how to keep chassis for as long as possible?

[nwmrkt]

Hey guys, this is more of a self anal question i need answered so bear with me . I plan on keeping my s13 for as long as possible and i mean it. Im am going to get rid of every single part of rust and undercoat it properly...now what I was wondering was as long as the "chassis" is clean, mielage doesn't matter as long as its clean, unlimited you can say? (not removable parts, motor, suspension, etc), it can last as long as I want right?. There isnt anyting special else I should do to the chassis?

Im alittle weary of the hard glue substance that is used all over the car to keep it together (you guys know what i mean right), does that stuff deteriorate over time? Should I stitch weld them to be sure? I want to make sure this car last for as long as possible.

Again, these questions may seem dumb to some but yeah, im anal and i need to know .

Thanks guys

[180fan]

No worries. I'm the same way. If you're going for a full all out clean up and replace-everything method, check out the madness that my local Glenn did on his s13 http://www.stillensucks.com/ . That's the way to clean and replace everything on an s13. If you are going to go after the caulking, yes, it would be a good idea to have some stitch welding done and some other bracing on the s13 before the car goes out to the paint shop.

Weather stripping btw will be the toughest stuff to get since enough of those pieces have been discontinued.

[nwmrkt]

No worries. I'm the same way. If you're going for a full all out clean up and replace-everything method, check out the madness that my local Glenn did on his s13 http://www.stillensucks.com/ . That's the way to clean and replace everything on an s13. If you are going to go after the caulking, yes, it would be a good idea to have some stitch welding done and some other bracing on the s13 before the car goes out to the paint shop.

Weather stripping btw will be the toughest stuff to get since enough of those pieces have been discontinued.

Thanks man, just what i wanted to hear. The caulking stuff is what I got worried from...that stuff can deteriorate over time right? Would a full out stitch welding of the whole car sound good to you? The added stiffness would be good. Any cons to stitch welding a daily/track driver, any safetyconcerns?

Other than that, as long as the metal on the chassis is rust free and what not, it will always be good right?

Thanks

[nwmrkt]

also in regards to stitch welding the whole car...the car will have the same handling characteristics right? just woulb be "better" so to speak?

[LayNLow240]

also in regards to stitch welding the whole car...the car will have the same handling characteristics right? just woulb be "better" so to speak?

the car will be stiffer for sure if you did every seam. and dont be like everyone else and spot weld the chassis and call it seam welding. do it right, 1.5-2 inch of weld, 1-1.5 inch of gap

[nwmrkt]

the car will be stiffer for sure if you did every seam. and dont be like everyone else and spot weld the chassis and call it seam welding. do it right, 1.5-2 inch of weld, 1-1.5 inch of gap

like this correct?

Are there any cons to stitch welding? any, regards to safety in a crash or whatever.

[180fan]

1. in a crash, unless there are points (like crumple zones) that are weak, more energy will be transmitted to the driver. So if you're going all out track car duty, leave stuff like the bumpers, the foam, and leave areas at the front and back normal versus doing everything. At least you'll be sure there will be some areas that will take that engery instead of you taking a good hefty sum of it.

2. check out what the names imply. Seam, think of the seam of your pants and such. Looks fairly continuous. Spot, in spots. LayNLow's post gives you further details on the distance the continuous seam should be and the gap between the seams.

[nwmrkt]

1. in a crash, unless there are points (like crumple zones) that are weak, more energy will be transmitted to the driver. So if you're going all out track car duty, leave stuff like the bumpers, the foam, and leave areas at the front and back normal versus doing everything. At least you'll be sure there will be some areas that will take that engery instead of you taking a good hefty sum of it.

2. check out what the names imply. Seam, think of the seam of your pants and such. Looks fairly continuous. Spot, in spots. LayNLow's post gives you further details on the distance the continuous seam should be and the gap between the seams.

Ic thanks, so what your saying is weld some places and others places not? This is gonna be a street/weekend warrior car...what places do you recommend welding and not? It's just that "caulking" stuff in worried about...does that stuff deteriorate over time (what exactly do they do)? Anything I should do about it? (thats why im thinking of welding), or am I just speaking nonsense?

Thanks!

[pr240sx]

Do some stich wleding and use structural foam inside the pillars for maximum strenght.

Also, chek for rust on the windshield area (under the glass) at the shock towers where they meet the body (specially near the brake booster) floor and door sills.Repair and coat as necessary

[180fan]

The caulking, you could always go over if you remove it. Don't think it's absolutly necessary though.

[nwmrkt]

Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it! As for stitch welding, I would love the added stiffness to the car...any reason "NOT" to stitch weld? Any place I "SHOULDN'T" weld? Also stitch welding could also prolong the life of the chassis as well? meaning the caulking, as the welds take the place of that stuff....correct?

Thanks a bunch

[180fan]

cost, alot of time in labor and downtime, needs painting afterwards...