How to unglaze a new clutch?

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Luderacer14
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Car: 96 240sx

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Ok, i put about 100 miles on my new fidanza flywheel and Spec stage 4 6 puck clutch, just got my car running and had to WOT, it pulled like a maniac, than i shifted and clutch pedal died and went totally soggy. I already replaced my slave. Getting my MC tomorrow. I can still drive it but when boost kicks it at 3000rpm, it just slips. The pedal still feels super soggy. Is there anyway to unglaze this? Or am i screwed!!!!


naed240sx
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Why would you do that?

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Luderacer14
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naed240sx wrote:Why would you do that?
l could'int resist, it's been 10 months since i got my car running. Had to save some money and put everything in myself. Now that it runs again, i had to see what it had and if everything was running right.

KATwo40
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Car: 1993 240sx KA-T

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100 miles should be plenty of break-in for a new clutch. Besides, I don't think you did anything that wouldn't be considered normal driving. Either the clutch holds or it doesn't.

Remember, break-in for a clutch (aside from ceramic units) is just like brakes. You're only transfering a layer of clutch material from the clutch to the pressure plate, to achieve the best frictional surface (clutch material on clutch material, as opposed to clutch material on metal).

I think your spongy pedal is in the hydraulic system, not the clutch itself.

Either way, if it's still slipping after the MC installation, drive it easily for another 100mi or so and see what happens. But I don't think it should take that long.

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Luderacer14
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AWESOME! You made my day. I'm gonna drive it soft than for another 400 miles. It was weird, it just went limp. I shift as softly as possible. I did'int think it would do any harm since i was in gear already you know. Thxs, and hopefully, my clutch gets better. Actually, today it got a tad bit stiffer.Thxs.

lrb_2000
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I had to adjust mine like crazy when I first installed it.. have you tried that?

1WheelWonder
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Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx

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I would agree that it's probally a hydraulic issues of sorts, try to bleed it, but if you have that weird little hard to describe box thing that connects to you slave cylinder clutch line I would bypass it because it's known to make clutch bleeding a pain in the *** due to it storing air bubbles.

KATwo40
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^^^TOTALLY AGREE!

Delete the clutch loop. It's a PITA to deal with, and life is so much better without it.

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S14tat
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yeah, the clutch dampener box blows. its so useless and it makes bleeding the clutch a *****.

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jdm_master_X
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i made the mistake of placing a flywheel that wasnt properly resurfaced back into my car with a new exedy clutch. i have only 50 miles on the break-in, but hopefully the car will start to bite the flywheel with softer driving. it slips at WOT too. haha

make sure you dont have a broken pivot too. that can make things bad on engagement.

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Luderacer14
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Car: 96 240sx

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That box was actually removed along time ago. The clutch was stiff, than it just when limp when i disengaged it at 7000 rpm. Felt like the pressure plate did'int spring back, like it go stuck or something. Ohwell, i'm replacing my whole hydralic system just in case. Now, it's beginning to return back to normal after driving it very softy. I got a 6 puck, so it's either on or off.

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Luderacer14
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Car: 96 240sx

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Hey guys, i followed your advice and now it grips all the way to 15 psi and 7000. Awesome, i thought my clutch was jacked up for a sec. But i put 500 miles of very soft driving into it and i guess thats all it needed.

KATwo40
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Gratz!


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