How much Horsepower can this handle?

[dkrep]

How much horsepower can the bottom end handle before replacing internals and getting head work?

And how much can the stock clutch hold?

[zozoka1212]

400 is a safe.

zozo

[dkrep]

ok 400 what? to the bottom end or the clutch or just all around

[joe603]

400RWHP is generally considered the limit for the VQ35. Forged internals can bump that number substantially.

[Satter66]

What about a 2005 G35 5AT transmission. Doesn't it need to be improved somewhat before adding more torque?

[TeflonG35]

You can always get the stillen upgrade for an auto trans. Thats about it. The 400hp range is still ok on the stock torque converter.

[Jacko3]

dkrep:

What does it matter, how much the clutch can handle. For example, If without S/C, your clutch is supposed to last 5 years, and then with S/C it lasts 3.5 years, you only lost 1.5 years in clutch life. I think the thrill of having an S/C in your car is worth all the trouble of replacing clutch more regulalry than normal. Afterall, if you can afford and S/C, then affording a clutch should not be that much of a problem.

By the way, I suspect if you don't use your S/C G-35 for racing---just for everyday street driving and occassional show-boating on the streets as king of the roads you reside in, your clutch should last just as long as it should have lasted without the S/C. Those who race routine are the ones who should worry about constant clutch replacement. I have constantly said on this forum, that the G-35, judging from my driving experience, is plenty capable and more than what the manufacturers intended. They designed the car to hold up to 200,000 miles. By the time you get to that point, there will be better Gs in the line up, and so I don't see a reason why anyone should worry about reliability, since I beleive the S/C in a G-35 can hold up reliability, perhaps up to 150,000 miles. At that point, you probabaly have gotten all the excitement and fun you could ever dreqam off from the car. Then, you sell it and live with the sweet memories of having a S/C G-35 Coupe, for the rest of your entire life. Isn't it worth it?

[Satter66]

Jacko3,

OK, so I read about the stillen transmission kit. You say that the stock versions good for 400 RWHP. Then why bother yet. I haven't saved up for my supercharger yet. Thats this Fall. How about those under drive pulleys you put on. Did you lose your AC and climate control or anything change on your power to radio, ac, lights, etc... I would like to do that next as my belt is wearing out.. 53000 miles now. Any advice on a good set? Do you like yours? Any power gains?

[etschell]

the auto stock is ok. i would replace the clutch if you had a manual, however.

[C-Kwik]

dkrep:

What does it matter, how much the clutch can handle. For example, If without S/C, your clutch is supposed to last 5 years, and then with S/C it lasts 3.5 years, you only lost 1.5 years in clutch life. I think the thrill of having an S/C in your car is worth all the trouble of replacing clutch more regulalry than normal. Afterall, if you can afford and S/C, then affording a clutch should not be that much of a problem.

While clutch life is important, I'd be more concerned with the clutch's ability to hold the new torque output a major power adder will provide. I don't know what kind of torque levels a G35 clutch is rated at, but if it can't hold the new torque levels, not only will the clutch wear much faster, but it will not be able to accelerate as fast as the car should with the new power adder...

[Jacko3]

C-Kwik:

That would be true! Then, would the after market clutch systems, mostly heavy duty clutches, be better, as they chatter a lot more than OEM clutches, and as they can be a little heavier to use? What do you think?

[Jacko3]

Satter66:

I was talking about the manual cluthc systems. For the auto, you probably will need to have your valve body re-inforced by sending it to Stillen. How do you do today? I haven't yet installed the non-under drive pulley. I have e-mailed unorthodox racing about twice and I keep getting the same answer----the 2007 G-35 Coupe pulley system is not yet available.

I feel the after market guys are forgetting that there is a 2007 G-35 Coupe. They seemed to have jumped from the 2005 - 2006 G-35 Coupe to a G-37. My model year (2007 G-35 Coupe) seems to be lost in transition. I hope that will change, someday. The 2007 G-35 Coupe 6MT has only two pulleys to be replaced. It does not have an idler puller---found this out when my mechnic was about to install an 05/06 G-35 Coupe pulleys. He had to stop, and told me to get the exact make for my car, as one pulley was underdrive and the other was OEM dimensions, while the other was an idler pulley.

Anyway, if the pulley does not show up in the next few months for my car model, I will shove the idea of pulleys and install a test pipe (much cheaper). Either way, I am still going to get some small gains with the test pipe and other mods.

I am just going to wait and see, for now!

[Satter66]

Jacko or anybody out there..

Do you lose any "comforts" the car gives by replacing the pully's and belts with a performance type? I'm sure there are some small gains. However, that part is different from a test pipe(which is loud). Both could be done.

[Jacko3]

Satter66;

Chad1200, another guy on this forum, will better able to discuss the comfort level and performance of underdrive pulleys.

[TeflonG35]

I have the UR underdrive pullies. I diden't notice much of a difference in creature comfort. Under WOT the lights will dim, but what do you expect.

Also they say don't use under drive pullies with a super charger. So keep your stock pullies if you intend to supercharge it later. UR also makes non under drive pullies that add power and will work with a supercharger.

[C-Kwik]

C-Kwik:

That would be true! Then, would the after market clutch systems, mostly heavy duty clutches, be better, as they chatter a lot more than OEM clutches, and as they can be a little heavier to use? What do you think?

Chatter is not representative of how good a clutch is. An organic disc can chatter like an inorganic one if the disc is poorly designed. Most organic clutches, both OE and aftermarket use marcel springs to create a more progressive take up. Most of the high performance clutches that use inorganic materials don't use a marcel as it allows for a stronger hub design. Couple the lack of a marcel with materials that have a high coefficient of friction and you instantly have a recipe that is much more prone to chatter.

A heavy duty pressure plate (stiffer sprung) doesn't have to have a heavy pedal feel either. Many stiffer pressure plates will be built with the fulcrum for the "fingers" shifted to increase the lever arm ratio. The ACT clutch I used in my turbo 240 had similar pedal effort as the stock clutch.

My personal preference is to use a clutch that uses an organic disc so long as quality unit with enough torque holding capacity is available.