I'm looking to get another 240sx and the one I am looking at has 208k on it, what do you guys think? HOw many miles can a KA24e w/stand. Its an 89 w/ sohc ka, the guy selling it is asking for $2000.
One more q, is there a page on what is required to install a KA24de into the 89-90 or can someone tell me what is needed?
how many miles does a KA last?
oh my god! $2000 with over 200k.
well its california so no rust. check the frame for accident damage. ask for maintenance receipts. seems a little high but if its well maintained who knows. just bank on a new engine in the not so distant future. i paid less for a cali car in nj with 143k before the guy smashed it up right in front of me *ugh* it wasnt too bad but i think im a little tramatised.
well its california so no rust. check the frame for accident damage. ask for maintenance receipts. seems a little high but if its well maintained who knows. just bank on a new engine in the not so distant future. i paid less for a cali car in nj with 143k before the guy smashed it up right in front of me *ugh* it wasnt too bad but i think im a little tramatised.
heres some posts ive gathered theres probly more but its a start:
95 DOHC into 90
Mechanically it all bolts up no problems.Here are the main differences:
Mechanical:Power steering - different between SOHC (pass. side) and DOHC (driver side). To swap, you need the DOHC power steering lines, reservoir, and hoses.Intake - different shape, so can't swap thatThrottle cable - SOHC too short to reach DOHC throttle body best to get a DOHC cable.A/C is a different compressor entirely, though in about the same position. To make a DOHC compressor work with a SOHC system, you'll need to have a specialty shop custom fit the DOHC lines to your SOHC system. No, the DOHC lines do not just bolt to the firewall fittings, they are different sizes. Also, SOHC systems used R12 refrigerant, now illegal. You'll need to convert to R134, which means a system flush and new drier.Ignition - I understand the '91-'94(?) sytems use a different coil, but not entirely sure. The '95+ systems don't have an external coil, so not an issue there.
Electrical - SOHC systems and DOHC systems are somewhat different in the wire routing, primarily the power/fuse wiring for the ECU (at least for the '95 vs '90 systems), but also some sensors and inputs for the OBD, tach, speedo. It's not really a big deal if 1) you have the FSM (wiring diagrams) for both the SOHC and donor DOHC systems, and 2) you can read and understand the wiring diagrams. Then its a matter of identifying the differences, and cutting/splicing the DOHC harness to match the SOHC systems. The harness plugs that connect to the engine room and dashboard harnesses are different, so you have to cut to SOHC plugs and splice them into the DOHC harness. Takes a little time and you have to do it right, but like I said, not bad if you have a bit of understanding about how electrical systems work.
Also, you need a DOHC tach as the SOHC tach will not work.
Obviously you also need the DOHC computer.
You may have to change the transmission harness a bit to make it mate up, but that's minor (for the '95, I had to wire in the 2nd O2 sensor and crankshaft position sensor, no big deal).
Wiring:MUST use end of SOHC harness and sauter respective lines to the DOHC wiring harness from the engine to the dash/gauges. Yellow / Red stripe Tachometer signal
Yellow / Green stripe Speedometer signal
Orange Ignition start
Black Ground
Blue / Green stripe AC signal
Blue / Black stripe Water temp signal
I left the gauge cluster cover how to swap a S13 DOHC motor into a SOHC equipped S13, as well as parts necessary.
1. Source parts needed for swap (full parts list is at bottom of post).2. Ensure you have adequate tools, space, equipment, time and money to accomplish this.3. Source a motorset.4. Yoink old motor from chassis. You can unbolt the motor mounts from above or below. Guide the motor out, making sure it doesn't damage anything on it's way out. I'd pull the transmission at the same time as well, in case you're going to be utilizing the same transmission ,so that reinstallation will be much easier.5. Remove A/C lines. You will have to get custom lines made if you want to keep A/C, or make a custom bracket for your SOHC compressor.6. [OPTIONAL] Remove any other engine bay items like AIV, airbox, etc. and prepare engine bay to your liking. (clean, sand, paint, nothing, etc)7. Move SOHC power steering lines over to driver's side & install DOHC power steering reservoir -OR- install S13 DOHC power steering lines.8. Replace SOHC throttle cable with DOHC throttle cable. Two bolts at the firewall behind the accelerator (and remove the accelerator to make life easier.9. Pull SOHC engine harness. You can either cut it at the firewall, leave it intact and pull it thru the firewall (into the engine bay), or whatever is easiest for you. Don't throw it away just yet - you may want extra wiring, or to keep the connectors for future use.10. Install DOHC engine harness. Reverse of above. 11. If you're doing a manual swap, NOW is the time to drill out the place for the clutch master cylinder, install it, and run the hardline down.12. reinstall everything you took out to prep the engine bay, like AIV, airbox, cruise control, etc.13. Prepare your new motor. This means whatever maintenance you'd like to perform on it before it goes in, i.e. water pump, vacuum line replacement, thermostat, reseal oil pan, timing chain job, belts, etc. It's about 11ty billion times easier working on an engine when it's OUTSIDE of a car.14. Slide your slick new DOHC KA into it's new home. Again, watch your clearances. You don't want to damage anything or scratch that fresh new paint, right? Make sure you attach your heater hoses during this step. It'll make life MUCH easier.15. After getting the transmission mount in and bolted down, tighten down the motor mounts. This is important, as your engine can sit ****eyed and still be tightened down at the motor mounts.16. You're getting close! Reinstall your clutch fan (or not if you have electric stuff), and install your radiator and fan shroud. Install your Upper and Lower radiator hoses at this time.17. Start connecting the harness to the motor. Now is the time to do a clean job of installing the wiring.18. Finish installing everything else, like intake piping, sparkplug wires, etc.19. Your engine bay SHOULD be complete. Now it's time to address swap wiring.
Wiring:F'ing SIMPLE.1. Locate the body harness (under dash harness that attached to the ECU) that attached to your old harness. Cut the old connector off (the one that attached to your SOHC harness) and attach your DOHC body harness connector. Just match the colors! There will be some wires left over. These are for the SOHC's diagnostic plug, and are unnecessary. Please note: Your car will NOT be able to hook up to a CONSULT tool. To accomplish this, you must get a body harness with all the correct DOHC wiring. This is why we cut the body harness connector off, and not the engine harness connector.2. I recommend using a soldering iron, shrink tubing and electrical tape as opposed to butt connectors. It makes for a much cleaner job, and a cleaner electrical signal.3. You need to swap out your tach if you want one that works. No wiring is involved, but it must be done. Simply pull your combination meter (gauge cluster) and remove the three screws behind the tach. Lift and separate. Installation is reverse of removal.4. You should also extend the wires that go to the PS line sensor and connect that to your subharness. It's not necessary, but it's a good idea.
Parts needed:S13 DOHC KA (or S14 KA with OBDI lower intake plenum, S13 DOHC distributor and S13 DOHC coil & others)S13 DOHC engine harness & body harness connector.S13 DOHC MAF, intake piping, coil, tachometer, power steering reservoir and hoses (low pressure), throttle cable (and cruise cable if you have it.), engine-side brake booster vacuum hose, engine/transmission subharness (if swapping from automagic).Optional: S13 DOHC power steering high pressure lines
A few sidenotes: S13 AIV system is same/same. Nothing needs changing there. For cruise control, the cable length is dependent on the motor. DOHC cruise control can't use the SOHC cable without a weird custom bracket.
For my swap, I used a '95 KA, adjusted to behave like a '92. I used a '92 exhaust manifold, EGR tube, distributor, lower intake plenum, coil, and vacuum routing. To eliminate the secondary butterfly vacuum line, I pinched it and sealed it. I performed a fully stock swap. No EGR or AIV elimination, no intake or cams or otherwise.
95 DOHC into 90
Mechanically it all bolts up no problems.Here are the main differences:
Mechanical:Power steering - different between SOHC (pass. side) and DOHC (driver side). To swap, you need the DOHC power steering lines, reservoir, and hoses.Intake - different shape, so can't swap thatThrottle cable - SOHC too short to reach DOHC throttle body best to get a DOHC cable.A/C is a different compressor entirely, though in about the same position. To make a DOHC compressor work with a SOHC system, you'll need to have a specialty shop custom fit the DOHC lines to your SOHC system. No, the DOHC lines do not just bolt to the firewall fittings, they are different sizes. Also, SOHC systems used R12 refrigerant, now illegal. You'll need to convert to R134, which means a system flush and new drier.Ignition - I understand the '91-'94(?) sytems use a different coil, but not entirely sure. The '95+ systems don't have an external coil, so not an issue there.
Electrical - SOHC systems and DOHC systems are somewhat different in the wire routing, primarily the power/fuse wiring for the ECU (at least for the '95 vs '90 systems), but also some sensors and inputs for the OBD, tach, speedo. It's not really a big deal if 1) you have the FSM (wiring diagrams) for both the SOHC and donor DOHC systems, and 2) you can read and understand the wiring diagrams. Then its a matter of identifying the differences, and cutting/splicing the DOHC harness to match the SOHC systems. The harness plugs that connect to the engine room and dashboard harnesses are different, so you have to cut to SOHC plugs and splice them into the DOHC harness. Takes a little time and you have to do it right, but like I said, not bad if you have a bit of understanding about how electrical systems work.
Also, you need a DOHC tach as the SOHC tach will not work.
Obviously you also need the DOHC computer.
You may have to change the transmission harness a bit to make it mate up, but that's minor (for the '95, I had to wire in the 2nd O2 sensor and crankshaft position sensor, no big deal).
Wiring:MUST use end of SOHC harness and sauter respective lines to the DOHC wiring harness from the engine to the dash/gauges. Yellow / Red stripe Tachometer signal
Yellow / Green stripe Speedometer signal
Orange Ignition start
Black Ground
Blue / Green stripe AC signal
Blue / Black stripe Water temp signal
I left the gauge cluster cover how to swap a S13 DOHC motor into a SOHC equipped S13, as well as parts necessary.
1. Source parts needed for swap (full parts list is at bottom of post).2. Ensure you have adequate tools, space, equipment, time and money to accomplish this.3. Source a motorset.4. Yoink old motor from chassis. You can unbolt the motor mounts from above or below. Guide the motor out, making sure it doesn't damage anything on it's way out. I'd pull the transmission at the same time as well, in case you're going to be utilizing the same transmission ,so that reinstallation will be much easier.5. Remove A/C lines. You will have to get custom lines made if you want to keep A/C, or make a custom bracket for your SOHC compressor.6. [OPTIONAL] Remove any other engine bay items like AIV, airbox, etc. and prepare engine bay to your liking. (clean, sand, paint, nothing, etc)7. Move SOHC power steering lines over to driver's side & install DOHC power steering reservoir -OR- install S13 DOHC power steering lines.8. Replace SOHC throttle cable with DOHC throttle cable. Two bolts at the firewall behind the accelerator (and remove the accelerator to make life easier.9. Pull SOHC engine harness. You can either cut it at the firewall, leave it intact and pull it thru the firewall (into the engine bay), or whatever is easiest for you. Don't throw it away just yet - you may want extra wiring, or to keep the connectors for future use.10. Install DOHC engine harness. Reverse of above. 11. If you're doing a manual swap, NOW is the time to drill out the place for the clutch master cylinder, install it, and run the hardline down.12. reinstall everything you took out to prep the engine bay, like AIV, airbox, cruise control, etc.13. Prepare your new motor. This means whatever maintenance you'd like to perform on it before it goes in, i.e. water pump, vacuum line replacement, thermostat, reseal oil pan, timing chain job, belts, etc. It's about 11ty billion times easier working on an engine when it's OUTSIDE of a car.14. Slide your slick new DOHC KA into it's new home. Again, watch your clearances. You don't want to damage anything or scratch that fresh new paint, right? Make sure you attach your heater hoses during this step. It'll make life MUCH easier.15. After getting the transmission mount in and bolted down, tighten down the motor mounts. This is important, as your engine can sit ****eyed and still be tightened down at the motor mounts.16. You're getting close! Reinstall your clutch fan (or not if you have electric stuff), and install your radiator and fan shroud. Install your Upper and Lower radiator hoses at this time.17. Start connecting the harness to the motor. Now is the time to do a clean job of installing the wiring.18. Finish installing everything else, like intake piping, sparkplug wires, etc.19. Your engine bay SHOULD be complete. Now it's time to address swap wiring.
Wiring:F'ing SIMPLE.1. Locate the body harness (under dash harness that attached to the ECU) that attached to your old harness. Cut the old connector off (the one that attached to your SOHC harness) and attach your DOHC body harness connector. Just match the colors! There will be some wires left over. These are for the SOHC's diagnostic plug, and are unnecessary. Please note: Your car will NOT be able to hook up to a CONSULT tool. To accomplish this, you must get a body harness with all the correct DOHC wiring. This is why we cut the body harness connector off, and not the engine harness connector.2. I recommend using a soldering iron, shrink tubing and electrical tape as opposed to butt connectors. It makes for a much cleaner job, and a cleaner electrical signal.3. You need to swap out your tach if you want one that works. No wiring is involved, but it must be done. Simply pull your combination meter (gauge cluster) and remove the three screws behind the tach. Lift and separate. Installation is reverse of removal.4. You should also extend the wires that go to the PS line sensor and connect that to your subharness. It's not necessary, but it's a good idea.
Parts needed:S13 DOHC KA (or S14 KA with OBDI lower intake plenum, S13 DOHC distributor and S13 DOHC coil & others)S13 DOHC engine harness & body harness connector.S13 DOHC MAF, intake piping, coil, tachometer, power steering reservoir and hoses (low pressure), throttle cable (and cruise cable if you have it.), engine-side brake booster vacuum hose, engine/transmission subharness (if swapping from automagic).Optional: S13 DOHC power steering high pressure lines
A few sidenotes: S13 AIV system is same/same. Nothing needs changing there. For cruise control, the cable length is dependent on the motor. DOHC cruise control can't use the SOHC cable without a weird custom bracket.
For my swap, I used a '95 KA, adjusted to behave like a '92. I used a '92 exhaust manifold, EGR tube, distributor, lower intake plenum, coil, and vacuum routing. To eliminate the secondary butterfly vacuum line, I pinched it and sealed it. I performed a fully stock swap. No EGR or AIV elimination, no intake or cams or otherwise.
great info bro!
Yea I plan on checking for frame damage and maintenance questions, but havent gotten a chance to see the guy in person to pop the hood and take it for a ride
If I get this car it will be a commuter for school, so I'm just hoping that its in good condition so i dont have to do a kade swap
Yea I plan on checking for frame damage and maintenance questions, but havent gotten a chance to see the guy in person to pop the hood and take it for a ride
If I get this car it will be a commuter for school, so I'm just hoping that its in good condition so i dont have to do a kade swap
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stash420sx
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:05 pm
I have a 92 with 212k on it....... it took a turn for the worse about a week ago.... Ka's have a problem with heat with that many miles on so be very careful on what you buy. There is no way to tell visually if it has a heat problem. You won't find that out untill you drive it. I have owned 6 240's drive a 92 now turning my 89" 240 into a drag car. Plan on doing the SR20 swap when the funds allow. I paid 1200 for my 92" couln't be happier. It had 172k on it when i bought it ran the crap out of it took it to the strip. Ran a 10.67 on the 8th with a stock engine. the are great cars but with the 240's it is real easy to get ahold of a money pit. good luck!
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twofourzeroSX
- Posts: 773
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 8:38 am
- Car: 91 sileighty
- Contact:
i have 212k on my 93 KA24DE. no problems yet. it leaks alittle oil and has some timing chain noise. i dont really drive it because i dont have it registered but my neighbor owned it and went 100 miles a day atleast. she never beat on it and took great care to the internals with all the mechanic check ups and changes posible. ill see how mine turns out but just so you know-i paid 1000 for mine and it had slight rust around the sunroof. 2 grand in calli doesnt sound too crazy
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Nameless EJ6
- Posts: 1228
- Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 9:24 pm
- Car: What the **** do you think.