how many subs in a 240?

Post all your Nissan electronics, car audio and stereo questions here!
User avatar
BlackHat
Posts: 191
Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:38 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Hatchback

Post

If your speaker and amp are rated the same you just have to play with your levels some. You can blow your speaker with this kind of setup but as long as you figure out where the sound starts to get distorted you can avoid damage. Even if you mess up and kick it too loud it shouldn't instantly blow. It would take prolonged excess levels to mess up a speaker if the amp is rated the same.

I rated my sub the same as the amp and I've pushed it too hard a couple times (by accident) and haven't come close to blowing it yet. I just don't overdrive it constantly. I think I ended up with my amp set to about 70% power and I can crank the HU up as loud as I want without problems from the sub.


User avatar
young-gunn
Posts: 863
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:56 pm
Contact:

Post

ok, I screwed up. The holes were cut too big to mount the 10's and it's expensive lexan, so I've decided to take in my 10" subs, and pay the difference for 12's, I talked to the manager and they'll allow me to do this. I measured it out and they'll fit, the only thing is the box may be too small for a decent resident cavity. but my options are, 2 12" Clif Designs like the 10's I have right now (picture posted on last page) they're 600 watts each. Or I could pay an extra $40 and get 2 Ultra Linear subs that are rated at 700 watts each. (I'll post a picture of them here) The only thing is, the amp I have (got it for free) is rated at 1000 watts, would I need to buy a better amp to power these or is it possible to make this amp work fine?

I like the Clif Designs ones because they look better and have thicker foams on them, but I only like the ultra Linear ones because they would be louder, which seems like a better decision?

EDIT: ok, I've found that for $90cdn approx with the return of my subs, I could get 2 1200 watt subs, but the only thing is, is that's a lot of money that could be going into my car rather than just a stereo, I am also buying a Crossover when I'm there, no matter what speakers I get. But with these I would need a new amp. these look exactly like the subs I posted here, but they're a fair bit deeper. so again, whats your opinion on my situation?

Here's a pic of the Ultra Linear Subs taken from the site.

Modified by young-gunn at 10:41 AM 5/7/2006
Modified by young-gunn at 10:59 AM 5/7/2006

User avatar
PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

Post

young-gunn wrote:the only thing is the box may be too small for a decent resident cavity.
Please say, "Air Volume"

I don't recall, is this a sealed or ported box? If it's ported then the frequency response will change a bit, but the tuning frequency of the port will stay the same.

If it's a sealed box the frequency response won't be too different if the motor structure is the same(same model line). Note: If the driver can physically and thermally handle it you can extend the low end frequency response of the system, but this requires a LOT of power due to the fact that you're trying to overcome the airspring/compliance of the air in the enclosure.
young-gunn wrote:The only thing is, the amp I have (got it for free) is rated at 1000 watts, would I need to buy a better amp to power these or is it possible to make this amp work fine?
Any amp can power any speakers. Who makes the amp that you have? And what model is it? That way I can look up the stats and reviews.
young-gunn wrote:I like the Clif Designs ones because they look better and have thicker foams on them
What you're refering to is the surround. If it is foam I would not go with that foam. You should look for somethign with a butyl(sp?) rubber surround.

You don't need to look at the actual size of the surround, just look at the Xmax spec from the manufacture. A larger surround does allow for a larger Xmax(is the spider is able to accomadate it, and the VC won't come out of the gap), but it also reduces the actual surface area of the driver, thus reducing the volume of air that the driver moves, thus reducing SPL.


User avatar
young-gunn
Posts: 863
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:56 pm
Contact:

Post

Ok, my amp isn't a big brand name, I forget what it is, it's sitting in my grandpa's garage right now so I can't really check. It does have butyl Rubber, I just usually refer to it as foams, seeing as I am not very technical with stereo systems yet. I need to know if I would need a crossover or not basically for sending only bass to the Subs. The Amp says Mode- Full or LPF on it and there's an LPF dial that turns from 50 Hz to 250Hz. What should I also check if my amp has on it? I was thinking about getting a crossover, but if it is not a necessity, I may not buy one, although it is not very expensive.

Oh, and my box is a ported design

User avatar
PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

Post

young-gunn wrote:The Amp says Mode- Full or LPF on it and there's an LPF dial that turns from 50 Hz to 250Hz. What should I also check if my amp has on it? I was thinking about getting a crossover, but if it is not a necessity, I may not buy one, although it is not very expensive.
YOu don't need to buy another crossover, your amp has one built in. Switch it to LPF on and then set it to the same point that you set your main speaker's amplifier HPF to.

SO if the mains are crossed over at 80hz then set the LPF to 80hz

User avatar
young-gunn
Posts: 863
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:56 pm
Contact:

Post

ok, that's cool, and good to know. My amp is 1000 watts, would I need to upgrade to a better one for different subs? I understand it would be able to push the speakers, but would it be able to push them to thier potential, also which of the few speakers I mentioned above would be a smarter decision?

User avatar
BlackHat
Posts: 191
Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:38 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Hatchback

Post

What's the RMS on your Amp?

The on the box ratings are crap imo. They're misleading and retarded. The RMS ratings are the ones you need to look at.

User avatar
young-gunn
Posts: 863
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:56 pm
Contact:

Post

my amp, I have no clue, I got this thing for free out of a truck I was told to clean the stereo out of before it was sold (sounds like I robbed the truck lol, I didn't don't worry haha) so I never had anything more than this amp and the wiring, and 2 subs with a box (I didn't want to use this for my car, seeing as the box would fit funny and there are tweeters built into the box, I'll use it for a winter vehicle). And the RMS on those speakers I mentioned a couple posts above, It's approx. 1/2 of the actual rating of the speakers, If I remember right, I havn't been to that store in a while.

I found out that my amp is a Mobile Audio Rockbox, I forget the model number, like m100something something, I should've written it down.

Anyways, which pair of subs is the best idea? I'll go on and try to find some info on my amp. thanks.

Ok I found no info on my amp, but here's a pic I found of the same amp, so if anyone has seen this amp or knows anything about it....

Modified by young-gunn at 5:57 PM 5/8/2006
Modified by young-gunn at 6:02 PM 5/8/2006

User avatar
BlackHat
Posts: 191
Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:38 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Hatchback

Post

You'll want to pick speakers based on the Amps RMS rating. You need to write down the model number and check it out on Mobile Authority's website.

I didn't see where you said it was a 2-channel or Mono amp... Find out some more info on your amp before you choose speakers.

User avatar
young-gunn
Posts: 863
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:56 pm
Contact:

Post

Found info http://www0.shopping.com/xPF-A...Power There's info on it, after reading that, it doesn't seem like a very good amp. Lots of it is jibberish to me, maybe someone could explain this to me and suggest which speakers to buy.

User avatar
BlackHat
Posts: 191
Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:38 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Hatchback

Post

It's not a high end amp, but I wouldn't knock it. The one I have in my car is only 150Wx2 RMS. Still only brings me to 300W RMS.

It's a mono amp so you're not going to get stereo, but with subs you don't need that. At 500W you can push 2 250W speakers (RMS ratings) as long as you tune it right. It's really no problem if you have speakers with a higher RMS rating than the sub. It just means you'll have a harder time blowing them (go too far over and it should be impossible to).

As far as which speakers to get? The differences are opinionated. I like my Rockford 8"s. But speaker quality today is good on all of them. The technology has come along pretty nicely. Amps are what have suffered lately (That's why you'll see the big time enthusiasts getting old amps).

Hope that helped!

User avatar
PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

Post

HOly crap! THat thing is a beast!

1000w RMS @ 2 ohms!

Could you please look at the amp and tell me what th efuse rating is, and how many fuses there are?

User avatar
BlackHat
Posts: 191
Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:38 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Hatchback

Post

I don't see how you can wire 2 subs and get 2 ohms though. I'm sure most of the speakers he's looking at are 4 ohms anyway (2 ohm speakers were expensive when I was in the market for speakers).

I've heard of wiring them up to do lower ohm setups... Don't suppose anyone could enlighten me on how that works?

User avatar
PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

Post

BlackHat wrote:I've heard of wiring them up to do lower ohm setups... Don't suppose anyone could enlighten me on how that works?
YOu wire them in parallel

Here's the formula.

Ex: R1 = 4ohm R2 = 4ohm

Formula = (R1 x R2)/(R1 + R2)

So, ( 4 x4 )/ ( 4 + 4) = 2ohms total.

NOte that in a parallel circuit that the overall resistance will ALWAYS be lower then the resistnace of any one resistor.

Now for series: Just at the resistance.

SO R1 = 4ohm R2 = 4ohms.

Formula = R1 + R2 = total

SO, 4 + 4 = 8 ohms total

User avatar
BlackHat
Posts: 191
Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:38 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Hatchback

Post

You know what... I must have gone through a stupid moment. I knew that about electronics but never thought to apply it to speakers...

Is there a trade off for doing it that way? I mean, is there any downside to running parallel as opposed to Serial?

User avatar
PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

Post

NOpe: AS long as your amplifier can handle the impedance there's no difference.

Note: If your amp can handle 4 ohms, it is perfectly acceptable to run an 8,16 or 32 ohm speaker, but it is NOT ok ot run a 2 ohm or lower speaker.

*edit* Blackhat: Check out the 6x9 sub thread I created.

User avatar
PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

Post

Veriest1 wrote:I want to place a downward firing sub under the rear deck of my M3. What are the advantages/disadvantages of a 10" vs a 12"? I'd like for the setup to be sealed and easily removable for auto-x.

Should it really even be downward firing or is that all hype since bass is omnidirectional?

I'm want premium sound quality rather than huge decibals. I mostly listen to jazz, ska, Mraz, light/contemporary rock stuff, and some gospel thrown in once in a while.

Do I even need a ten inch sub for such an application or would a more generic off the shelf setup be better?

There... more random questions to entice PMQ.

Sorry for the threadjack... but it's on topic. Just not for a 240.
Sorry, I missed this post.

Look at my thread called 6x9 sub.

IT contains links to a very nice 6x9 and 6.5in sub

User avatar
young-gunn
Posts: 863
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:56 pm
Contact:

Post

ok, so I am thinking about getting the 700 watt, I found out there is a 1000 watt and the 1200 watt speakers. I think that I would get the 2 1000 watt ones because they are built like the 1200 watt ones but are cheaper. Because if I have 2400 watts or 2000 watts, I'll still only have the 1000 watt amp. I maybe could also wire up a 300 watt amp that I have. So would I be able to get like 500 watts rms to each of the subs If I wire them in paralell? because if so, the pair of subs add up to 1000 or 1200 watts RMS depending on which subs I get and I could power them well. If I can power both of the subs well, maybe I'd pay the extra $20 and get the 600 watt rms ones to minimize the risk of blowing them. So do you think I can get enough watts to power 2 500 watt RMS subs, if so, I'll pay the extra and have the 600 Watt RMS ones so I don't low them. I'm going there tommorrow probably. After I work on my car. So, this is like the last point I'll be wanting opinions and help. Thanks.

User avatar
BlackHat
Posts: 191
Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:38 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Hatchback

Post

I'd say go with the 600w subs. I think you'll be happier with them.

The 500w subs will work too though. Just tune the system right and they will work great too. The biggest thing is just figuring out where the subs overdrive, then staying below that. It's not terribly hard. But personally, if it's only a $20 difference. Just get the 600's...

User avatar
young-gunn
Posts: 863
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:56 pm
Contact:

Post

ok, but do you mean the 600 watt rms ones or the 600 watt peak ones? I'm guessing the 600 watt rms ones because you said the $20 difference, but the thing is these speakers are 600 watts RMS and my amp is 1000 watts PEAK. I would also be buying 2 subs, so my amp would have to push both.

Maybe there's a way I could incorporate my 300 watt amp with this one to get more power?

User avatar
young-gunn
Posts: 863
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:56 pm
Contact:

Post

Hey, today I went and bought 2 Ultimate T2 Subs 12". They look pretty nice and sound not bad, but the amp in the home stereo I used wasn't that great so I didn't hear it very loud. Ok, I want to know if there is anything I should be careful with on these subs, or anything I should know or precautions I should take. I g2g thanks.

User avatar
PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

Post

link to site with info please


Return to “Nissan Audio / Entertainment / Security”