Hey I just got spl tension rods and tie rods and Im going to get it aligned soon and I wanted to know how much caster you would suggest I get for drifting. I know stock is 6-7 degrees, and from what I hear the more, the marrier (sp).
ThanksJosh
How much caster?
Re: How much caster? (ViperSRT10)
Kinda depends on driver preference and how much static camber you are running.
The new spl rods let you go up to 10 degrees, but 10 is pretty hard to run without rubbing everything if you are low.
I would say 7.8 to 9.
I run 8.2
The new spl rods let you go up to 10 degrees, but 10 is pretty hard to run without rubbing everything if you are low.
I would say 7.8 to 9.
I run 8.2
Re: How much caster? (naed240sx)
I only have a little bit of camber and Im not that low. Just have a strut/spring combo.
Re: How much caster? (ViperSRT10)
bump
any more input?
any more input?
Re: How much caster? (ViperSRT10)
lol what is "a little bit of camber"?ViperSRT10 wrote:I only have a little bit of camber and Im not that low. Just have a strut/spring combo.
Also, what tires are you running? Better tires benefit from more camber/castor.
I would say starting point of 1.5 camber and 7.8 castor and go from there.
Re: (ViperSRT10)
\ViperSRT10 wrote:I just have the camber you get from lowing the car about 1.5 inches. I don't know what degree. I have crappy snow tires on my car lol
You should know how much camber you have, because you should have gotten an alignment right after lowering your car.
If you have snow tires on your car I wouldn't even bother with castor. Your car is gonna handle poorly regardless.
Re: (naed240sx)
This I know, however I did not have the funds to do so.naed240sx wrote:\
You should know how much camber you have, because you should have gotten an alignment right after lowering your car.
Well I need to worry about caster because I am getting an alignment and can't afford to keep going to get an alignment. I will get newer/better tires soon and I want to be ready for them.naed240sx wrote:
If you have snow tires on your car I wouldn't even bother with castor. Your car is gonna handle poorly regardless.
Re: (ViperSRT10)
If you are gonna be getting some good tires (IE Azenis 615s or Hankook RS2 or Kumho Mx), not crap like es100s,ViperSRT10 wrote:Well I need to worry about caster because I am getting an alignment and can't afford to keep going to get an alignment. I will get newer/better tires soon and I want to be ready for them.
I would say run around 8 to 8.5.
Try to get an alignment plan. I got a 3 year plan and I can go in as often as I like for free, and because of this I got over 8 alignments last year alone.
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AmoebAssassin
- Posts: 2424
- Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 7:11 am
- Car: 1991 Base fastback 5spd, black
I agree with Dean on this one.
My personal tuning strategy with MacPhereson struts is that roll should be very limited, because Mac struts tend to generate poor camber curves and large roll center migrations under bump (adversely effecting your traction as load is transferred). Increasing the roll resistance implies that as load is transferred in cornering, roll will not occur as drastically, and while the effects of poor camber gain will be be avoided, the camber angle will not be negative enough for the wheel loading, and the tire will roll under.
To combat this, it is necessary to run more static camber to prevent tire roll-under. However, this will adversely effect your braking performance, so it is necessary to back off the camber slightly, and increase caster slightly (increasing caster causes more negative camber on the outside (loaded) wheel, and causes more positive camber on the inside (unloaded) wheel -- this is good!).
Personally, I will run about 2.5 to 3 degrees of negative camber, and 8 to 8.5 degrees of positive caster.
Be careful not to get too out of control with increasing your caster angle. Increasing caster causes jacking forces and increases mechanical trail, which can make it very difficult to steer, and can overheat your power steering system quickly!
One addendum to Dean's posts: Tires do not see improved traction directly from increased caster, but rather, the increased caster causes increased camber gains on the outside (loaded) wheel in steer. It is the increase in camber that the tire takes advantage of.
-Neel
My personal tuning strategy with MacPhereson struts is that roll should be very limited, because Mac struts tend to generate poor camber curves and large roll center migrations under bump (adversely effecting your traction as load is transferred). Increasing the roll resistance implies that as load is transferred in cornering, roll will not occur as drastically, and while the effects of poor camber gain will be be avoided, the camber angle will not be negative enough for the wheel loading, and the tire will roll under.
To combat this, it is necessary to run more static camber to prevent tire roll-under. However, this will adversely effect your braking performance, so it is necessary to back off the camber slightly, and increase caster slightly (increasing caster causes more negative camber on the outside (loaded) wheel, and causes more positive camber on the inside (unloaded) wheel -- this is good!).
Personally, I will run about 2.5 to 3 degrees of negative camber, and 8 to 8.5 degrees of positive caster.
Be careful not to get too out of control with increasing your caster angle. Increasing caster causes jacking forces and increases mechanical trail, which can make it very difficult to steer, and can overheat your power steering system quickly!
One addendum to Dean's posts: Tires do not see improved traction directly from increased caster, but rather, the increased caster causes increased camber gains on the outside (loaded) wheel in steer. It is the increase in camber that the tire takes advantage of.
-Neel