How to rotate the crank?

[redamnavit]

I feel pretty stupid with this question, but here goes. I just replaced my bottom end bearings, bolted the crank back in and I'm about to replace the timing belt. How do I rotate the crank to TDC? I tried screwing in the crank pulley bolt but I got worried I was just going to overtorque it when it kept going in. Should I stack some washers under it to bottom it out? Or toss a bolt into the hole in the crank to do the same thing? Or is there another method? Is the fit on a fresh crank and bearings supposed to be this tight? They're all lubed up, so its not a dry fit.

[RMiller]

I rotated it by rotating the flywheel by hand. It was pretty hard, but you can do it. I seriously doubt you will overtorque the crank pulley bolt by rotating it that way, though.

[redamnavit]

The engine's up on a stand, so no flywheel bolted on just yet. I suppose I could wait until I get it off the stand...

[KaZ (VaBch)]

put the front crank bolt in and torque it around... you won't overtorque it... but if you have strong resistance stop turning... you'll mess up the crank/bearings before you overtorque the bolt

[biosehnsucht]

or just slap the pully on (not bolting, just slip it over the snout) and rotate it

[float_6969]

How did you lube the bearings? Did you use assembly grease? If so, take it back apart and use a good heavy weight (non-synthetic) motor oil instead. I am NOT a big fan of assembly lube at all. I use a 50w if I can find it, otherwise a 40w will do. Don't use a multivcosity oil either (10w-30) just straight weights.

[biosehnsucht]

BAH, I'm using redline assy lube, no matter what float says. I've got plenty of other people saying its perfectly fine/better. Good assy lube or good heavy weight oil, whatever.

[redamnavit]

BAH, I'm using redline assy lube, no matter what float says. I've got plenty of other people saying its perfectly fine/better. Good assy lube or good heavy weight oil, whatever.

I used the same. When I asked around about what to use I got such interesting suggestions as vaseline (from the Nissan dealership no less) and lithium grease thinned with motor oil (from Pep Boys). I think the assembly lube is fine. As for the crank, I'm gonna buy a handful of washers tomorrow and try it that way.

[biosehnsucht]

dude just use the pullyw/o the bolt doesn't have to be on all the way or just use the bolt itself, you won't overtighten it.. unless you didn't lube it up well enough haha

[Nunook]

I had to rotate my crank this mornin and all i did was slap the pulley on alittle, I put the bolt on alittle just in case i dropped the pulley(i was in an uncomfortable position) and turned the dam thing by hand.

[redamnavit]

I tried the pulley and torquing the crank bolt down, but things would not move. I pulled off the oil pan and loosened the rod and main bolts. Torqued down the rod bolts and the crank turned fine. Barely hand-tightened the main bolts and it wouldn't budge. I'm pretty sure I was sent the wrong main bearings. Which isn't too surprising, since I wasn't asked what sizes my block was stamped with when I ordered the crank and bearings. Off to the dealership...

[cortina-mk1]

the crank should spin freely without rods connected.if it never.. then you have a clearance problemand i would disassmble and re-check

[redamnavit]

the crank should spin freely without rods connected.if it never.. then you have a clearance problemand i would disassmble and re-check

Sorry, let me clarify. It spun freely with everything disconnected, and spun freely with just the rods attached and torqued down. It wouldn't turn at all with the main caps hand-tightened down. Hence I believe my new main bearings are the wrong size.