How much is too much?

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Jesda
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While listening to Duran Duran, I noticed that sometimes the computer display on the dash will dim a tiny bit everytime the bass hits. Am I killing my electrical system?

I have a twin-12" subwoofer and 500-watt amp powering only the sub box, as well as a Pioneer head unit. None of the other lights appear to dim or flicker.

How do I measure electrical load? By connecting my meter to the battery and measuring voltage?


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Rex
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In almost any car it's easy to overwork the battery or altenator, the Q would be no exception to this.

First, what battery are you running, I'd suggest you have at least a new-ish Redtop Optima.

Second, if you haven't, at least consider a second battery or a capacitor. The "cap" is designed specifically for what your describing - momentary burst of "12 volt power needs".

Lastly, qsiguy may be able to offer some real advoce, as I'm pretty sure he's in the 12v game.

DrewQ45
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Rex wrote:In almost any car it's easy to overwork the battery or altenator, the Q would be no exception to this.

First, what battery are you running, I'd suggest you have at least a new-ish Redtop Optima.

Second, if you haven't, at least consider a second battery or a capacitor. The "cap" is designed specifically for what your describing - momentary burst of "12 volt power needs".

Lastly, qsiguy may be able to offer some real advoce, as I'm pretty sure he's in the 12v game.
The cap will not reduce the overall load. It will smooth out the power delivery by reducing the AC component (spikes). You will see the light dimming disappear but the fact is, it does nothing to reduce the load.

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CrimsonQ
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what kind of wiring and connection are you using?

I run a 1500w amp off mine and have never had an issue of drain. past 2000w or so and I could see a problem but you should be at a safe level

TBrack
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I'm running 4-gauge power, 1000w amp, 2 12''. I notice my lights dimming a LOT when I had my old walmart battery. I have since switched to the Titanium one at Advance Auto Parts and it works great with no dimming. I do need a cap though since I don't want to kill my batt or alternator...

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friedrice2841
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Using a cap is not the answer. I have a 2 Farad cap. I am running (1) 400 Watt RMS Sub Amp and (1) 75x4 watt RMS amp to run my mid and highs.

My lights still dim when there is heavy bass burps.

A dry cell battery will take care of the problem. I believe Kinetik is one of the best dry cells for this application. The beauty of dry cells is that it doesn't matter how you mount the battery. It is guaranteed not to leak. You also might think about using a battery isolator. It is just a relay that only charges the 2nd battery when it needs it, so it doesn't continuously keep re-charging from the alternator.

A third option is to get a larger or re-wound alternator. I would caution anyone from doing this. By increasing the alt size (and output) you can potentially damage other electrical components in your car.

Most cars are designed efficiently. The alternator puts out enough power to make everything in the car work. There usually isn't alot of headroom for aftermarket stereos, lights, playstations, etc. Q's are no different.

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CrimsonQ
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You guys using cheap chinese amps or what?

Ive never had an issue over 3 years with that. Seems kinda weird to me?

I dont blast mine real loud or for long periods, but thats all i can see that might be different.

Ive always ran red tops though...

DrewQ45
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CrimsonQ wrote:You guys using cheap chinese amps or what?

Ive never had an issue over 3 years with that. Seems kinda weird to me?

I dont blast mine real loud or for long periods, but thats all i can see that might be different.

Ive always ran red tops though...
Could be an indicator/beginnings of a weak alternator (Jesda)... which creates a vicious cycle when a ramped up stereo system is added.

maxnix
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One kilowatt per channel RMS into 4 ohms, 20 - 20KHz with distortion < .05% ?

That would be a serious current draw.

superuber
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Jesda wrote:While listening to Duran Duran,
Jesda, you are way too young for Duran Duran!I don't think you were born when I was listening to that!

Rick (old, bald, ugly, stupid, fat guy)

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CrimsonQ
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Duran Duran, Human League, INXS, its all bad for your system Jesda. Its the music gods trying to save you!

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Jesda
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Thanks all for the help!

And DD is still putting out albums.

superuber
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What are they like 80?That makes Mic Jagger like 120.

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lino
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friedrice2841 wrote:
A third option is to get a larger or re-wound alternator. I would caution anyone from doing this. By increasing the alt size (and output) you can potentially damage other electrical components in your car.

Most cars are designed efficiently. The alternator puts out enough power to make everything in the car work. There usually isn't alot of headroom for aftermarket stereos, lights, playstations, etc. Q's are no different.
I replaced my Mercedes alternator that was a 65 amp with an AMG 150 amp unit from a CL55 without any problems. It has been running well for over a year now. I also replaced the battery with a Optima red top at the same time and used some 0 gauge wiring. All that while still using the factory Becker cassette deck .

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lino
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Jesda wrote:While listening to Duran Duran....
Ah Jesda..... why not share some funky town with the boys....let the real inner you be let out for those who don't know how attached you are to your 70s and 80s music .

TBrack
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friedrice2841 wrote:Using a cap is not the answer. I have a 2 Farad cap. I am running (1) 400 Watt RMS Sub Amp and (1) 75x4 watt RMS amp to run my mid and highs.

My lights still dim when there is heavy bass burps.

A dry cell battery will take care of the problem. I believe Kinetik is one of the best dry cells for this application. The beauty of dry cells is that it doesn't matter how you mount the battery. It is guaranteed not to leak. You also might think about using a battery isolator. It is just a relay that only charges the 2nd battery when it needs it, so it doesn't continuously keep re-charging from the alternator.

A third option is to get a larger or re-wound alternator. I would caution anyone from doing this. By increasing the alt size (and output) you can potentially damage other electrical components in your car.

Most cars are designed efficiently. The alternator puts out enough power to make everything in the car work. There usually isn't alot of headroom for aftermarket stereos, lights, playstations, etc. Q's are no different.
Good to know. I'll have to look into a dry cell since I'm always entertaining guests

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Jesda
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lino wrote:
Ah Jesda..... why not share some funky town with the boys....let the real inner you be let out for those who don't know how attached you are to your 70s and 80s music .
Man, I recently downloaded the extended version of Funkytown from iTunes. Driving to the post office has never been more fun.

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Q_SHIP
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Jesda wrote:Thanks all for the help!

And DD is still putting out albums.
No more ace of base?

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Skibane
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No alternator - regardless of how powerful it is - is capable of maintaining perfectly constant battery voltage.

The alternator voltage regulator does not react instantaneously whenever the battery voltage dips for fraction of a second - There is a "time constant" associated with the regulator, the purpose of which is to keep the alternator's output from rapidly oscillating on and off.

So, momentary dips in battery voltage aren't necessarily anything to worry about. As long as the voltage recovers quickly after each "thump" - and recovers to a healthy 13.8+ volts - the alternator isn't being taxed beyond its limits.

konatown
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Screw Ace of Bass, he needs some Jesus Jones

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qsiguy
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Skibane wrote:.....So, momentary dips in battery voltage aren't necessarily anything to worry about. As long as the voltage recovers quickly after each "thump" - and recovers to a healthy 13.8+ volts - the alternator isn't being taxed beyond its limits.
Chiming in a little late but I agree with Skibane. Nothing to worry about. People spend lots of money on caps, extra batteries, bigger wire, etc. but it's not always needed unless you really have a lot of current draw from your system, it just takes a second for your system to up the power for the demand. You might put an excessive load on the alternator and/or battery if you were to try and sustain a low bass frequency for an extended period of time but normal music rarely has tones like that. You would need to connect a frequency generator or put in a test CD that has various frequecies to test the system and find rattles.

If you feel the dimming is excessive have your battery and alternator checked. With a good battery dimming is pretty rare, again unless your system draws huge amounts of amperage.

squeefoo
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I had the same problem until I put a larger and better located ground on.


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