How to install this MBC?

[KingTurd]

Greetings all.

I just purchased a cheapo manual boost controller from eBay. Relax, its only temporary till I get a much better EBC.

Anyways, the seller isnt all that great with responding to emails, nor were there any instructions sent with the item. I have built homemade MBC's before, but this one came with a wastegate "bleeder/breather" to relieve the WG line between shifts. That makes sense. What doesnt make sense is how to set this up. The kit comes with the actual controller, as seen here:



which uses a needle valve adjustment. Internals seen here:



Now, here is the so-called wastegate bleeder:



(nevermind those teeth marks, I was attempting to take that apart until I stopped when I realized that the barbs are in there with 10,000 ft/lbs of torque, or they are glued in)

On both the controller and the breather, the arrow points in the direction to the wastegate actuator. With this bleeder box, however, this is how the airflow looks:



The airflow going from left to right is severely restricted. Air still passes through but only a very, very minute amount. Air coming from the top passes cleanly out the right hand side. Now, if you hook up the lines according to the arrows painted on the stickers on the controller/bleeder, the top port on the bleeder box will be left open (maybe to vent into the atmosphere or rerouted back into the intake). It seems to me thats where the WGA line vents its pressure, but I am not quite sure the pressure will even hit the actuator with that setup.

Something tells me this is set up completely different than the old ball/spring controllers. My boost source is coming from the hotpipe a few inches from the turbo, and it will lead to the stock WGA on a t25 for a 91 redtop.

Essentially it doesnt bother me if I just got hosed, since it was like $3.99. However, I would still like to give it a shot if anyone has a suggestion on how to hook it up. Ive never had problems with MBC's before, but this one just seems strange.

Thanks in advance!

[supreamS14]

I got a cheep MBC set to 14 psi. It spiked to 20, blew my headgasket and broke/melted a piston! That mbc looks different than mine so I cant help you out how to hook it up, Just letting you know to be really carfull with that!

[KingTurd]

Ouch!

When I first put in the sr20, mine spiked to around 20 also. There was no evident damage, so I think I got lucky.

I am usually pretty careful when adjusting them, and I normally I dont floor it until I know it wont go above a certain point. Doesnt mean it wont spike though.

[KingTurd]

Ack, posted too soon. I think I found my solution:

http://www.turbosmartonline.co...d=200

Its not for the same exact MBC, but the system is still the same. I guess Ill go try it out and see how fast I can blow up my engine :P

Hopefully this helps someone else if they have the same question.

[positron1]

Here's the instructions included with the ebay manual boost controller I got before I did my research and heard about horror stories like the ones above.

[KingTurd]

Well this boost controller works slightly different than yours. I have built homemade boost controllers such as that. The one I bought works by relieving pressure in the wastegate line, hence the turbo has to work harder to make the default WG spring reach its limit. No ball and spring (in the controller, anyways), just a threaded needle valve.

I did hook it up, but that stupid "breather/bleeder" box wasnt doing me any justice. It would never fill the WG line, so the turbo would just sit there and spool forever if I let it. I never went over 12 psi with that setup by closely watching the gauge as I drove--never do testing in first gear! So I took the box apart and took out the ball and spring that was inside. Worked like a charm afterwards. If it spikes at all, its usually like 0.5 psi or so. Pretty stable. Also it holds the same whether I am getting on it in first gear or 3rd. Pretty suprised such a cheapo boost controller works so well.

[Emperor_Tha]

This is for a ball and spring type. One of the nipple u should be able to suck on it with no problem and when u blow on it u should have no air coming out the other nipple. So that nipple goes to the wastegate.

The other nipple should be vise versa. That goes to the boost sorce.

[Komeuppance]

I know this is old... but here are the correct instructions on how to install this chinese copy of the REAL TurboSmart Gated Boost Control Valve (In Cabin):http://www.turbosmartonline.co...d=200

I have the chinese copy, and searched forever to figure out how to install it correctly... so I'm spreading the word. The link shows TurboSmart changed the body design from the original ( http://www.rotorsportsracing.c...c.htm ), and added clear instructions on which vac line goes where right on the body.

The instructions also show how to prevent boost spiking, by removing the ball/spring like KingTurd said.

Hope this helps some out.

-Robert