HOW-TO: 2013+ R52 AWD Pathfinder Front/Rear Differential Gear Oil Change

[delturcious]

Just got done doing a fluid exchange on my cousin's 2013 AWD Pathfinder, and I couldn't find a good guide for the process. I'm a Mazda guy (blasphemy, I know), so things were put together a little differently than I'm used to. Hopefully this will make it easier on the next person as there were a couple surprises for me before I found the manuals on this website. Thank you to whoever scanned and made the entire FSM available!

The fluid looked great at 95k miles even though it was probably the first time it had ever been done. This vehicle has never been off road or driven hard though.

Please let me know if I missed anything

References:

• Driveline: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder ... er/DLN.pdf
• Fluids/materials: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder ... der/MA.pdf

Torque Specs:

• Rear plugs 13 ft-lbs (DLN-123 SEC 380 items 2 and 11)
• Front plugs 26 ft-lbs (DLN-76 items 3, 17, and 31)

Tools:

• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 8mm allen head socket
• 10mm allen head socket
• extensions (3/8" drive assortment in various lengths)
• oil drain pan
• gear oil bottle pump
• (optional) 3/8" breaker bar

Materials:

• Gear oil Page MA-16 says 75w90 rear 0.5L; 80w90 front 0.31L. I put Lucas full synthetic 75w90 in both, but that's up to you. Only need one quart/liter total if you use the same for both.
• Lots of paper towels
• Replacement plugs (If desired. Manual says use new ones; I didn't)
• Thread locker

Rear is easier; we'll start there (DLN-113).

1. Raise vehicle to comfortable working height on LEVEL surface. Vehicle must be level for correct oil level fill. I can slide underneath without jacking it up, but it would have been nice to have it higher.
2. Remove FILL plug using 8mm allen socket. This is pointing straight BACK, and a 2"-3" extension will fit through the frame into this plug.
3. Aim oil pan.
4. Remove DRAIN plug using 8mm allen socket. This is pointing LEFT.
5. Let oil completely drain.
6. Use new drain plug or add thread locker to old drain plug and torque.
7. Insert bottle pump hose through frame hole used to remove fill plug and into rear differential fill hole.
8. Pump until fluid begins to come out from the fill hole.
9. Remove bottle hose.
10. Use new fill plug or add thread locker to old fill plug and torque.
11. Wipe off any spilled oil.
12. Done!

Front (DLN-69):

1. Raise vehicle to comfortable working height on LEVEL surface. Vehicle must be level for correct oil level fill. I can slide underneath without jacking it up, but it would have been nice to have it higher.
2. Remove FILL plug using 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar. NO SOCKET REQUIRED--3/8" square hole on plug like the belt tensioner. This is pointing straight BACK, and you CANNOT fit an extension on it.
3. Aim oil pan.
4. Cover exhaust flex sections with something to keep the oil from soaking into the woven areas.
5. Remove bottom DRAIN plug using 10mm allen socket (different than rear). This is pointing straight DOWN. It's above the area around the right side exhaust flex pipe. These are reusable flanged plugs unlike the rear.
6. Let oil completely drain.
7. (Probably optional, but I had mistakenly done this first. Not required per FSM) Remove side DRAIN plug using 10mm allen socket. This is pointing LEFT. It's identical to the bottom plug. If you look directly above the left side flex pipe you'll see it poking out.
8. Add thread locker to old drain plug(s) and torque.
9. Insert bottle pump hose into front differential fill hole. I went over the exhaust flex sections from the left side to get enough clearance for the pump.
10. Pump until fluid begins to come out from the fill hole.
11. Remove bottle hose.
12. Add thread locker to old fill plug and torque.
13. Wipe off any spilled oil.
14. Done!

It's also a good idea to confirm that you both removed and added a little less than a quart/liter overall prior to driving.

[Rogue One]

Welcome aboard, and awesome write-up!