bodykits are a no-no... Some parts are meant to flex, some aren't!

Keep us posted and let us know how it turns out - and don't hit anything!

tdoolin
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2009 3:47 pm
Car: 1997 Kouki Sr20det

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Yea I bought it with the molded kit. Thanks for the tips very helpful. I'll try not to hit any thing.

liquid_cool
Posts: 1700
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2008 3:02 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect

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AZhitman: That was a lesson in body what nots man..thanks..i never knew that..you should expand on body kits..like in there own area..if there is a area for someone to post..let me say sorry in advance..i havent found it yet..lol..i guess you can learn still at my old age ..thanks again for the info.

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AZhitman
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Posts: 54542
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the Internet.


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