How trusting are you guys of Eagle rods?

[Booztd 3]

Haven't seen a whole lot of "big power" builds going on lately (well I've seen a few but very few tested/proven/running) setups

Tax return time is coming and I've got a little itch to go inside the engine and do some work. Ideally I'd like to:

1. Upgrade Rods
2. Upgrade Pistons
3. Main Studs
4. Freshen up bearings
5. ID200 Injectors
6. Crank Collar
7. New OEM Oil Pump

The top end has very mild work done to it, and I'd like to really minimize downtime. Theres nothing wrong with my current engine so I'll just be sticking with stock bore. I've got the fuel system to support 1000rwhp (minus the injectors) however I doubt I'll go for anything more than 800-900 on E85

There's a huge price gap between Eagle Rods and the competition. I've had really good luck with CP pistons lately so I'll stick with those, in addition to OEM Nissan bearings.

I've already made 720rwhp on a mustang dyno so I know the rest of the setup is worthy....(well the clutch might wince at this power)

Cliff Notes - would you guys trust Eagles for an 800-900rwhp setup?

[Booztd 3]

And just for fun....this was some time late last year

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeU5-CqFY7I[/youtube]

[240z4u]

Interesting question. I would like to know this as well. Knowing that the OEM rb rod bolts can be a weak point has had me considering doing a rod upgrade and Eagle is the only thing affordable to me nowadays.

Edit; What pistons do you have in there right now?

[Booztd 3]

Interesting question. I would like to know this as well. Knowing that the OEM rb rod bolts can be a weak point has had me considering doing a rod upgrade and Eagle is the only thing affordable to me nowadays.

Edit; What pistons do you have in there right now?

The bottom end is ALL STOCK BABY

Only thing I have done up top is ARP Head Studs, Tomei HG, and Tomei Type A cams....thats it

[240z4u]

It's pretty amazing the abuse these motors will take. I suspect the 26 is a bit more stout than the 25. You aren't the only one who has made good power numbers on a stock motor, makes me second guess my desire to build a shortblock honestly.

Regardless, it's cool to see you messing with the motor again. Not much going on in this forum lately of any real interest. I googled the Eagle rods and came up with absolutely nothing conclusive at all.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

[nismoplsr]

And just for fun....this was some time late last year

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeU5-CqFY7I[youtube]

Wicked. What was your 60' on that run? ET?

I vaguely remembering that Eagle rods are made in China with questionable quality control. I may have read that on MotoIQ. I would to more research before saving a few bucks.

[Booztd 3]

I'm pretty sure that was a high 1.40 or a low 1.50, ET was a 10.40

I'm still on the fence about whether or not I want to tinker with it, I'm a bit fan of not mucking with stuff when it isnt broke. This engine has treated me well, and while I'm confident in my mechanical abilities I'd hate to goof something up on the bottom end and ruin my fun for the year. I have alot of other things I'd like to do too (build a shed, refinish my basement, put wheels on my 335i, etc) so I suppose as the time comes closer we'll see what makes it to the top of the pecking order....

As far as the rod quality goes, SCAT and Eagle rods are manufactured in China, but the Eagle rods come to the USA for finishing work and clearance checking. I'm not sure on the SCAT rods however

[RRRRB]

Eagle rates there RB rods to 1000hp, I have personally broken an eagle rod in my honda, however I suspect an over used rod bolt as the cause of failure.

Honestly im sure they would be fine as long as your not reving to the moon. I have eagles in my rb but don't plan ok going over what you have already done power wise... There are lots of people making big power on them though

If you plan on really reving this new motor like 9k or more I'd be probably look into something higher end...

[Darius]

What are the price differences between Eagle and Spool? I have only heard good things about Spool and I remember their pricing being competitive. I don't have any first-hand experience with either as I used the stock RB26 rods in my RB25. My comment is just based on what I have read over the years.

And I think you might need to go bigger than ID200's jk

[ItzGenX]

Here's a little discussion of guys comparing the rods and quality. http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/17759-m ... beams.html

I personally have some Manley Turbo Tuff rods in mine. I haven't started her yet, but man, these rods are light and beefy looking. When comparing the economy rods, I would probably select the brian crower rods first, manley second, and eagle dead last. The BC rods cost a little more at around $630, but obviously, they are worth it. The Manley rods have great machining and finish with a very very close balance weight as a rod set, and they cost around the same as a set of eagles.

My machinist hates eagle rods, and he is the best machinist in town. They are usually not balanced close enough, big end bores sometimes aren't round enough, and the oiling hole in the small end bushing sometimes doesn't line up with the hole in the rod itself. That's what he has told me a while back when I dropped off my bottom end so he could do my crank collar and balanced the rotating assembly.

[Booztd 3]

Thanks for the input so far guys

I actually called BC and talked to Brian today, as they have several different rod selections. The H beam line offers a little weight savings, with the option of two different rod bolts (APR 2000 vs ARP 625) - 625's being the stronger of the two. In my case since I primarily drag race the car he said the I beam is maybe my best option because its a little heavier (tougher) than the H beams, and I could get away with the ARP 2000 bolts. However, when looking at the price of the I beams with the ARP 2000's, we still get into the 1000 dollar range for price....

[Booztd 3]

What are the price differences between Eagle and Spool? I have only heard good things about Spool and I remember their pricing being competitive. I don't have any first-hand experience with either as I used the stock RB26 rods in my RB25. My comment is just based on what I have read over the years.

And I think you might need to go bigger than ID200's jk

Spool H beams are $630 direct from Spool, the I Beams are $695. Both come with ARP 2000 fasteners

I see on ebay you can pick up a set of eagle H Beams for $400

And I hope to god 2000's would be enough. We're hitting mid 90 duty cycles on my 1000's I currently have, so Hopefully I could squeeze a few hundred more HP out of the 2000's, lol

[LeD ippen]

Thanks for the input so far guys

I actually called BC and talked to Brian today, as they have several different rod selections. The H beam line offers a little weight savings, with the option of two different rod bolts (APR 2000 vs ARP 625) - 625's being the stronger of the two. In my case since I primarily drag race the car he said the I beam is maybe my best option because its a little heavier (tougher) than the H beams, and I could get away with the ARP 2000 bolts. However, when looking at the price of the I beams with the ARP 2000's, we still get into the 1000 dollar range for price....

tbh i think the best would be to get the best fastener you can get and good quality rod. usually when i see a motor pop or spin a rod it always the rod bolt stretching

[LeD ippen]

seeing the quality difference between eagle manley pauter and bc rod

makes me never want to buy eagles

when manley are better for a little more

[placham]

Booztd 3- duno bout rods but I do love me some "The Doors" Jim Morrison ^ in your video, are you from Illinois, spy ILL plates on silver Pontiac.

[RRRRB]

The stronger ARP rod bolts are actually a higher maint peice, the material its made out of is made for engines that get torn down all the time, i guess they corrode easily.. Thats what an ARP rep told me when i had a conversation with them about rod bolt usage/life. He said its not a good idea in a street car

[Booztd 3]

The stronger ARP rod bolts are actually a higher maint peice, the material its made out of is made for engines that get torn down all the time, i guess they corrode easily.. Thats what an ARP rep told me when i had a conversation with them about rod bolt usage/life. He said its not a good idea in a street car

I was curious what the difference was aside from tensile strength. Crower's strong recommendation was that I go with the I-Beams with the ARP 2000's