420sxse wrote:You mean N/A? ... Step back...take a deep breath...now be realistic.
The lower end of this range is realistic (crank HP, maybe not wheels). I'm working on a plan to do just that.
(warning... there is no emissions testing where I live. This plan will probably put NO2 over the limit, but reduce CO, HC, and even CO2 (when not driving hard). If emissions testing where you live involves stupid labels on parts instead of actually testing the emissions, it'll be illegal).
The goal is a daily driver SOHC putting down higher than stock torque throughout it's range, and ~140rwHP@6000, with good mileage, good reliability, acceptable noise, good acceleration, and good driveability.
The current plan:
1) Fix the mileage problem on my daily driver (crazy rich in open loop mode).2) Replace the intake on my DD with one that meets my specs (a short cold-air, with the filter under the stock battery location (the battery has been re-located))3) Replace the pluged CAT on my DD with a PDM high-flow.4) Chip the ECU on my DD to tune for 92 Octane. 5) Tune this setup on a dyno. Also tune another chip a little richer. 6) Buy a running 89-90 SOHC engine with to rebuild (engine2).7) Try to find a junkyard 89 240sx SOHC manufactured in 1988 or January 1989, and snag the pistons. If that fails, or they're unuseable, buy nismo flat-tops (after I know whether I need 89.5mm or 90mm).8) Buy a KA24E overhaul kit and timing chain kit, (haven't decided on cam yet, looking for a mild one that's not a regrind).8.b?) I'm considering a solid lifter conversion (
http://www.hybridka.com ) and stronger springs, but I've not decided yet. I don't know if I'll be building the engine to breathe enough to produce useful power at the RPMs solid lifters are a benefit for. If it were a race engine I'd use solid lifters and ITBs for sure. 9) Dis-assemble engine2 and inspect as per FSM overhaul procedure.10) Have the block, head, etc. cleaned and the block, head, and crank magnafluxed.11) Have Crank, Rods, Pistons, Pins, etc ballanced.12) Portmatch Intake side of head and smooth out any casting flash and major bumps, and smooth down a bit (not polish) taking away as little material as possible.13) Remove casting flash from inside of intake manifold and smooth it down a bit (velocity = good, fuel pooling = bad). Judging by the KA's torque, the engineers at Nissan did a great job designing these for a daily driver.14) Get or fabricate some form of header tuned for 3000~5000 RPM with good flow at higher RPM15) Port and polish the exhaust side of the head.16) Multi-angle valve job (and stiffer springs?)17) aquire or design and fabricate a quiet, high velocity exhaust and install it on my DD.18) Assemble engine2, hooking up for temperature, and oil pressure guages. Leave clutch fan off.19) Install an aluminum or chromolly flywheel.20) Install the rich chip in my ECU, and Oil pressure, coolant temp and voltage guages in the pocket under my stereo.21) Install engine2 in my DD, along with electric fans.22) Wrap header.23) Break in engine224) Dyno tune it & re-chip. 25) Break in more
26) once I know it works, sell old engine and/or plans.
It'll probably cost me $2500~$3000.
?? Shocks/struts ... other suspension components??? rebuild transmission/differential/wheel bearings?? Lighter wheels (got teardrops right now)
My engine in my daily driver is fairly strong, so I may skip rebuilding the bottom end and just buy a head and intake runners to rebuild (which rules out bumping the compression ratio, unless I shave it).
I don't know for sure if this is a good plan, I've not built a motor before. I'm just going on my research.
Perhaps DeviousKA could chime in on this one. He's built many built NA KA's before.