Here is what you get.
The first step is installing the SHORT studs into the adapter. I used a little locktite and screwed them in by hand flush with the bottom of the plate. Make sure the plate is correct side up, so you can install the allen head capscrews in later. Divots on top.
I don't know why I put the stupid gasket on there. I didn't even use that one.
Then, look at your engine longingly. Imagine what your Weber will look like here.
I've removed all my emissions equipment already, so you'll probably have more stuff to disconnect than I do, but I digress. Remove negative battery cable, jack the vehicle up and remove the tires. Just kidding. Do remove the battery cable though.
Pull off the distributor vacuum advance.
Next, pull off the cannon plug for the carb electronic controls if you have it, and the EFE heater plug
Then, the ground wire to the intake manifold. It's 12mm, but you'll have better luck with a #3 phillips head screwdriver.
Use a 10mm wrench or socket and pull off the accelerator cable mounting bracket.
Pull the throttle to WOT and slide the end of the cable towards the firewall to turn it free.
Drink beer, and smoke cigarettes.
Now that's done, remove the fuel line clamp.
Now we can remove the mounting nuts... huh huh, nuts. That's what she said.
One
Two
Three
Fo.
Carefully pull up on the carb, and remove the nuts that you couldn't get completely off. Gently pry on the fuel line and lift slowly. DON'T drop any nuts or washers. Turn 'er loose...
WAIT! OMG WTF ARE YOU DOING? DON'T THROW THAT AWAY! ARE YOU RETARDED?
Calm yo tits fool. You might need that someday. Put it on the shelf. Dummy.
Anyways, now that that hunk of s*** is off you motor, breathe a sigh of relief. you're not even halfway done.
Pull the EFE plate and that other plate thing off. Save it too. You never know, somebody out in California might want it.
The fuel line as it sits will hit the adapter. Pry it away, but don't go too far. We'll do more with this later.
Check fitment.
Good enough.
Next, pull the old studs out. You can do it like this:
But that's not the best way. You should double nut it. Huh huh, double nut.
This is why. New studs are longer.
New studs in, gasket on.
Adapter on
Allen heads in.
'Nother gasket.
Wait, wait, what are you doing? Put the nuts down... we're not bolting it on yet. We have fuel line issues.
GO EASY with this. Don't kink or break the line.
Pull the carb off and using a tapered punch, pull the fuel line away from the baseplate of the carb and toward the fuel inlet.
Check fit.
Mess with it a little bit. Get it somewhat right. It took me 3 tries using various tools. A wrench, a punch and a dead blow hammer did it for me.
Yeah, I guess that'll work.
Next, put your clamps on. BOTH of them. Tighten the bottom one and leave the top one loose.
Then I guess you can tighten the top one.
Still got your nuts? Good. Put the on. Things to note. #1, there are two different sizes nuts AND wave lock washers. Small silver ones on the passenger side, bigger ones on the driver side. #2, don't forget to put that throttle return spring bracket on.
Tighten everything down.
Throw the NEW throttle cable mount on there. Check fit.
Fit obviously f*** sucks.
Slide the cable in and see how bad it is.
Wow, s***. We can do better than that.
Use a round file to fix the slot that won't allow the cable to slide in all the way
Then, Instead of right angles, make it look like a Z. A bench vise is helpful here
Much gooder
Tighten the jam nuts.
Hook the vacuum advance back up.
Not done yet. Still gotta hook up the electric choke. I wanted to maintain at least SOME professionalism, so I pulled a wire out of the cannon plug from the CARB end, and worked some magic. It's longer now, blue and has a female spade terminal on one end.
Put it in the BLUE wire terminal on the 6 plug connector. That's the factory electric choke wire.
Might look something like this
Zip tie that shizzle out of the way,
Cross your fingers and pray you didn't drop something in the intake or leave a step out.
In theory, it should run.
Good luck.
