How many of you guys/gals are running Turbo setup on stock ka24de. How much power are you guys putting to the wheels safely?

I AM, 328 Whp, t3/t4 57 trim .63 a/r, 555cc STI injectors, lightning MAF

That the power im talking about but people keep telling me that i will blow it past 250whp. What kinda power can i put with my setup-

Holset hy35
550c injectors
38mm wastegate
Log mani
z32 maf
and enthaply ecu.

I want to run in the 300's but everyone is scaring me off .

i cracked piston 3 on a t04e @ 9 lbs on a slipping clutch good luck build it now enjoy it later.

iLLusive240^ wrote:i cracked piston 3 on a t04e @ 9 lbs on a slipping clutch good luck build it now enjoy it later.

either your motor was already on its way out or you fuel management was crap

JonathanPrem wrote:That the power im talking about but people keep telling me that i will blow it past 250whp. What kinda power can i put with my setup-

Holset hy35
550c injectors
38mm wastegate
Log mani
z32 maf
and enthaply ecu.

I want to run in the 300's but everyone is scaring me off .

i dont see why you shouldnt get 300 pretty easily, just make sure your KA is in good condition and that your fuel management isnt crap, most people that say they " blew up a KA and they suck" probably tried to push too much out of a smaller turbo with stock SR injectors and a FMU, MANY people have proven that the KA24de can handle good power in stock form ( one guy went so far as to dyno his car at 500+ hp on a completely stock engine), the biggest issue is fuel management, but after 330-350hp you should probably look into building the bottom end.

I'm running an S15 T28 on my 170k mile stock KA with no problems.
The condition of your engine, including the tune is extremely important, many people don't get that and blow their engines up and blame the KA.

the tune is everything man...have it professionaly dyno tuned afterwards.
and if you change anything, have it done again....
i saw a 500hp sti go grenade because the owner wanted more and didnt tune again after some new go fast stuff.

its all about the tuning...... damn sometimes i miss my kat

I did the compression test and got 170 on all 4 cylinder. For fuel- I'm going to be using walbru fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. After i get everything running i will pick up apexi safc to fine tune the fuel on the dyno.

Moving to KA-T but compression health, bearing and oil pump health, engine torqued to spec, and quality gaskets is key. Just don't go nuts trying to make 400hp on bearing that have seen 13+ years of use, stock rods and pistons. But I am sure a healthy motor can make good power at 250-275HP reliably with a good dyno tune.

I put over a year of hard abuse on my last motor(cost a 150bux), it had the usuall timing rattle and 212psi across the board, ran her between 10and18psi daily.... I gave out with a wicked tap, sitting in the back yard awaiting a day to rise again lol say some material in the pan when I took it out,, Need to find it and repair so I have a back up I know can do 400whp if called upon.

The n60 is fine, you would need to make over 350 to max it IIRC...

the poeple speak the truth. its all in the tune. i kno its irrelevant but i hada b series in my civic blew it up in 2 weeks cuz i was on 7psi with a base map. got a new block and now im pushing 400whp ona stock motor with arp bolts and a aem professionally dyno tuned and belive me i beat the crap out that car on 15psi..i intended to repeat this for my s14
ive heard of that 300 ona stock ka thing.i think ill keep it round 280 lol

Stock motor with 169,000 miles at the time I turbo'd it. 175 psi compression on all cylinders. I havent dyno'd it at 11 psi but i would say ~260 rwhp. daily driven.There are #'s in my FS thread on lower boost settings.
ks-fs-1996-240sx-se-ka-t-lots-of-pics-t494416.html

300 is not out of the question at all. A a friend of mine told me he had a buddy that needed a ka for his s14. I had one that had about 217k on it that I sold him for $200 with trans. It ran fine but had the usual timing rattle, worn out stem seals amd leaked oil from... well everywhere. I helped him put it in and after a few months he showed up at my house and I noticed a huge spearco fmic and he had a dyno sheet in hand. It made 342whp with a precision sc61 and now prob had over 220-230k on it. It prob burns as much oil as it does gas but still, it made almost 350 wheel and still does to this day.

s13drifter88 wrote: It prob burns as much oil as it does gas but still, it made almost 350 wheel and still does to this day.

You can always add oil

JonathanPrem wrote:I did the compression test and got 170 on all 4 cylinder. For fuel- I'm going to be using walbru fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. After i get everything running i will pick up apexi safc to fine tune the fuel on the dyno.

Just so I understand, you're plan is to use a adjustable FPR only to add fuel in the beginning? Do you mean FMU? Just an adjustable FPR won't be good enough, you'll need a 6:1 FMU.

Stay away from the SAFC, get a ROM tune. They are almost the same $$ these days but the SAFC doesn't adjust your timing on boost.

WDRacing -

I'm actually getting enthaply tuned ecu and once i have some money to spare i'll pick up safc to fine tune it on the dyno.

one question- If i can adjustable FPR do i need safc to fine tune the fuel? and what does FMU stand for???

Edit- One more thing. Can i run stock Fpr with my setup? or should i get adjustable fpr off the bat?

The adjustable FPR will adjust the air fuel ratio over the entire rpm band, you want the SAFC to fine tune. Not that you'll really need to. Enthalpy tunes are pretty good from everything I've read about them. I've run a factory FPR on all of my cars at one point and eventually upgraded at a later time. No issues that I can remember.

FMU = Fuel Management Unit. It's a rising rate fuel pressure regualtor. Meaning that for every psi of boost you run it will increase fuel pressure a certain amount of psi, say 6:1.

best route for ka-t on a stock engine would be the turbo of youre choosing and a set of 550's with a z32 maf and the enthalpy rom tune. the stock pressure reg will do just fine. just run a 255 walbro pump and a z32 fuel filter to feed the 550's and theres your fuel mods taken care of. i wouldnt worry about aanything bigger than 550's as youll run out of fuel about when youll run out of bottom end. more has been made on the stock lower deck but more has also been made on 550s but for how long it lasted idk. that setup tho should see you all the way through to 320-330whp no problem.

And WD youre exactly right. In Tims words, "I never change my oil. I add a quart a week, swap the filter every 2000 miles and top off the oil as necessary." His plans are to run it till it turns loose, then forged toys will be on order. Kinda neat to see a 350whp 230,000mi ka go, it makes neat noises lol

Tell him I suggested a electric vacuum pump connected to the valve cover. They are pretty cheap used, any pump from an old GM will work. Just need to have a separator inline. I've heard nothing but great things, especially on old engines. Sometimes the vacuum stops all of the leaks entirely.

if i called and told him that right now he'd say screw it, "it'll go till it blows." im sure its just stem seals and ring wear. 230k on a ka that been boosted for 10k as of now. it might help with the blow by from the ring wear from it wouldnt help the leaking stem seals. honestly i think its funny to ride with tim and watch gt's and gto's only catch his smoke cloud lmao

Thanks guys. I guy i will run stock fpr for know with enthaply tune. Cant wait until next month to pull everything out