How to fix sqeaking A/C?

[untrueparadox]

Since the summer started, the sqeaks got louder and louder. Basically, when I first start the car and turn on the A/C, it lets out a very loud squeaking intermittent sound. After I warm it up and drive around for 5 mins, it wont squeak. I went to Pep Boys and asked the guys there what they think the problem is, and they told me that a quick fix would be to spray some WD-40 on the belt and it should take care of it. I have no idea how to get to the A/C compressor belt and I really don't want to take it to the dealers and spend three digit dollars getting it fixed. Reading around, some people also suggested that the belt might be old or the A/C compressor is dying. I just replaced the timing belt a year ago and went through the whole 180k mile service thing, is that the same one as the belt on the engine? I had my usual mechanic at a local shop check the problem, and he said nothing's wrong, just keep driving. I have a feeling something is getting scratched at and is gonna get damaged.w

[MaximA32]

Sounds like your A/C belt is either needs to be adjusted or replaced.

[untrueparadox]

ya from what i know, the belt is just the timing belt right? it should last longer than a year, or at least thats what the dealer techs told me. every 30k miles? i went ahead and bought the belt conditioner, but i cant find the belt. is there a service manual or diagram that can point me in the right direction?

[MinisterofDOOM]

A/C belt and timing belt are separate things. Timing belt turns the camshafts, and is hidden under the timing cover. The accessory belt that drives the A/C and other accessories is exposed and easy to get to. It just runs off the crank pulley on the front of the engine. The A/C compressor looks kind of like this (note the triangular shaped bit on the front of the pulley):

Belt can be seen if you look between the motor and the fender on the passenger side.

[untrueparadox]

I see, it's pretty low. The conditioner says to spray it on the surface of the belt that would touch the pulleys but that's a difficult part to reach.

I don't think it's ever been changed, honestly, throughout the 200k miles the car has been running. If my conditioner doesn't work, is it doable to change or tighten myself? I'm handy, but I don't much about cars. Changed my own oil every 5k, replaced my headlights and fog lights, fixed the power antenna, and not much else.

[MaximA32]

If it's not something you want to tackle yourself, I can recommend a shop in Lake Forest to do it. I know the owner personally so I have no issues about doing so.

[untrueparadox]

thats really far to go for a belt change, considering i live near pasadena. thanks for the offer tho.

[MinisterofDOOM]

If the belt is cracked (easiest to see where it wraps around a pulley...try and get a look at both sides since it hooks both ways around different pulleys) it probably needs replacing.

There's some good info including diagrams for the belts on page 10 here. See how the idler pulley is adjustable? You need to loosen the center lock on the pulley itself, then the vertical adjustment bolt will allow you to adjust tension.

[MaximA32]

Ha. Sorry. My southern California geography isn't all that great.

[untrueparadox]

its too late today, 12:00 here. wont be able to see anything. ill post back tomorrow.

i dont blame you, nobody knows where arcadia is until the invention of google maps and gps navigation. its near pasadena, like an hour drive to lake forest.

and thanks for pointing me to the manuals, i didnt know we even had a whole database full of those at http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/i30/1998_I30/
Modified by untrueparadox at 12:36 AM 8/10/2009

[loystock]

Just a clarification, the I30 has a timing chain, not a timing belt, and it usually lasts for the lifetime of the car. Other vehicles have timing belt which have to be replaced at 90,000, more or less.

Spraying WD-40 is a patch, not a fix, will cause the belt to slip and even deteriorate over time. Since the drive belts were replaced a year ago, they should be in good condition and you only need to adjust the belt tensioner, as recommended by the minister. But do not over-tighten - could damage the pulleys/bearings.

[untrueparadox]

how can i judge if i tightened it too far or not? i know the manual has specific numbers, but i have no idea how to apply it. supposedly, 22lbs of force should only move the belt only 0.12". i tightened it this morning based on pure judgement of sense and returned the can of conditioner. the belt appeared to be in great condition, no cracks or chips horizontally, only a few hairline cracks vertically. the a/c works without warming up now, just that i have no sense of how far i tightened it.

[loystock]

Unless you have a force meter,it's approx 1/4" to 1/2" deflection, depending on the length of the span from pulley to pulley. Try to measure it from the longest span possible. The longer the span, the higher will be the deflection of the belt at the center.

[untrueparadox]

i see. i turned the tension bolt about 1/3 of a full turn and the a/c stopped squeaking. it was very tight and i had to use like a hammer on the wrench to get the bolt. should be enough for now.

[loystock]

Ooopppsss! The 'minister' advised you earlier to loosen the lock nut on the tensioner pulley before turning the adjustment bolt. Looks like you didn't and simply turned the bolt. Be careful. Next time you may not be so lucky and strip the bolt.

[untrueparadox]

don't worry. i read p10 of the ma section. i did loosen the top nut that secures the tension bolt in place. unfortunately, when i went back and tightened the nut to secure it, somehow it let out a loud crack sound. its still holding on tight, but i think i might have stripped the nut.