How to bleed clutch? Im confused (Yes I searched still confused)

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Chaotic_Warlord
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Car: Black 5 speed Swapped 1995 240sx
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First let me say I did a search and Im still very very confused...

Hey I am doing the 5 speed swap on my 95 S14 and I am on the final stretch. I am really really really confused on how to bleed the clutch hydraulic lines. I have the stainless conversion lines hooked up, I have the line going from th eClutch MC down the firewall and connected to therubber line that was attached to the slave cylinder. When I push on the clutch pedal it goes all the way back and locks in the down position. Pardon the picture its drawn in MS paint...

My question is this, is the pedal supposed to lock in the down when there is no pressure from the master cylinder (if you take the clutch pedal out of th ecar and push on it it pushes back to a stopper and just stays there but if you pull up on it it pops back up with little to no effort.)

Also how do I know the fork that goes from the Clutch MC to the pedal assembly is adjusted to the proper length? Its a brand new MC so i know thats not the problem.

Finally where exactly do I bleed the lines at? Do I bleed it at the Clutch MC or at the Slave? How many lines should there be attached to the Slave? As it looks now there is one rubber line attached to the Slave, should that line attach to the transmission or does the steel braided conversion connect to the slave line?

Im so confused. I have a drawing I made on MS Paint but its not loading into the NICO image gallery but I will try to post it again in a bit, I dont think the firewall will let it go through.



irocknrol2
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 3:37 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatch/1993 240sx Coupe

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There is only one line that attaches to the slave cylinder. There is a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Yes, the pedal will usually go to the floor and stay there when there is no pressure.

To bleed the system, push the pedal 5 or 6 times and hold it down and then open the bleed screw. You will have to repeat this several times until only a stream of fluid comes out. Remember to keep the fluid full in the reservoir.

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Chaotic_Warlord
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irocknrol2 wrote:There is only one line that attaches to the slave cylinder. There is a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Yes, the pedal will usually go to the floor and stay there when there is no pressure.
Where on the slave cylinder is the bleed nipple? Do I screw it all the way out or just a little bit. Never had to bleed a clutch on a RWD before, I'm used to FWD.

irocknrol2
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 3:37 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatch/1993 240sx Coupe

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It should be right above where the line attaches to the slave cylinder. It looks like the bleed screws on your brake calipers. Just open it a 1/2 turn or more.

LayNLow240
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Car: 92 240 coupe

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Chaotic_Warlord wrote:
Where on the slave cylinder is the bleed nipple? Do I screw it all the way out or just a little bit. Never had to bleed a clutch on a RWD before, I'm used to FWD.
clutch bleeding is clutch bleeding. if its hydro clutch, it can be bled, and they are all the same for the most part. its like brakes. all cars have them, and they can be bled, and its all the same.look at the top one, then look on the left side. see the hole in the bottom? thats where the line goes. see the thing above that? thats the bleed nipple. get a friend,parent,dog,alien,etc(take your pick) to get in and pump the clutch with their hand at first. have them pump it up 5-7 times, then tell them to hold, and they will hold it on the floor, and you will open the nipple, then close it.(while still having the pedal to the floor) repeat the process untill the pedal has pressure or untill there are no bubbles coming out of the bleeder. youll need a clear line to fit over it.and the configuration should be like this: clutch master cyl>hardline(long, goes wayy under)>then your stainless line should be next, then your slave cyl is at the end. and youll have to bend the hardline where it meets the stainless line unless you got a longer line. if you need to bend it you can do it by hand, do it slowly and dont crimp/kink it.Quote »Also how do I know the fork that goes from the Clutch MC to the pedal assembly is adjusted to the proper length?[/quote]youll need to drive the car to figure that out. it adjusts the engaugement point of the clutch. goes from low near the floor, to way out near the very top. also if your brand new clutch is slipping, this could be the reason for it if its misadjusted. it could be too far off and not totally disengaging the clutch.and yes, when theres a leak or alot of air in the system, the clutch will get sucked down to the floor quick and not come back up on its own.


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