Reposted as I forgot to provide a descriptive title
I am still waiting to hear from TEXASOIL on my active suspension question but would be interested to hear from anyone with a fully working system about how the ride actually feels. I am assuming it should give a very cushioned ride with the benefit of minimal body role.
Mine feels gritty as if you can feel the texture of the road surface and is noisy and quite lively over large bumps. It does however seem to be leak free, has no warning lights on the dash to suggest anything is wrong and rises and falls on start up, shut down. The N / H works. I tried to turning of the N/H switch 20 times to get the diagnostics to run a test but it does not seem to want to cooperate
David
How should a Q45a ride?
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elwesso
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Do you have the FSM??? If not, I could send you the section covering the active suspension..... Even if you only get through like the first 20 pages, you'll know if its good or bad.......
But a fully working active Q should be basically perfect..... And when you say lively, do you mean like bouncy????
But a fully working active Q should be basically perfect..... And when you say lively, do you mean like bouncy????
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rover3l
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- Car: 1998 Q45, 2000Q45 Anniversary, 1965 Rover 3L,
Thank you for the kind offer but I bit the bullet and downloaded the FSM in Adobe format from the Nissan web site.
The ride is bouncy it is almost the opposite. It is stiff, so when you go over a bump it is quite hard but dispenses with the bump in one go (no after bouncing). To me it feels like a firmly riding sports car with virtually no roll around corners, great on smooth roads but fidgity of bumpy roads. On very beat up roads the back end is rattly as if something is loose. I need to check underneath to see if anything is not tied down.
When the car is running the active suspension seems to work after a fashion in that it settles down at the rear after a few seconds and when I turn it off it jumps sharply at the rear about 1/2 to 1 inch. Also when it is running I can move the corners of the car down so there is movement in the strut. When the car is off there is virtually no movement in the strut.
The active sus light goes off on starting and the fluid level is full. I did try the diagnostic test as suggested by the manual and others in the forum by moving the N/H switch back and forth 20 times but I don't seem to be able to get the test to run. Is it supposed to run this test even if the active sus light is not on
Thanks
David
The ride is bouncy it is almost the opposite. It is stiff, so when you go over a bump it is quite hard but dispenses with the bump in one go (no after bouncing). To me it feels like a firmly riding sports car with virtually no roll around corners, great on smooth roads but fidgity of bumpy roads. On very beat up roads the back end is rattly as if something is loose. I need to check underneath to see if anything is not tied down.
When the car is running the active suspension seems to work after a fashion in that it settles down at the rear after a few seconds and when I turn it off it jumps sharply at the rear about 1/2 to 1 inch. Also when it is running I can move the corners of the car down so there is movement in the strut. When the car is off there is virtually no movement in the strut.
The active sus light goes off on starting and the fluid level is full. I did try the diagnostic test as suggested by the manual and others in the forum by moving the N/H switch back and forth 20 times but I don't seem to be able to get the test to run. Is it supposed to run this test even if the active sus light is not on
Thanks
David
A fully functioning active rides softer than a normal Q. It uses a lot of the available travel, you can see this when you ride next to one-you can't feel it inside. The suspension responds faster than you can feel, so there is no lean (until over .5 G, so you don't start thinking you are invincible), dive or squat, and it is level regardless of load. It is a delight to drive or ride in.
When you turn it off, it should settle over a period of about 3 minutes.
Rattling noises may be the sway bar bushings front and rear. Since the active has more travel, at least when its working, I found it really went throgh those bushings quickly.
You undoubtedly have flat accumulators. The test checks electrical, pressure, valve functions, not gas.
When you turn it off, it should settle over a period of about 3 minutes.
Rattling noises may be the sway bar bushings front and rear. Since the active has more travel, at least when its working, I found it really went throgh those bushings quickly.
You undoubtedly have flat accumulators. The test checks electrical, pressure, valve functions, not gas.
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rover3l
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Thanks for the detailed reply fxjackso, it really helps to have this description and I agree it probalby is the flat accumulator problem everyone talks about. I did get the test to finally run by switching the N/H control 20 times and it came up with 5 flashes in a quick sequence followed by a pause then another 5 quick flashes and so on. Another member seemed to agree that this means everything is ok I guess from the electrical point of view only. I take your point that the flat accumulators would not show on this?
What is a bit strange to me is that the car will rise and fall depending on whether the switch is in N or H postion and after the car has been running and turned off the rear end will kick up a little after about 30 seconds or so. It seems therefore as if the accumulators are partly working, do you agree. Does this magnitude of accumulator problem require me to change them all or is there some level of fix I can do.
Note there does seem to be travel in the suspension as I can push the corners of the car down when it is running whereas there is virtually no travel when it is switched off
Thanks
DAVID
What is a bit strange to me is that the car will rise and fall depending on whether the switch is in N or H postion and after the car has been running and turned off the rear end will kick up a little after about 30 seconds or so. It seems therefore as if the accumulators are partly working, do you agree. Does this magnitude of accumulator problem require me to change them all or is there some level of fix I can do.
Note there does seem to be travel in the suspension as I can push the corners of the car down when it is running whereas there is virtually no travel when it is switched off
Thanks
DAVID
The only one that I know that has a write up of the procedure is TexasOil. When I thought I was going to keep mine active, he sent me the instructions. I lost track of the info because I had my car converted from active suspension to standard.rover3l wrote:I would certainly consider doing this DIY. Has anyone on the web site written about how to do this. Is any special equipment needed etc?. I did a search but didn't find anything
The manul that he provides does not tell you how to recondition the accumulators, it tells you how to take them on and off.
The rear end jump may be a problem with the rear pressure control unit, but it is an annoyance, not a major problem. Ignore it.
You can DIY the accumulators. You can also do it in stages. As you have read, there are nine. They have different functions.
Each strut has a small accumulator. It's purpose is to absorb bumps quickly. There are also 5 other units (main and pressure control F&R, and one by the pump) that are used to store up pressure so the system can act quickly when the sensors detect a bump, or dive, squat, or cornering "G" force.
To completely rebuild, you'd need to be sure all 9 are charged. To smooth the ride, the four strut accumulators, which are on the actuators, are a start. The next three restore the ability to control the car, and the 2 small ones, the least crucial, speed up the reaction time slightly.
When all are working-amazing!
Keith Bowers (Texasoil) recharged mine, and I installed them. It's time consuming but not difficult. You will appreciate the system even more when you see the quality of the assemblies.
You can DIY the accumulators. You can also do it in stages. As you have read, there are nine. They have different functions.
Each strut has a small accumulator. It's purpose is to absorb bumps quickly. There are also 5 other units (main and pressure control F&R, and one by the pump) that are used to store up pressure so the system can act quickly when the sensors detect a bump, or dive, squat, or cornering "G" force.
To completely rebuild, you'd need to be sure all 9 are charged. To smooth the ride, the four strut accumulators, which are on the actuators, are a start. The next three restore the ability to control the car, and the 2 small ones, the least crucial, speed up the reaction time slightly.
When all are working-amazing!
Keith Bowers (Texasoil) recharged mine, and I installed them. It's time consuming but not difficult. You will appreciate the system even more when you see the quality of the assemblies.
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Q45tech
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1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
An experienced tech can change all 9 in a long day, then wait the 2-3-4 days for the system to self purge. Must be cranked 2-3 times per day and wait.We charge $1000 labor, with customer supplying all parts .....drop shipped to us and give 9 bad ones back to the customer to return for his deposit credit.
Seem to remember it as costing the 2 customers roughly $2,200 including 2 way air freight. You have to give KEN a credit card deposit in case you don't return the cores.
We have rebuilt 2 and converted 15 to date. Plus 2-3 had some pump replacements, 2-3 some individual struts..........about 12 customers who do nothing....just ride the buckboard!
Had a run this year of failed air shocks on older LS400 cost $1000 per strut installed.........usually the air pump has also failed from running so much! Another grand!
Seem to remember it as costing the 2 customers roughly $2,200 including 2 way air freight. You have to give KEN a credit card deposit in case you don't return the cores.
We have rebuilt 2 and converted 15 to date. Plus 2-3 had some pump replacements, 2-3 some individual struts..........about 12 customers who do nothing....just ride the buckboard!
Had a run this year of failed air shocks on older LS400 cost $1000 per strut installed.........usually the air pump has also failed from running so much! Another grand!
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rover3l
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- Car: 1998 Q45, 2000Q45 Anniversary, 1965 Rover 3L,
Thank you Texasoil
Could you clarify a point on this. If I replace the four main acctuators are you saying this will have the major impact on the ride quality or is it the case that the other 5 usually don't wear out. It would be great if I only have to do the 4 from a cost and time point of view.
I have read through the FSM a few times on the Active Suspension section but it would be helpful to for me to understand how easy a job this is and do I need any special tools etc. If I go ahead with this will you send me the replacements first and then I would return the old ones once the job is completed. What is the price for this including the deposit for the old ones.
I would also be interested to hear from anyone who has done this job in terms of how long it takes and any issues they ran into
Thanks
David
Could you clarify a point on this. If I replace the four main acctuators are you saying this will have the major impact on the ride quality or is it the case that the other 5 usually don't wear out. It would be great if I only have to do the 4 from a cost and time point of view.
I have read through the FSM a few times on the Active Suspension section but it would be helpful to for me to understand how easy a job this is and do I need any special tools etc. If I go ahead with this will you send me the replacements first and then I would return the old ones once the job is completed. What is the price for this including the deposit for the old ones.
I would also be interested to hear from anyone who has done this job in terms of how long it takes and any issues they ran into
Thanks
David
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texasoil
- Posts: 875
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'94 Infiniti Q45A
'94 Mercedes-Benz SL600
accumulators and ride on actives
the four strut accumulators are what absorb 90% of all the road rash and bumps. The active gets active on the reat like big potholes and swoopy roads.
Swapping out the strut units will get you a ride at least equal to standard susbension with new factory strut cartridges, and lots better than after market struts on a standard suspension..
Swapping out the strut units will get you a ride at least equal to standard susbension with new factory strut cartridges, and lots better than after market struts on a standard suspension..
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rover3l
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- Car: 1998 Q45, 2000Q45 Anniversary, 1965 Rover 3L,
Panic setting in
In a prior post I reported that I had successfully changed out the 4 nitrogen strut accumulators on my 1994 Q45active.
Today I was inspecting under the wheel arches and noticed that at least two of the struts seem to be leaking fluid from the top and running done the strut piston . The fluid is yellow / brown in color and not green like the active fluid. I am 99% sure there was no leak before changing the strut accumulators
HELP!!!!!!
Today I was inspecting under the wheel arches and noticed that at least two of the struts seem to be leaking fluid from the top and running done the strut piston . The fluid is yellow / brown in color and not green like the active fluid. I am 99% sure there was no leak before changing the strut accumulators
HELP!!!!!!
rover3l:
Can you give me a rundown of the costs and time you incurred when you changed out your struts?
I have a 95 active suspension that is starting to feel a little bit rough, mostly on bad/uneven pavement. I'm considering doing the swap-outs now to prevent any other damage.
Did you end up doing them yourself?
Can you give me a rundown of the costs and time you incurred when you changed out your struts?
I have a 95 active suspension that is starting to feel a little bit rough, mostly on bad/uneven pavement. I'm considering doing the swap-outs now to prevent any other damage.
Did you end up doing them yourself?
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rover3l
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- Car: 1998 Q45, 2000Q45 Anniversary, 1965 Rover 3L,
The costs were $250 each for the 4 strut accumulators plus a $400 returnable deposit until you send back your original units. The only other cost was for the active fluid which was about $15 x 5 for 5 liters.
In terms of time the total time to do the 4 strut accumulators was about 3 - 3.5 hours but it should be possible to do it in about 2 hours if you are smarter than I am. Texasoil (check members list) provides very clear written instructions and I would estimate the job to be at the simpler end of the spectrum of jobs to do.
Texasoil is very professional and supplied the recharged units quickly and has been helpful with any follow up questions I have had.
As I previously mentioned this job has produced the biggest single change I have experienced in a car. It has changed the Q45a from an excessivley hard riding car into a very smooth and responsive luxury car
In terms of time the total time to do the 4 strut accumulators was about 3 - 3.5 hours but it should be possible to do it in about 2 hours if you are smarter than I am. Texasoil (check members list) provides very clear written instructions and I would estimate the job to be at the simpler end of the spectrum of jobs to do.
Texasoil is very professional and supplied the recharged units quickly and has been helpful with any follow up questions I have had.
As I previously mentioned this job has produced the biggest single change I have experienced in a car. It has changed the Q45a from an excessivley hard riding car into a very smooth and responsive luxury car
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stevekijak
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Do a member search for his name. His website is: http://www.q45asuspension.com/ .