How to check ignition coil on nissan pathfinder 2001 - Help

[nguyenmd]

Does anyone knows how to check the ignition coil resistance values for coil #1, and other coil. I had the coil 1, 3 removed from the car due to code p1320, and code p0301. I dont want to replace all six coils unless they are bad. Thank you for reading and help.
v/r,

Nguyenmd

[asnorton44]

I had wanted to do the same but I was never able to find out how to check out resistance. I ended up just replacing all six coils, which I believe is recommended. They were about $75 a peice.

Sorry I have no more info!

[fleurys]

here you go....

[ARKQX33V6]

Because its a go-no go test with a zero reading compared to anything else but a zero, MAKE SURE TO ZERO YOUR METER. An analog meter allows you to place the needle at "0" but a digital starts off in open circuit at "OL" and when you short the leads a good meter will read the resistance of the leads. Take this value away from your actual test to see if you really do have a resistance value. Remember about "auto reading" and allow time for the meter to self direct to the correct range. Also be certain to test at the correct temperature, find what temperature the spec for testing is recommended at. Too hot or too cold will change the resistance and you could be throwing a good coil away.

[604-Allstar]

When testing the ignition coil which prongs should I be testing? I see on the coil there are 3 markings "IB", "G", and "+". Do you test IB and G?

also is there a range the the resistance should come between?

[saveth]

If you know you have a bad coil, but just not sure which one. With the car running, disconnect one of the coils and if your car stutters a little you know that one is good. If it makes no difference, very good chance that one is bad. I know there are other ways to check the coil, which are safer, but none of them are as quick. I recommend doing it when the engine is cool.

[attofarad]

Since this old thread got drug up:

I replaced a bad coil with one from Oreilly Auto, who had it in stock at a store open at 10pm. That one failed within two weeks, but I had meanwhile ordered a Hitachi coil (OEM manufacturer) as a spare from RockAuto for $51. Got my money back from Oreilly, and the Hitachi one is still fine 9k miles later. I have two more spares (cylinder 1 coil in my 2001 QX4 is a different shape than 2-6), which I carry with me on trips to the mountains.

[604-Allstar]

If you know you have a bad coil, but just not sure which one. With the car running, disconnect one of the coils and if your car stutters a little you know that one is good. If it makes no difference, very good chance that one is bad. I know there are other ways to check the coil, which are safer, but none of them are as quick. I recommend doing it when the engine is cool.

Unfortunately when I pull each coil the engine stutters the same amount.

[attofarad]

When testing the ignition coil which prongs should I be testing? I see on the coil there are 3 markings "IB", "G", and "+". Do you test IB and G?

also is there a range the the resistance should come between?

This is on two new Hitachi (OEM maker) coils; same result for both:


Between IB and G, I get about 1.5 kohms, whichever polarity (swapping leads).

Between G and +, I get open circuit with one polarity, 2.6 Megohms in the other polarity.

Between IB and +, same result as between G and +.


I expect that these numbers could vary quite a bit from good part to good part. I also expect that the coil
can fail in ways not covered by the factory manual clip in the post above, which seems to just cover the
case of a blown (shorted) power FET gate terminal.

Again, I recommend not to buy aftermarket coils from just whatever maker -- get OEM or Hitachi.

Are you scanning for codes? When I had a bad coil (from codes, and very rough engine), I swapped coils
to verify that the codes moved with the code.