how much Current should be pulled when the car is off?

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dfw240_EE
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Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2003 2:04 am
Car: 1992 240SX
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On the 1992 Nissan 240SX, no power roof, windows, locks, or radio, I know that some current should come out of the battery while the car is off, since the dash clock is always running. So my question is how much current should be pulled with the car off and seatbelts NOT moving?

I am currently reading 25mA on mine.

Something is up with my electrical system, and I am fishing through it now. First thing I am fixing is the ground cable. The lug for the negative battery terminal is grade A screwed.


foley
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Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2005 5:24 am
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Not sure on exact amounts, but 25ma sounds pretty low.

Why are you concerned about battery drain? What's the car doing?

Maybe it's something about 240's in dallas revolting against it being so F'ing hot in November... mine is on the fritz electrically too.

Have you fished through the pile of accessories to see if any of them are staying on that shouldn't be? Mine is wipers, radio, and dash clock backlight. Others have had other problems. I haven't seen a clear cut solution.

Mike
dfw240_EE wrote:On the 1992 Nissan 240SX, no power roof, windows, locks, or radio, I know that some current should come out of the battery while the car is off, since the dash clock is always running. So my question is how much current should be pulled with the car off and seatbelts NOT moving?

I am currently reading 25mA on mine.

Something is up with my electrical system, and I am fishing through it now. First thing I am fixing is the ground cable. The lug for the negative battery terminal is grade A screwed.

dfw240_EE
Posts: 1137
Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2003 2:04 am
Car: 1992 240SX
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The car wouldn't start. The battery later tested good, but the seat belts wouldn't move in their tracks (but the motors made noise), the radio wouldn't play, and when I turned the key EVERYTHING went dead.

I just checked the current out of the battery as an opening test, really the only test I could do at night with a flashlight.

The next day, it turned out to be a bad ground cable. Recently my old battery went dead, but the negative ground lug was frozen on. the nut holding it down was stripped, rusted, rounded, and overtorqued. In the end I had to get a friend over with a cutting wheel! In the process the old ground lug wound up so damaged that it wouldn't stay on tight at all no matter how much the replacement bolt was tightened.

So I changed the ground cable and tightened down the starter and removed the stereo. Any of those 3 things could have caused my car not to start, but the ground cable was the furthest from normal.

foley
Posts: 84
Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2005 5:24 am
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glad you got it worked out... wish mine were so easy


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