Chaotic_Warlord wrote:
Where on the slave cylinder is the bleed nipple? Do I screw it all the way out or just a little bit. Never had to bleed a clutch on a RWD before, I'm used to FWD.
clutch bleeding is clutch bleeding. if its hydro clutch, it can be bled, and they are all the same for the most part. its like brakes. all cars have them, and they can be bled, and its all the same.look at the top one, then look on the left side. see the hole in the bottom? thats where the line goes. see the thing above that? thats the bleed nipple. get a friend,parent,dog,alien,etc(take your pick) to get in and pump the clutch with their hand at first. have them pump it up 5-7 times, then tell them to hold, and they will hold it on the floor, and you will open the nipple, then close it.(while still having the pedal to the floor) repeat the process untill the pedal has pressure or untill there are no bubbles coming out of the bleeder. youll need a clear line to fit over it.and the configuration should be like this: clutch master cyl>hardline(long, goes wayy under)>then your stainless line should be next, then your slave cyl is at the end. and youll have to bend the hardline where it meets the stainless line unless you got a longer line. if you need to bend it you can do it by hand, do it slowly and dont crimp/kink it.Quote »Also how do I know the fork that goes from the Clutch MC to the pedal assembly is adjusted to the proper length?[/quote]youll need to drive the car to figure that out. it adjusts the engaugement point of the clutch. goes from low near the floor, to way out near the very top. also if your brand new clutch is slipping, this could be the reason for it if its misadjusted. it could be too far off and not totally disengaging the clutch.and yes, when theres a leak or alot of air in the system, the clutch will get sucked down to the floor quick and not come back up on its own.