how to remove the splash shield when doing 300zx brake sawp?
how to remove the splash shield when doing 300zx brake sawp?
i m going to install 300zx calipiers, but i think i m going to have problem taking out the splash shield by just look at the diagram in the factory service manual. I dont have tools to cut, so i decided to take it out. can anyone tell me how to remove the splash shield in detail? like what tools i need to remove it? i think i can remove the spindle nut, but after that i have no idea how to remove it. and.. if anyone has done this sway, please give me some hints and problems will face. thanks!
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quiksilvia
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Baffle plate huh? never heard it called that before!:rolleyes
you have to remove the cover off of the actual hub and then you need to take off the hub.. dont remember the size socket is needed though. it is recommended you dont reuse the cover just get a new one from nissan they are like under 10 bucks IIRC!
you have to remove the cover off of the actual hub and then you need to take off the hub.. dont remember the size socket is needed though. it is recommended you dont reuse the cover just get a new one from nissan they are like under 10 bucks IIRC!
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quiksilvia
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quiksilvia
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't it actually be better to cut the little "lip" off of the shield instead of removing it? I'm not sure if it's a splash guard, heat shield or both, but it would seem to be better to leave it in place.
I'm sure you could find a place that could rent you something to cut it.
I'm sure you could find a place that could rent you something to cut it.
240_Keyy wrote:yeah, you are wrong, so here is your correction...
You have to completely remove the splash guard because the 300zx rotor tries to occupy the same space at the same time and physics has a bit of a problem with that...
the only place the z32 rotors interfere with are the edges of the sheild where they curl over the rotor. Cutting the outside edge of the sheild will work fine. Complete removal is not necessary, but I'd recommend it, as when you cut it, you usually end up bending it... sometimes enough to have it scrape the rotor after a bit of heat is added from heavy braking (happened to my rears).
That's good to know. I plan on doing the front Z32 upgrade once I get finished with my suspension work.AceInhole wrote:Complete removal is not necessary, but I'd recommend it, as when you cut it, you usually end up bending it... sometimes enough to have it scrape the rotor after a bit of heat is added from heavy braking (happened to my rears).
I would still rather retain the baffle though. I suppose the safest way to do it would be to remove the hub and the baffle and then cut that edge off. That should result in a nice clean cut and no mangled baffle.
AceInhole wrote:the only place the z32 rotors interfere with are the edges of the sheild where they curl over the rotor. Cutting the outside edge of the sheild will work fine. Complete removal is not necessary, but I'd recommend it, as when you cut it, you usually end up bending it... sometimes enough to have it scrape the rotor after a bit of heat is added from heavy braking (happened to my rears).
Uhhh, I am definitely going to have to disagree with you on this one. When I put on my Z rotors even with the outer lip cut off the whole inner face of the splash guard was touching my rotor. In fact you could not put on the rotor and spin it because the splash guard was holding it.
Then again, maybe it is because I have 30mm rotors?
kongmike wrote:OMG.... i m having 30mm rotors... i hope it wont holding my rotors.. if i need to remove it, anyone can me how to remove it in detail.esp what tools i need.. 240 is my only car.. i need to prepare everything, coz i dont have other car to get other things in case i m stuck...
??? http://www.fellasleepinenglishclass.com
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quiksilvia
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C-Kwik wrote:Take off the hub, use a long flathead screwdriver and pry the sucker off. Not hard at all. Removing it may expose the rotor a little to getting wet, but it's fairly well protected by the wheels. The missing sheild will help get more air to the rotos though. Big plus in my book.
Good point, C-Kwik. Aren't a lot of aftermarket rotors zinc plated anyway? They should resist corrosion pretty well. Besides, with a lot of aftermarket wheel designs, doesn't the front side of rotor get wet anyway?
240_Keyy wrote:Uhhh, I am definitely going to have to disagree with you on this one. When I put on my Z rotors even with the outer lip cut off the whole inner face of the splash guard was touching my rotor. In fact you could not put on the rotor and spin it because the splash guard was holding it.
Then again, maybe it is because I have 30mm rotors?
I'm betting the sheilds warped or bent slightly when cutting. It happens. You can always bend the sheild back or hammer it a bit. The sheild is very easily bendable (which is why it's easy to warp or bend it without noticing it in the first place).
240_Keyy wrote:Uhhh, I am definitely going to have to disagree with you on this one. When I put on my Z rotors even with the outer lip cut off the whole inner face of the splash guard was touching my rotor. In fact you could not put on the rotor and spin it because the splash guard was holding it.
Then again, maybe it is because I have 30mm rotors?
the importnut.net website is just one example of a cut sheild with z32 brakes.
It's possible that only the 26's or 28's (Q45) clear, but I'm almost positive the 30mm rotors also clear. My bet is that you bent the shield without noticing while making the cuts (very easy to do). My Q rotors wouldn't rotate at all at first, but after bending the sheild back in certain places it was fine.