Post by
ddgsxr504 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/ddgsxr504-u24314.html
Thu Oct 19, 2006 6:39 am
I am quite surprised at how many people have never done this or know how to do it, I guess we all have to start somewhere.
If you look at the transmission from the driver's side underneath your car you will see 2 different plugs. One is located on the side of the transmission and the other is located on the bottom a little further back.
Each one of these "plugs" have a 1/2" square fitting, meaning to get them out you will need a 1/2" ratchet or better yet a breaker bar. Instead of putting a socket on which ever one you choose you just insert the square head into the plug and remove them, remember righty tighty/ lefty loosey.
Now what you want to do is remove the plug on the bottom first and let the gear oil drain out. It is better to do this when the car has been driven to operating temp so you can flush out all the crap since the oil is hot and more fluid. The drain plug has a magnet on it. Check this to make sure it doesn't have any large chunks of metal which would signify internal damage. Metal shavings are common and nothing to worry about, once you verify this make sure to clean the magnet off. Once the oil has drained re-insert the plug making sure you don't over tighten it.
Next is the filler hole located in the driver side, the one we talked about earlier. This is the fill hole, you can also fill it through the shifter hole by removing the shifter but will require two people to do this so that one can fill the transmission from inside the car and the other can watch the fill hole to see when fluid starts coming out.
If you choose to fill your transmission from the fill hole on the side you will need a pump that attaches to the gear oil bottle which can be found in any automotive parts store for relatively cheap. Depending on what route you go you then fill the transmission until oil starts to seep out of the hole which means it's filled to the correct level. As soon as you see oil start to come out of the fill hole stop filling and quickly re-insert the fill hole plug. The rear diff works the same way but a little harder to get to.
You should replace the transmission and rear diff fluid at the same time and this should be done every 10-12,000 miles, basically every 4th oil change if you happen to change your oil every 3000 miles instead of 7500 like the owner's manual suggests.
Your transmission hold roughly 2.75 quarts of gear oil and the rear diff is about 1.75.
Recommended fluid weight is 75W/90 for the transmission and 80W/90 for the rear diff but you can go slightly higher or lower depepnding on your needs.
The best fluids to use are; Penzoil syncromesh, GM syncromesh, Redline MT-90, Royal Purple or anything that is GL-4 compatible. GL-5 wrecks havoc on our older transmissions by eating away at the yellow metals (synchros) causing rough shifting, grinding, and eventually transmission failure. Check the back of the bottle to make sure before you decide to buy it.
I have heard that LUCAS oil is good too but right now they are recalling all their gear oil for issues with it which is probably why you couldn't find any.
I am actaully going to do my transmission/diff this weekend and I went with Royal Purple since it's all I could find after trolling like 6 different parts stores. I went with 75W/90 for the transmission and 75W/140 for the rear diff.
I am attaching a pic that may hopefully help you out.
MODS: Can we possible make this a sticky or put it on d!ck's write up page?