how to adjust high beams on 1990 300zx

[Big Dawg1]

I can adjust the low beam with a simple screw on the side, but I do not see an adjustment screw for the high beams.
Is there something special that must be done in order to adjust the high beams? If it is just an adjustment screw like the low beams, can someone point me in the right direction
One beam is higher than the other so am trying to bring them more in line with each other.
Thanks
BD

[NolimitZ32]

Haven't done it in a while but from what I remember the adjustment is for the entire assembly so you adjust both together.

[DCaff300ZX]

Haven't done it in a while but from what I remember the adjustment is for the entire assembly so you adjust both together.

Agreed, my experience and memory is that there is a height screw and rotational screw, usually rusted frozen from lack of protection, both adjust the light platform and both bulbs are in the light body on that platform. The Z32 lights are a sight to behold once removed and studied, a work of tech in and of themselves for a simple headlight.

[Big Dawg1]

Thanks for the help.
I know where the height screw is but where is the "rotational screw"?
I've taken off the center panel (where the filters are) but don't see anything that would move the light housing left to right.

[itsa300zx]

Read this article, about half way down shows the usdm adjustment locations

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forum ... Hoppy.html

[Big Dawg1]

Itsa300zx
Perfect!
Thanks...this is just what I was looking for.

[Big Dawg1]

itsa300zx
One lasts question:
I found that graphic to adjust the light but couldn't figure out the height (from the ground to center of the high-intensity zone) for the low beam nor the correct horizontal distance of the beam between the two high-intensity zone.
Anyone have an idea approximately how high (or low) the beam should be at 25 ft so as to not blind oncoming cars with these new LED lamps?

[BenWP]

I think you'll find the answer in the above linked article. The 25' test with the aiming tools attached seems to work for me.

[itsa300zx]

Paragraph just above the adjustment picture: H = height of lamps on car.

“Really Old School Aiming Headlights on the Wall Approach

Under the headlights on the wall approach you need to make a grid on the wall using tape. Up to Five vertical pieces of tape can be used to mark the center of each headlight as well as where the center of the car would be if it were pressed up against the wall.

The next step in the wall alignment processes to place a Horizontal tape line on the wall as well. To position this line, a measurement is taken from the ground in front of the car to the midpoint of the light being inspected. Since the 300zx low and high beams are side by side the measurement would be the same for each of them. This measurement is used to position the horizontal tape on the wall at this same height while intersecting the vertical pieces of tape. The standard procedure is then to back up the car 25’ (over flat ground) and then see where the turned on lights illuminate the tape. The light of one light would be blocked off while adjusting the other. (Do not drape anything over the headlight though, it can overheat and melt or warp the plastic housing). A large piece of cardboard or other object a foot or so away should do.”

WL= 42” +/- 4”

[NolimitZ32]

Ultimately you're better off finding a long straight drive flanked by walls with low lighting and adjust at night. If you can get into an exterior storage facility with long rows that's usually the perfect setup.

[Big Dawg1]

Thanks, everybody.
I got my new LED projector headlights in and properly adjusted...and no glare to the oncoming drivers. So much better than those 30-year-old Halogens. Yea...everyone wins.