How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

1980-1986 Datsun 720 forums. All 720-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
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How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby Smyrna720 » Fri Oct 26, 2012 7:51 am

First, order the carb. Then open the box. This is what you'll find.

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Here is what you get.

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The first step is installing the SHORT studs into the adapter. I used a little locktite and screwed them in by hand flush with the bottom of the plate. Make sure the plate is correct side up, so you can install the allen head capscrews in later. Divots on top.

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I don't know why I put the stupid gasket on there. I didn't even use that one.

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Then, look at your engine longingly. Imagine what your Weber will look like here.

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I've removed all my emissions equipment already, so you'll probably have more stuff to disconnect than I do, but I digress. Remove negative battery cable, jack the vehicle up and remove the tires. Just kidding. Do remove the battery cable though.

Pull off the distributor vacuum advance.

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Next, pull off the cannon plug for the carb electronic controls if you have it, and the EFE heater plug

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Then, the ground wire to the intake manifold. It's 12mm, but you'll have better luck with a #3 phillips head screwdriver.

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Use a 10mm wrench or socket and pull off the accelerator cable mounting bracket.

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Pull the throttle to WOT and slide the end of the cable towards the firewall to turn it free.

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Drink beer, and smoke cigarettes.

Now that's done, remove the fuel line clamp.

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Now we can remove the mounting nuts... huh huh, nuts. That's what she said.

One

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Two

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Three

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Fo.

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Carefully pull up on the carb, and remove the nuts that you couldn't get completely off. Gently pry on the fuel line and lift slowly. DON'T drop any nuts or washers. Turn 'er loose...

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WAIT! OMG WTF ARE YOU DOING? DON'T THROW THAT AWAY! ARE YOU RETARDED?

Calm yo tits fool. You might need that someday. Put it on the shelf. Dummy.

Anyways, now that that hunk of s*** is off you motor, breathe a sigh of relief. you're not even halfway done.

Pull the EFE plate and that other plate thing off. Save it too. You never know, somebody out in California might want it.

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The fuel line as it sits will hit the adapter. Pry it away, but don't go too far. We'll do more with this later.

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Check fitment.

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Good enough.

Next, pull the old studs out. You can do it like this:

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But that's not the best way. You should double nut it. Huh huh, double nut.

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This is why. New studs are longer.

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New studs in, gasket on.

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Adapter on

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Allen heads in.

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'Nother gasket.

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Wait, wait, what are you doing? Put the nuts down... we're not bolting it on yet. We have fuel line issues.

GO EASY with this. Don't kink or break the line.

Pull the carb off and using a tapered punch, pull the fuel line away from the baseplate of the carb and toward the fuel inlet.

Check fit.

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Mess with it a little bit. Get it somewhat right. It took me 3 tries using various tools. A wrench, a punch and a dead blow hammer did it for me.

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Yeah, I guess that'll work.

Next, put your clamps on. BOTH of them. Tighten the bottom one and leave the top one loose.

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Then I guess you can tighten the top one.

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Still got your nuts? Good. Put the on. Things to note. #1, there are two different sizes nuts AND wave lock washers. Small silver ones on the passenger side, bigger ones on the driver side. #2, don't forget to put that throttle return spring bracket on.

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Tighten everything down.

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Throw the NEW throttle cable mount on there. Check fit.

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Fit obviously fucking sucks.

Slide the cable in and see how bad it is.

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Wow, shitty. We can do better than that.

Use a round file to fix the slot that won't allow the cable to slide in all the way

Then, Instead of right angles, make it look like a Z. A bench vise is helpful here

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Much gooder

Tighten the jam nuts.

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Hook the vacuum advance back up.

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Not done yet. Still gotta hook up the electric choke. I wanted to maintain at least SOME professionalism, so I pulled a wire out of the cannon plug from the CARB end, and worked some magic. It's longer now, blue and has a female spade terminal on one end.

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Put it in the BLUE wire terminal on the 6 plug connector. That's the factory electric choke wire.

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Might look something like this

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Zip tie that shizzle out of the way,

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Cross your fingers and pray you didn't drop something in the intake or leave a step out.

In theory, it should run.

Good luck.


XavierBK
Posts: 58
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 7:40 pm
Car: 2011 Yamaha Stryker
1985 Nissan 720

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby XavierBK » Fri Oct 26, 2012 8:27 am

Haha, nice write-up. Now, to save for a Weber.

Davezilla
Posts: 95
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:40 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX
1986 720 4x4

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby Davezilla » Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:51 pm

Very Nice writeup... this was one of the first things I did to mine after buying it, but mine is the Holley version so the electric choke is on the other side of the carb and the throttle rotates the opposite direction so it took a little more fab work to make the throttle bracket, and the return spring setup was a P.I.T.A. on mine since there's no place to really put the spring without it getting in the way of the throttle lever since it rotates the opposite direction. The only reason I went with the Holley version of this carb was because I saw one on ebay with a starting bid of $20 and about 5 minutes left so I couldn't just let that slip by (typically a Holley 5200 would cost about $75 or so for a rebuilt one), it did take some extra work to get the throttle set up and I had to re jet it but I saved about $200 or more by getting this one.

here's mine after installing it... you can see everything on the right side is on the left on mine...
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User avatar
fastboatman29212
Posts: 497
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Car: left this forum. Sold my truck.
Location: South Carolina

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby fastboatman29212 » Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:17 am

Hey man, NICE JOB! We always need DIY stuff. Glad you can contribute. My truck has a rebuilt Hitachi and runs fine, but to tell you the truth, it'd probably have better performance with a Weber. I'm just cheap! Ha!

Kudos on the nice pics too!
Jay

XavierBK
Posts: 58
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 7:40 pm
Car: 2011 Yamaha Stryker
1985 Nissan 720

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby XavierBK » Tue Nov 20, 2012 1:43 pm

Quick question, did you install a throttle return spring? I snatched the one off of my stock carb and used it but it makes the throttle extremely heavy.

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby Smyrna720 » Tue Nov 20, 2012 10:28 pm

XavierBK wrote:Quick question, did you install a throttle return spring? I snatched the one off of my stock carb and used it but it makes the throttle extremely heavy.
Yeah I did. I didn't picture it, but I grabbed one of the shorter ones off the old carb. I'll agree, it makes it heavier, but I've gotten used to it. I think I might go to the parts store and see if I can find a lighter one.

chaoc
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2012 6:02 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 4x4

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby chaoc » Sat Dec 01, 2012 4:44 pm

I used this guide to help me put on my new Weber. Thanks a ton!

Element103
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2015 9:25 am
Car: 1986 720

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby Element103 » Sun Aug 16, 2015 1:15 pm

I joined the forum specifically to thank you for making this writeup. Most thorough, methodical (and entertaining) how-to out there. Made installing my Weber a cinch. I bought the manual choke version though, which leads to two observations that I hope can help the next guy: If you buy the MANUAL CHOKE carburetor, i.e. 32/36 DGV, Redline kit #K646-M, your fuel inlet will be on the left side of the carb. This will force you to either reroute the metal portion of your fuel line to have it come up behind the intake manifold, or make an unsightly loop of hose between the line and the carb inlet. Not a huge deal, but something to consider.
Also, the hole for the hood release cable is big enough to also fit the choke cable, so you don't have to go drilling into your firewall.

bylzebub
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat May 30, 2015 2:06 pm
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 King Cab

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby bylzebub » Wed Oct 07, 2015 8:49 pm

That is a seriously awesome and helpful write up. I'm strongly considering putting a weber on. What changes did you notice after getting it on and tuned in?

And thanks again for the "how-to" its been bookmarked and I'll be coming back to it for reference for sure.

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby Smyrna720 » Sun Jan 03, 2016 10:38 pm

bylzebub wrote:That is a seriously awesome and helpful write up. I'm strongly considering putting a weber on. What changes did you notice after getting it on and tuned in?

And thanks again for the "how-to" its been bookmarked and I'll be coming back to it for reference for sure.
Changes noticed: Worse gas mileage, a little bit better power. Not much though. I had a pretty good running Hitachi. It was a reman. Usually when people replace them it's because the throttle bores are worn out. Mine had new bushings.
Element103 wrote:I joined the forum specifically to thank you for making this writeup. Most thorough, methodical (and entertaining) how-to out there. Made installing my Weber a cinch. I bought the manual choke version though, which leads to two observations that I hope can help the next guy: If you buy the MANUAL CHOKE carburetor, i.e. 32/36 DGV, Redline kit #K646-M, your fuel inlet will be on the left side of the carb. This will force you to either reroute the metal portion of your fuel line to have it come up behind the intake manifold, or make an unsightly loop of hose between the line and the carb inlet. Not a huge deal, but something to consider.
Also, the hole for the hood release cable is big enough to also fit the choke cable, so you don't have to go drilling into your firewall.
Thanks for the complements and thanks for the tips!

bdag
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:18 am
Car: 1986 720
Location: Home of Portlandia

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby bdag » Tue Jul 03, 2018 3:37 pm

Had this link bookmarked for years and finally got my Weber installed. I double checked everything and it looks right with just one problem. With the old Hitachi, as soon as I turned the key to the battery position I could hear the fuel pump clicking away. At least I thought it was the fuel pump. After this whole conversion I'm not getting that clicking sound anymore. A little gas/starter fluid in the carb and it fires up but won't stay running. Is there potentially a wire I deleted that I shouldn't have?

Brian

Smyrna720
Posts: 67
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:13 am
Car: 1985 Nissan 720 2WD stripper
1996 Chevrolet Caprice (The fast one)
1997 Dodge Intrepid (The beater)
Location: Smyrna TN, Home of the 720
Contact:

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby Smyrna720 » Tue Jul 03, 2018 7:11 pm

Um, I don’t think so. How long has the truck sat? Did the fuel pump freeze up on you? I’ve had that problem before where the gas gummed up the fuel pump and it stuck. A smack with the handle of a hammer freed the last one up.

bdag
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:18 am
Car: 1986 720
Location: Home of Portlandia

Re: How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

Postby bdag » Thu Jul 05, 2018 9:50 am

Probably sat about close to 2 years. After 6 months of realizing it wouldn't move for a while I did put some Heet in the gas tank. My pump is right under the gas tank on the sidewall of the chassis but I always thought I'd heard that clicking noise from under the hood. I'll give it a whack and see what happens. Or worst case I guess I pull the pump and clean it out.


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