msoriano0123 wrote:can anyone help me or tell me how to lower a 510 station wagon
The wagon is leaf sprung on the rear, so there are 3 methods that I know for lowering leaf sprung suspensions. I have done it in my racing B210, and I have done it in my Datsun 710.
(1): Decambering the springs. Decambering, or dearching is the best method. You have to take your leaf springs off the car and take them to a spring shop. ( unless you drive to the spring shop...in which case, they will charge extra for doing that job....you might loose a liomb! )Spring shops that work on truck ( trailers, 18 wheelers, etc ) springs do that kind of work. What they do is flatten your leaf springs, take away the arch, hence, your ride will go lower by about 2.5 in You will need shorter shocks if you are using gas shocks ( compressed gas shocks become extremely hard ) but shocks are not expensive , I do not see that as a problem. This is the method used in racing cars. Performance leaf springs are dearched units and heftier.
(2): Lowering blocks. By using lowering blocks, you are achieving the same results as in decambering the leaves, but instead you use blocks to lower the entire assembly in relation to the axle. The disadvantage of this method against decambering is that you will need longer U bolts to accomodate the block that is sandwiched between the leaf spring seat and the axle, stock U bolts will not do it ,and your leaf springs will go lower, becoming more visible. At the same time, your springs will be closer to the floor , not too bad ( decambering keeps the springs at its stock location in relation to the axle ) .
(3): Switching leaves position within the spring assembly. There is a method by which you can take the spring off the car, and disassemble the unit, taking the center bolt off. Once off, reverse the 3rd leaf, and rebolt the assembly.Once re bolted, the reversed leaf flatens the whole assembly, hence decambering the assembly.
In earnest, I think decambering is the best way. By decambering, you get to use your stock U bolts and hardware, and get a pro look, pro results, and all you got to get is shorter shocks. The spring remains located, seated , in it's stock position against the axle and seat, unlike the block method, which seats the spring lower, away from the axle, with a block in between axle and spring seat. With blocks you achieve nice looks, but you need longer U bolts, and you have to make sure the blocks are in place and well adjusted. The third method works, I have seen it, but, if you are going to take the springs out of the car, might as well do it right, decamber the springs, and at the same time, the shop will align them and check them out.
my 2 cents