How To: Replacing Rear Shocks and Springs

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NickD85
Posts: 238
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:44 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti Qx4

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Not sure if anyone's done a write up on this yet, but I thought I'd put up some pics and stuff to help those looking to fix an all too common problem...

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You'll need at least two Jacks, Jackstands, 21mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, & 10mm sockets, and your new parts. If you're planning on replacing the shocks or springs, I'd definitely recommend replacing both shocks and springs at the same time, while you're at it. Like many other R50's of 150k+ miles, my springs and shocks were shot, and the vehicle bottomed out on the slightest of bumps, whenever cargo or passengers were in the back. See the stickied "Suspension Lifts 101" for parts.

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First, Jack the car up. You need to do so from the frame, and not the rear axle, as you would to change a tire. Further, the car must be lifted quite high. From the farthest back point on the frame, I jacked the car to the full extent of my jack's capability, with the jack and jackstand sitting on a 2x6, laid flat. This was just enough to get the springs out. I used a hydraulic pallet lifter to independently raise and lower the axle while working, but a third jack would also work. With the car lifted so precariously, be sure to firmly block the front wheels. Remember, the e-brake doesn't do anything up there.

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After removing the wheels, the shocks can be unbolted by removing two easily accessed bolts. You'll likely need a breaker bar or impact wrench.

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The above two pictures illustrate two key steps that must be taken before dropping the axle. The brake lines, and linkage shown must be freed up. There
are a number of places to disconnect these two components, I've pictured the locations that I chose. There is also a third disconnection that must be made- a small vacuum hose on the top of the differential.

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The axle can now be lowered enough to get the springs out. Be careful; lower it too much and you could still damage the brake lines, if you haven't disconnected them entirely.

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You should now be able to install you're new springs. I found it necessary to compress the right side spring very slightly, as the anti sway bar seemed to prevent the passenger side of the axle from dropping as far as the driver side.

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Next come the shocks, which should go in without difficulty, after jacking up the rear axle. Reconnect the vacuum hose, brake lines, and linkage. Put those wheels back on, lower her down, and you should be good to go, and hopefully sitting a little higher.


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donald
Posts: 282
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:44 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4 (RIP, 2011)
2010 Pathfinder LE
Location: Elk Grove, CA

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Just to clarify - when you drop your rear axle, is it COMPLETELY loose?
I'm trying to think of what I can use at home (no pallet jack ;) ) to hold and balance the rear axle...

by the way - is it as easy as your write up looks? :mike
thanks and nice work on the write-up. I look to do my suspension in the very near future.

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NickD85
Posts: 238
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:44 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti Qx4

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This job is definitely not beyond the scope of someone relatively adept at using a wrench. To independently raise and lower the axle, you can just use another jack, or two (one on each side of the axle ideally) The axle isn't completely unrestrained, still being attached to the frame by a number of components (including the trailing arms and anti sway bar). I removed only what was necessary to get the springs out. I didn't even disconnect the brake lines, merely unbolted one bracket holding them in place. Careful though, keep an eye on things as you lower the axle, making sure that you didn't forget anything that might be damaged if it ends up bearing the full weight of things. It would be very easy to bend or break a brake line here.

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miamiheat3332
Posts: 1211
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 12:43 pm
Car: 2002 Nissan Pathfinder SE - 2006 BMW X5 4.8is - 2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport

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Wow you definetly did too many steps if you had to disconnect vaccum hoses, and brake lines and such, it may have made it easier but for mine i just used a spring compressor a little, then i used a long 2x4 to push on the axle off the frame of the car, to make the side im working on go down, took out the spring, put in the other one, rinse and repeat on the other side.

Glad you got it done though, did you get lift springs in the back? Alot looks like your underbody could use a wash, and spray it down with the black undercoat so it looks brand new and stops the rust :biggrin: , rust will defentily kill a pathy/qx4 before anything else.

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NickD85
Posts: 238
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:44 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti Qx4

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I didn't actually disconnect the brake lines, just unbolted one of the fittings that holds them in place. These steps weren't absolutely necessary, (you can just compress the springs a bit and slip them in), however, I needed to drill and tap the axle to accept the different bump-stops that I put in. The axle needed to be dropped extra low to get the drill in there. So donald, If you have a spring compressor, miamiheat is right... you can get away with just unbolting the shocks and dropping the axle until it is caught by the links that I pictured. The links prevent the axle from dropping too low, and potentially damaging other components.

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donald
Posts: 282
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:44 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4 (RIP, 2011)
2010 Pathfinder LE
Location: Elk Grove, CA

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good to know! thanks guys!

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donald
Posts: 282
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:44 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4 (RIP, 2011)
2010 Pathfinder LE
Location: Elk Grove, CA

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I just finished my suspension install this past weekend with my brother. :dblthumb:
Overall, the front and back R&R was pretty easy and straight forward. Nothing too outlandish.

This write up helped me a bit, and like you mentioned later, I didn't have to disconnect any lines or hoses to do this... all except for the vacuum hose(?) atop the rear axle "pumpkin".

Anyway, i was just writing in to mention a 1 thing in regards to the passenger (right) side spring removal:
1. Yes, the driver side spring was relatively simple to get out. The passenger side spring was not-so-bad. We did it without a spring compressor. What we did was gradually apply force down on the brake drum. My brother used his foot and slowly forced the brake drum down as I wiggled and squeezed the spring out. Evenwhile we pressed the right side down some a bit further, removal wasn't as easy as the left side spring, so don't count on it being a cinch. You'll still need a little bit of power to hand-comparess that spring up and squeeze it over the hump that holds the spring on top of the rear axle.

I'd say doing just the rears, it took us maybe 1.5-effective-hours.
This was the first time doing anything related to suspension, so we took our time to make sure we're disconnecting the right stuff and not allowing any hoses or brake lines to bind, twist, or kink.
Effective meaning the actual labor-time put into working. The rest of the time we were arguing and throwing breaker bars at each other :chuckle:

Thanks again for the write up!

esy
Posts: 85
Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2011 4:58 pm
Car: 2002 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4

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ehh, i wouldn't say it took us 1.5 hours to do it. the rears are very easy, and definitely quite a bit easier than all the other cars that i've done since they've all been integrated coil/shock systems on my 240 and Z. so, a little longer than normal, yeah, just because i didn't really think it was that easy to do the rears compared to other cars i've done.

on a side note, anyone know why there's a front and rear orientation of the rear coils? that struck me as strange and i couldn't really figure it out.


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