How/What Wax/Polish do you use?

[ProverbPsalms]

Hey Guys,

I was wondering whats some of your favorite products to wax/polish their M's?

I got NU Finish, and I had a terrible experience with it, i have many small white spots that appear to have burnt through the clear coat or paint, I am pretty upset now.

I was wondering whats the best way to cleaned and wax and protect their vehicles paint?

[Larz]

This question has been asked and answered many times in the forum. However, as I just started doing mine (twice yearly) I will tell you how / what I am using. Making a car shine is like painting. The MOST important part is the prep. Even if you use a $250/bottle of wax, you are wasting your time and will get crap results unless the surface is properly prepared. Everything I use on my care comes from Griot's garage, but there are many great product lines out there. To do this properly will take a significant investment, but your car IS a significant investment and so should it's protection be. I will list my products at the end.

PREP:
Do this in your garage, under a tent roof, or at least at a time of day when the sun isn't beating down on the surface. Whether you use a machine or not, this will take the better part of a day to complete, but your car will look better than it did in the showroom when you finish.
1) loosen and remove any surface dirt, sand, etc with a hose. Spray the car thoroughly and do NOT use a pressure washer.
2) while the car is wet, apply car wash with a microfiber mit / cloth. do NOT use heavy pressure or a wash that contains a wax, sealant, or any other additives - just a good quality car wash solution.
3) after each major section, rinse and wring out your mit / towel to remove dirt before using it on the next section.
3) thoroughly dry the car with a clean microfiber towel or chamois, rinsing it between sections same as the wash cloth.
4) buy 2-3 clay bars and watch a video on you tube to learn how to use them properly.
5) clay the car with a detailing spray (meguiars, etc) - NOT water. If you drop the clay on the floor or ground, toss it! It has been ruined.
Now the surface has been thoroughly cleaned, loose particles, road grime, and contaminants have been removed. The surface should feel extremely smooth. On to the second step.

POLISH:
I highly recommend a random orbital buffer. do NOT use the $30 machines at the parts shop. They are worthless, cause scratches, and damage the surface. Use a 'random orbital' machine or do this by hamd with the appropriate applicator.
1) Using a polish (not wax), apply it to one medium section at a time, then remove it with a towel designed for polish removal or at least a high quality microfiber towel.
2) continue until the entire car has been polished. If there is a section that needs a second treatment, do it so the surface appears uniform all over. Don't worry about polishing the clear coat away, or burning the surface. If you use a random orbital, that simply won't happen.
Now, your surface is free, smooth, and ready to absorb a good quality wax. On to the final step.

WAX:
Some important info: NEVER use cheap parts store sealants that promise a year of protection. Thees products will likely seal the surface, prevent the surface from breathing, and can permanently damage the clear coat. Suffice to say that if you buy a $10 wax, you will get a $10 quality and performance.
1) Use a wax that has a significant amount of 'pure carnuba'. Carnuba is like a steel shield that still allows the surface to breath. Apply the wax VERY lightly. The surface will only accept a certain amount of wax - anything over that amount will be a waste and make removal and buffing a very difficult chore.
2) apply and remove/ buff in small sections (one fender, 1/4 of the roof, etc). Use high quality cloth - extra thick microfiber for example and turn the cloth frequently and change towels as you proceed. I use at least 4 cloths - one for the roof and trunk, one for the hood and bumpers, one for left side panels, one for right side panels.

If you spend a day doing this, you will be floored by the results. It should last about 4-6 months and you will be protecting the surface in addition to just shining it.

Products:
I use only Griot's Garage. Anyone as anal as I am about doing this will likely have a favorite company as well.
https://www.griotsgarage.com/ for videos on how to use these products
for washing: Griot's Car Wash
for clay bar: Griot's Clay, Speed Shine for lubricant + PFM detailing towels
for polish: Griot's Boss Correcting Cream + orange foam correcting pad
for wax: Griot's Best Of Show Wax + red foam waxing pad

Tools:
Griot's random orbital 6" model and 3" model (3" model isn't required - i just like it for smaller areas like the bumpers, etc)
microfiber polish removal cloths
dual weave wax removal cloths
cotton buffing cloths

I cannot tell you how many people compliment me on the finish of my car. It out-shines brand new cars at the dealer and they are floored when I tell them the car is 7 years old and has not been garage kept.

[beachbum718]

I use to waste my time and money on all these items listed above. But I used Wolfgang paint sealant then fusions wax to seal in the shine. best in the bizz.not a bad route to go but there are much better things available.plus you have to wax every 2 to 3 months or so to maintain shine.

I woke up and saw the future of detailing.

i myself have never gone to a car wash with my car.

i only do foam gun baths and 2 bucket wash systems.

so I went the best route. 9h ceramic pro.

the following suggestion 9h pro.follow all the steps of claying then polishing and waxing. then apply gods gift to cars. Ceramic coating.
water beads off for years and years.its ridiculous how great it is.no swirls ,no dull shine.its like your car is dipped in candy.tar,slides off bird s*** slides off.rains blows off.crack an egg on it.it will roll off.
They coat your wheels and your brake calipers.also interior...its insane....

packages range from 1100 to 3000k
with lifetime warranty.like mine I go back every 6 months for check up and inspection and my guys fixes any problems if any appear.
I'm almost one year in on my 9h and its shining like crazy still.make sure you look for a licensed detailer in 9h ceramic.

heres a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFm7gOwM9iU


Heres a cell pic.my car is flawless no swirls or anything!!!

[mrnix]

Larz, good info.

Since I got my M37 last year, I have gotten into Chemical Guys products. I use the 2 bucket / grit guard method to wash, along with their soap, or some Meguiar's I have on had. to shine the M, I tried a product called "Black Light" and was amazed by it.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-GA ... mical+guys

After the black light glaze, I put on a coat of Carnauba wax (I have CG's Butter Wet, as well as some Meguiar's ultimate, I think) and have been pleased with how well the car looks since then. My M is Malbec Black, so other colors may vary.

[Larz]

Chemical Guys are brilliant. You should be getting an amazing finish with their products. Makes sense to use a wax designed for black cars. Great idea.

[Dejaclue]

Highly recommend clay baring before you wax. Bought my 2011 M37s last month and have been obsessed with keeping it looking clean. I used mothers carnuba wax and found out about chemical guys black light last week. My M is Malbec so I will be purchasing that soon.

[mrnix]

Highly recommend clay baring before you wax. Bought my 2011 M37s last month and have been obsessed with keeping it looking clean. I used mothers carnuba wax and found out about chemical guys black light last week. My M is Malbec so I will be purchasing that soon.

you won't be disappointed with the black light on your malbec. I was pleasantly surprised the first time I put it on.