how to remove the front brake rotors........

[mpeatc5]

holy cow ! i must be slow. how do you remove the front brake rotors to be replaced ? i removed all the bolts, even the hub and still couldn't budge the thing. am i missing something ?

[0wn3r]

I don't own a Pathfinder, but do they have bolt holes towards the center of the rotor like a 240sx? If so, get a bolt and tighten them down (not hardcore tighten). It helps 'push' the rotor away from the hub if it's a little rusted/stuck on. If that turns out to be the case, you could put anti-seize on the hub where the hub touches to help prevent this in the future...just don't put any on the wheel studs....

[fueler]

haha no offense but its nothing like on a tiny 2wd car like a 240sx http://rkrenn.com/xterra/howto/bearing/bearing.htm

^^ same as xterra except they have auto hubs and we have full time drive flanges (if youre 4x4)
Modified by fueler at 11:39 AM 5/7/2008

[mpeatc5]

nice link fueler, thanks.

here's another question. my new rotors don't look like the OEM. here's the link to what i got on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

is this the wrong rotor ? i confirmed it was the correct one, but then again, who knows.

[Mr Nice]

they're using a file photo on their ebay listing - they use the same photo for several vehicles.

they look like a very reputable ebay dealer so i wouldn't be worried at all.

[mpeatc5]

i'm not worried about the company. i was comparing my rotors currently on the pathfinder and the link that fueler sent and the rotor i recieved from r & r racing looks different. is this b/c the hub is attached. when you remove the rotor with the hub assembly, does the hub come away from the rotor.

[Issac]

Well I have a 2002 4WD and I did this 6 months ago. I am foggy but I thought I pulled rotor by pulling caliper off, caliper large bolts (22mm). But I took off the whole hub to put bearings in at the same time. I had a post on this a while back.

No special tools. Now that I think of it, you might just want to pull rotors unless it has say 100k + miles on hub bearings. The hubs and bearings took me a little learning curve.

[Issac]

No dude I remember now ( I think because I remember being pissed that you just couldn't pull the rotor, and you had to disect the whole darn hub. But I did another car since and that one a couple times with different task so I am a tad foggy. Here is how to do it to grease hubs if you want to go full on and get it all done.

I did have to seperate hub for the rotor. it was the black end cap first,

external clip (see old post),

2 screws (phillips and be darn careful on this),

unscrew that bearning pre load plate,

13mm small cap bolts off studs,

and the 14 or 16mm big rotor bolts,

crack the seam at the hub to rotor junction, (this was hard on the first time (2 large screwdrives opposite sides and work the tiny shoulder with them to get it to break free.) (heat might help and maybe a tad of liquid wrench)

then pull the threaded cap off ( that is the drive cap which is on the hub studs and really part of the hub itself. It takes power from the CV axle and puts it to wheel.

Now when you take the hub and rotor off, it is heavy, don't damage bearing seal as you slide the hub off the axle.

I would take this wonderful time to clean the hub out, grease it 3/4 full of good grease, replace seal or carfully reuse if you are sure it looks good, and make sure you get grease where it needs to be and not where it should not. Don't grease the studs or the wheel lug studs. Don't grease rotors.

Then you got to compress you cylinders to get them over the new pad width. Crack the bleeder if you have to, messy stuff.

Much carb cleaner, much grease rags and paper towels. Hub adjustment is kinda a pain, but not super bad.

I know it sounds awful, and the first time it was, but I had gone back and did it a second time when I decided to do bearings and it was not so bad. Oh and then a partial third time to get hub adjustment just right.

You can do it, it is many steps, not super hard, but a challenge a time. I am not super mechanical, but I did get it just fine. Messy and I hate junk and crap everywhere, so keep you work clean and the work area. It will get outta hand.

then you can pull the rotor.

[Mr Nice]

lol, definitely don't grease the rotors.

and use brake cleaner, not carb cleaner.

[mpeatc5]

thanks isaac. that is too funny, but happy to know that the hub and rotor do in fact separate. it has been a long time since i have dealt with 4wd vehicles, as i used to own an '85 cj7. anyway, thanks for the advice and between your post and fuelers link, i will now dig in and get dirty. i also have the nissan TIS cd and just wanted to here from you guys who have way more experience than i do and changing these things out.

BTW, i had posted in the past regarding the VTC solenoids and sensors that were throwing codes. very easy to change out and the pathfinder is working like a champ. i have 135k miles on it and ( knock on wood ) would like to keep it running.

[Issac]

yah the grease on rotor was a joke.But I did check out Fuelers link and that is perfect. The grease tool is not needed, and be careful taking that seal out if you put a new one in.Watch ABS sensor also.If you do the wheel, the bearing tension takes a little doing. Keep the old location marked on washer (which location of the phillips screws) and it might be the next one tighter or not depending on play prior. Get it seated by going extra tight, then back off till the thrust washer unloads slightly, then back with a light touch. Rotate at all stages to work grease to keep from false reading.I did this at about 35 degrees temp outside and the grease made it seem tighter. I probably would warm it looking back on it.

Funny but I found a needle nose, opened wide, turned with one hand pretty snug, was the right amount. It had play when I did it the amount suggested (on both sides).

Got to seat it tight first. I used a punch and went tight, then turn, then back it till unloaded, then snug only.

Use Locktite on screws maybe (green) and tighten them equaly.

Grease the CV axle and grease the cap on the inside with a little extra on the inside to feed the CV grooves.

Make sure your External clip is seated. Listen...Click!

[typhus]

Nice post, just wanted to add one small tip.No need to crack the bleeders, just remove the cap off the master cylinder, and compress the caliper cylinders "slowly".This will allow the fluid/air to displace back through the system without all the mess.Just make sure you depress very slowly as to not allow any air back into the line, the fluid in the reservoir will act as the buffer/valve to keep this from happening.

[Issac]

I agree but man it takes some force and I wanted to bleed anyway. The hands got nice and clean from it!

I still prefer drum brakes like in the rear. But I am sure there are reasons.