NRGM45 tracked down the parts for this system and tried them out. So, thanks to him for that. The system uses the stock key to start the vehicle by pressing the lock button 3x. It is compatible with many RF remotes to increase the range. I am just using the stock remote. I am going to detail how I installed the system on my 2012 M37x using the directions at Fortin.ca, Wirecolor.com, and FSM’s found on this forum.  I am not a professional. I am not liable for any damage which may occur to your vehicle. I do a lot of my own maintenance on my vehicles, but this was my first attempt at electrical. Please read the instructions provided with the system and online.  I tried to write this in a way that it would have helped me not have to do so much looking through the FSM's and wiring diagrams. It would appear the wires are the same colors on the M56 and M37 so these directions should work with that vehicle as well. Once again check my work against your specific instructions. I did not hook up the lock (-) and unlock (-) wires as they were optional in the instructions and located inside the door.

Task: Install stand-alone push-to-start system
Time: 2 hours (maybe longer)


Parts Needed:

- Fortin – EVO-NIST1
                This comes with the NIST1 harness and EVO-ALL module which must be hardware version 6 or higher according to the instructions.  I did not know this ahead of time but got lucky the one was Version 6.  You may want to check with the seller to ensure the hardware version is correct. Here is the link to the one I ordered.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IE ... UTF8&psc=1



- Fortin Flash-Link Updater
                In the instructions it says you need Flash-Link Updater 2.  I just ordered the regular Flash-Link from Amazon.  It seems to have come with the regular Flash-Link and instructions for the Flash-Link 2.  I’m not sure if there is a difference but the one I ordered was $15 cheaper and worked. Again here is the link to the one I purchased.
               
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030 ... UTF8&psc=1

- 22-18 Quick Splice Connectors (You can just solder all the connections but I used these for the smaller gauge wire connections)


Tools Needed:

- 10mm Socket
- wire stripper
- Soldering gun
- solder
- electrical tape

Process:

1) Download the Flash Link Manager Software and follow the instructions to update the firmware on EVO-ALL and Flash Link.

2) Before starting on the car, I disconnected the negative terminal of the battery so I didn’t short anything out as I connected the wires. (10mm wrench)

In the picture below I put red dots in the three areas I spliced connections.



3) Pull the cover off the left end of the dashboard.



4) Remove the 2-10mm bolts behind the hood release handle.  Once the bolts are out pull forward then down on the handle to separate it from the lower dashboard panel.



5) You can now remove the lower dash panel by pulling outward.  After popping it loose, unplug the white wire connector on the left and the hose on the right and remove the dash panel.



6) Remove the 4-10mm bolts holding the bracket on below the steering wheel.



7) Twist off the plastic knob below the parking brake which holds the driver’s side kick panel.

8) Pull up on the trim along the lower edge of the driver’s side door sill.  I started at the front and ran my finger along the outside edge.  I only partially pulled it up enough to allow for removal of the kick panel covering the fuse panel.

 

9) Remove the kick panel covering the fuses by pulling outward on it.  It is held by two posts on the left side and the small tab under the parking brake.



10) Looking at the area just below the steering wheel you will see a white box with a barcode on it. (Red dot in picture) Pull the white connector from the left side.  To the left of that is a black box which is the BCM.  Remove the two screws at the top of this (circled) and lift it up and unhook the BCM from the tabs where the screws were. Lower it down and turn it to gain access to the connections on the side.




There is a 4-wire connector on the EVO-NIST1 wiring harness with red, black, blue, and white wires. If using a RF kit you plug the connector into that.  I did the stand alone install so the black and red wires were cut to connect to power and ground.


11) We are going to use the two connectors closest to you on the BCM. Pull the white connector first. There are 2 larger gauge wires on the white connector; one black, one white.  (See Picture)




The white wire is 12v + and the black is the ground.  Connect the red wire you just cut on the harness to the white wire and the black to black.  I am sure there are other places you can pull power from this is just what I used.   You have to access the BCM for the next connection anyway so I figured this was fairly easy.  Since these are larger gauge than the harness wires I just soldered these and taped them up.


12) The door pin (-) connection is made on the black connector on the BCM right next to the white one we just used for power.  One side of the connector has 3 wires and the other has 8.  With the 8 wire side facing you, the third wire from the left is light green.  This is the door pin wire.  I used a 22-18 gauge quick splice connector to connect the pink/black wire from the large white connector on the NIST1 harness.



Here's a picture after I put the connectors back with all three wires connected.




13) Looking at the fuse panel (back over near the parking brake) we took the cover off earlier, there are three wire connectors on the left side.  Unplug the one in the middle. 



Behind the button on this connector are a larger gauge pink wire and smaller gauge red wire.  The smaller gauge red wire is the parking light (+). 



There is a loose brown wire from the NIST1 harness which connects to this wire.  I used the quick splice connection here also.




14) There is a white connector and a brown connector below the push to start button.  Disconnect the white connector.



15) The brown connector is attached to a black cylinder containing the push to start button. Reaching behind the dash squeeze the sides of the cylinder and it will push forward out of the dash. You can see one of the two tabs you need to press in this picture.



If you disconnected the white connector the button will pull pretty far out of the dash. This makes it much easier to get to the wire you need.  Looking at the brown connector with the 5 wire side closest to you the brown wire on the bottom left is the push-to-start (-). 



I used a quick splice to attach the white/black wire from the large white connector on the NIST1 harness to this wire. Slide it back into the dash.


16) Now for the easy part.  The NIST1 harness has a t-connection for the white connector behind the push-to-start button.  One side to the wire the other plugs in behind the push-to-start button.



17) Looking just above the brake pedal there are two plastic connectors. Connect the t-connection from the NIST1 to the white connector.



18) Pop the white OBD connector out of the lower dashboard panel and hook up the t-connection from the NIST1 harness.



19) Reconnect your car battery.

20) Follow the step-by-step instructions from Fortin.ca to program the EVO-ALL module.

https://fortin.ca/download/32791/evo-al ... _32791.pdf

21) Plug the EVO_ALL back into your computer and use the Decryptor tab in the Flash-Link Manager program.

22) Go back to the car and hook everything back up, test the system, and put your car back together. 

P.S. - If you disconnected your battery your auto-up windows no longer function. Roll each window down individually and roll them back up holding up on the window control for longer than 10 seconds. Reprogram your memory seats and you are good to go.

Any questions let me know.

EPIC man. This sounds rather easy and FAR cheaper than all of the other systems. How does the system work once you get in the car? Do you just drive and go or does it require some other steps like turning the car off and back on?

Adding this to the FAQ. Thank you for taking the time to do this, especially because this will directly benefit me lol.

Just unlock the door with your key fob or the button on the door handle, get in, and drive off. The module is deactivated once you hit the brake. Pretty slick.

TLoc wrote:Just unlock the door with your key fob or the button on the door handle, get in, and drive off. The module is deactivated once you hit the brake. Pretty slick.

Perfect. What would you say the max distance is? Do you need direct line of sight to the car from the window the house/office you're in? I'll be moving soon to a place with an attached garage but my current place of residence it's about 30-35ft and can see from a window. I'm sure I'll have no problem there...but some other places might not be so good (store/mall, etc.).

It's whatever the range is on the stock key fob. Not too good. I actually just ordered the Fortin RF642W that plugs straight into the Evo-All. Mount the antenna and you have 3500 foot range with a secondary 2-way remote. I will let you know how that works when I get it. Another hundred bucks but equivalent 2-way systems are well over $400 so still way ahead, and I still have the option to start it with my regular key fob.

TLoc wrote:It's whatever the range is on the stock key fob. Not too good. I actually just ordered the Fortin RF642W that plugs straight into the Evo-All. Mount the antenna and you have 3500 foot range with a secondary 2-way remote. I will let you know how that works when I get it. Another hundred bucks but equivalent 2-way systems are well over $400 so still way ahead, and I still have the option to start it with my regular key fob.

Gotcha. Thanks for the info. I'll probably try the stock fob route and see if it covers what I need and if not wait for your review on the RF. Will cutting the wires above be an issue now that you've ordered the RF (I believe you cut two for power/ground that would have otherwise gone to the RF?).

It doesn't look like it. I think that plug will still provide just power into a new t-harness for the new antenna and the Evo-All. The new harness picks up the blue/white coming in from the new RF antenna. I think if I added an aftermarket system with a separate RF module I may need to reconnect the blue/white.

I received the RF unit and it does look like I will have to reconnect the blue and white wires I previously cut. When I made the initial cut I completely removed one of the connectors on the harness. Of course that was the one I needed. The new harness has a 12v power and ground. So I will have to solder that to the wires I have tapped for power and reconnect the blue and white wires. I will update when I get it installed. Had I purchased both together I could have hooked up the power to the new harness and the rest would have been plug and play with the EVO-ALL.

TLoc wrote:I received the RF unit and it does look like I will have to reconnect the blue and white wires I previously cut. When I made the initial cut I completely removed one of the connectors on the harness. Of course that was the one I needed. The new harness has a 12v power and ground. So I will have to solder that to the wires I have tapped for power and reconnect the blue and white wires. I will update when I get it installed. Had I purchased both together I could have hooked up the power to the new harness and the rest would have been plug and play with the EVO-ALL.

Good info, keep us posted. I haven't purchased anything yet, going to wait a week or two.

After cutting the power wires from the EVO-ALL to the car and reattaching the black/red I cut in step 10 above the RF antenna plugged into my NIST1 harness with the included T-harness. The new harness has a black and red wire which I soldered to the power wires from the car. So if you ordered all of it together and didn't cut any harness wires you could just hook power to the RF harness and the RF is plug and play.

The RF unit I actually ended up ordering was the Crimestopper RFALL642W. It looked identical to the Fortin model in the pictures I saw, had the same model number, and said it worked with Fortin. This was cheaper than the Fortin branded one and clearly comes with the T-harness where the Fortin may or may not come with the harness depending where you buy it. When it came it was indeed a Fortin unit with Fortin's instructions. They didn't even bother rebranding it.

I will post about the range after I have a chance to play with it a little. They claim 3000ft. and the reviews I read said the range was excellent. The 3x lock on the Infiniti key still starts the car also.

TLoc wrote:After cutting the power wires from the EVO-ALL to the car and reattaching the black/red I cut in step 10 above the RF antenna plugged into my NIST1 harness with the included T-harness. The new harness has a black and red wire which I soldered to the power wires from the car. So if you ordered all of it together and didn't cut any harness wires you could just hook power to the RF harness and the RF is plug and play.

The RF unit I actually ended up ordering was the Crimestopper RFALL642W. It looked identical to the Fortin model in the pictures I saw, had the same model number, and said it worked with Fortin. This was cheaper than the Fortin branded one and clearly comes with the T-harness where the Fortin may or may not come with the harness depending where you buy it. When it came it was indeed a Fortin unit with Fortin's instructions. They didn't even bother rebranding it.

I will post about the range after I have a chance to play with it a little. They claim 3000ft. and the reviews I read said the range was excellent. The 3x lock on the Infiniti key still starts the car also.

So the Flash Link you only use the one time? Is there any need for it after you have initially programmed the unit?

Yes, you only use the Flash Link to program the EVO unit. So unless you make changes you only need it once. I initially programmed the unit as a stand-alone starter using the stock key fob. When I added the RF unit I had to use the Flash Link again to have it recognize the RF antenna. So I ended up using it a couple of times. Even with the cost of that, this system is far cheaper than any two-way system I found.

So far I have tested it out to 1000ft. from inside the far back corner of a Target store and it worked great. The RF remote lights up green to let you know it successfully started the car. I'm real happy with it so far. I will try to test the max range and let you guys know. I will also report back if it gives me any problems.

Trying to decide if I want to get this now or for next season...this is all good news and I'm glad we finally have a legit affordable option.

Ilya wrote:Trying to decide if I want to get this now or for next season...this is all good news and I'm glad we finally have a legit affordable option.

I say get it done now, Ilya. You'll be kicking yourself when the next sub-zero day hits and you see frost coming out of your nose as you're starting your car, from inside the car. Or, you could be sipping hot coffee as your car warms up and when you're ready to roll you jump in drive the f off.....LOL

TLOC, great write-up man. I am about to order this and install over the weekend, weather permitting. Question: If I buy the Evo-All, Flash Link, and the RF, You only need to find a power source +12 for the RF Unit and everything will work correctly? Did I read that right or did I miss something? If no wire cutting is involved it makes the install so much easier. Thanks in advance.

R

reggiebrown40 wrote:

Ilya wrote:Trying to decide if I want to get this now or for next season...this is all good news and I'm glad we finally have a legit affordable option.

I say get it done now, Ilya. You'll be kicking yourself when the next sub-zero day hits and you see frost coming out of your nose as you're starting your car, from inside the car. Or, you could be sipping hot coffee as your car warms up and when you're ready to roll you jump in drive the f off.....LOL

TLOC, great write-up man. I am about to order this and install over the weekend, weather permitting. Question: If I buy the Evo-All, Flash Link, and the RF, You only need to find a power source +12 for the RF Unit and everything will work correctly? Did I read that right or did I miss something? If no wire cutting is involved it makes the install so much easier. Thanks in advance.

R

lol true. Winter has been pretty 'eh' this year though which is why I'm going back and forth. Definitely will be doing it, just a matter of when.

Thanks Reggie. Yep, the black and white in step 11 hook into the harness that comes with the RF unit, that has a plug on it for the black 4 wire connector from the NIST harness, and a plug for the Evo-All. It's just another t-connection. It was real nice that you don't have to cut any wires. I figured if I completely messed it up I could just pull everything out and it would be like it never happened.

TLoc wrote:Thanks Reggie. Yep, the black and white in step 11 hook into the harness that comes with the RF unit, that has a plug on it for the black 4 wire connector from the NIST harness, and a plug for the Evo-All. It's just another t-connection. It was real nice that you don't have to cut any wires. I figured if I completely messed it up I could just pull everything out and it would be like it never happened.

Great. I think I'm going to order this today so I can install this weekend.

Thanks for this write-up. Very helpful.

R

Let us know how it goes. After that subwoofer/amp project this should be nothing. I forgot to mention it but there is a nice gap along the inside top of the windshield to run the antenna wire, after mounting the RF antenna near your mirror. When I got to the A-pillar I tucked it into the gap between the two pieces of trim there to get it to just inside the door frame. Then tucked it behind the seal along the edge of the door frame. You don't have to pull any trim pieces to run that wire.

TLoc wrote:Let us know how it goes. After that subwoofer/amp project this should be nothing. I forgot to mention it but there is a nice gap along the inside top of the windshield to run the antenna wire, after mounting the RF antenna near your mirror. When I got to the A-pillar I tucked it into the gap between the two pieces of trim there to get it to just inside the door frame. Then tucked it behind the seal along the edge of the door frame. You don't have to pull any trim pieces to run that wire.

I ended up abandoning the amp / sub project at least for the time being. the sub box wasn't built properly and didn't sound good, and it took up a lot of trunk space. I may pick it up in the spring depending on how things go.

I'm a bit confused about the tharness you are mentioning. I think you're saying that you had to splice into the tharness, not the factory connectors, correct? If that's the case, I don't think it's worth it to by the RF extender. I don't need to start my car from half a mile away, lol.

I don't mind splicing into the tharness, and it looks like that's what you're saying, but correct me if I'm wrong.

R

Sorry, I am probably making this more confusing than it is. There is no additional work with the RF kit other than running the antenna wire. That being said if you don't need the range it works great up close with the stock key fob. One consideration for me was leaving at 5AM I didn't want to have to press lock, honk my horn, 3x to start it. RF kit is silent.

I will try to clear things up. I probably should have added some pics of the harnesses to the How To. I didn't think of it and this forum only lets you edit a post for a limited amount of time.

Here is a picture of the harness that comes with the RF.



Black and red go to power. Male black connector to the Evo-All and blue connector to RF antenna.

Here is a diagram of the harness that comes with the EVO-All.



If you do a stand-alone install you will have to cut the black and red wire on the 4 wire connector (Connection B in the diagram). You connect those to the power in step 11. If you use the RF it's harness plugs into connection B.

Ok, great. I think I got it now. That is a big nuisance with the horn beeping. I might have to consider the RF module.

thanks again, you went above and beyond on this one

R

I got a pretty good distance test on it yesterday. Went to the shopping mall. One where you enter on the upper level and it has a level below that one. I was I never the center of the lower level with my car at one end 1500 ft away and it started, no problem. I think it would easily get 3000ft.+ under "ideal circumstances".

I ordered the EVO-NIST1 and the Flash Link today. Hoping to get it installed sometime in February. Thanks again for the write up. Very helpful info.

Thanks Nix. I have gotten a lot of good info here. Glad I could contribute a little.

I'm wondering how transferable this is to the 06-10 m35's

I really don't know how similar the vehicles are. If you go to the Fortin website, https://fortin.ca/, you can plug in the vehicle model and year and they will tell you what you need and if it's compatible. Looks like you need the Evo-One for the remote start. When you get the unit they give you a subscription to access Wirecolor.com. That site has pictures and locations for the wires you need to tap into. The instructions that came with the Fortin were very good. I think you could work it out if you are even somewhat competent.

I installed this same system over the weekend. After reading through the standalone installation from Fortin as well as your write up, I was able to get this done without any hiccup. I still don't get why this entire system couldn't have been installed without any splicing, but it works none the less. Thanks for an excellent write up!

I am curious, however, what system Infiniti uses for their OEM dealership install if anyone knows -- I would think that system would be plug-and-play into a single harness, but I could be wrong.

Thanks for the feedback. I imagine they could make it plug and play, but they would probably have to have a lot more variations of the harness. I guessing the ones they have in the plugs are the same across many vehicles. I would be curious to know what the dealer uses as well.

Bumping this as I'm getting the wife's remote start fixed on her Rav4 (needs a new brain) for $100 and the guy quoted me $375 to install a 2-way system into my car. So it got me thinking.

For those who have done it, any issues? All still working well? No electrical gremlins/possessed cars after? Thanks!