How many have replaced the MAF because you removed those 4 little screws?

[Q-less]

I thought I would check the MAF sensor and I removed the white clip, saw no corrosion. I figured I would remove the male black connector that sticks out of the MAF, BIG MISTAKE, I didn't know it shouldn't have come off...Doh!! So, I go to the neighbors to borrow a soldering iron and before I leave he has an idea to solder three lead wires to both ends and then stuff it back together. I saw no way of soldering it like it was so I thought I would save myself some time and do what he recommended. It worked, took about 30 minutes of detailed soldering, but it worked. I had to bend the leads, ever so carefully, to a straight position.

So, why the 4 little screws if you shouldn't take it off.

I took the car out for drive and no stalling and the temp gauge went to normal again, but it seems to decrease whenever I really stomp on the gas. But still no stalling. I guess the intermittent stalling is the alternator failing, hence the 'low charge warning.' I've had alternators act funny like that in the past. Can you do the old alternator test on the Q, remove the battery cables and if the car dies, your alternator is bad? Anyhow, I've got an alternator coming and will have it in case the intermittent becomes terminal.

Modified by CherryPoppinQ45 at 6:49 PM 8/21/2005
Modified by CherryPoppinQ45 at 10:01 AM 8/22/2005

[Jesda]

Even a bad MAF that causes stalling will bring up a low charge or transmission failure warning.

I made the same error with my MAF connector. I saw the four screws, removed them, yanked it off... *crack* I bent the pins so they'd touch and put it back on.

[DAEDALUS]

Can you do the old alternator test on the Q, remove the battery cables and if the car dies, your alternator is bad? Anyhow, I've got an alternator coming and will have it in case the intermittent becomes terminal.

That's really not recommended for any modern computer-controlled car. You can probably do it and get away with it, but votage spikes aren't good for integrated circuits. The battery is like a voltage damper and will smooth out the voltage.The battery has a nominal voltage on its own. If the voltage is higher while the car's running, then the alt is putting out more power than the car is using. If the voltage is lower, the alt is putting out insufficient power. You don't have to risk damage to your ECU for this one.

[Q-less]

I used the multi-meter and tested the voltage at running and revved the engine manually and the Voltage stayed steady at 14 volts.

[Q-less]

I yanked it off too and bashfully stuck it back in and tried starting the car, no luck they wouldn't make a good connection. It is impossible to solder it unless you are fast enough to solder three pins and stick it real fast. I bet the original solder fails and that causes the poor connection, I dunno. I wish I took pics of what I did so others could see it and do the same. So, now I can remove those 4 screws anytime I want to and have about an inch of slack with my newly soldered wires.

[Q-less]

I can't find Tangalora's piece about re-wiring the FPCU. I have searched for over an hour now. Can someone post a link to the thread.

[Jesda]

http://nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=73822

[Q-less]

Thanks Jesda, wwhile searching it looks as though you have had your share of the same symptoms.

[Trung1130]

I did the same thing with the MAF and four little screws when ihad the stalling problem, but since I took out the four little screws I havent had a problem with stalling.

[QE86]

Well I guess that's the reason why my last MAF fails, I will try to play around with it when I have time so I can have a back up MAF

[atlanta_shooter]

CP....I gotta hand it to you...you have big nads admitting this. I feel like a new AA member finally standing up to say, "I am an alcoholic"...yes I stupidly did the same thing just a few days ago!!!! Thanks for your post, cause I was just getting ready to try and find a "used" MAF. My thought process was the same as yours...o.k. here are 4 little screws...I will remove this and see if there are any contacts inside to clean. You would think those 3 soldered connections would put up a little more fight...but noooooo, mine just popped right off! Makes me wonder if the connnections were bad anyway? My ck eng light was on giving MAF code...well I guess I'm off to buy a soldering iron. Thanks so much for helping me to admit my stupidity!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[3rd Q]

Cleaning the MAF with brake cleaner as mentioned in numerous posts works wonders, too. Doesn't do any good if the connection is bad though .

BTW - I have an extra MAF if anyone is interested. Email me.

Paul

[Q-less]

After resoldering mine, I have had no stalling issues and believe it cured a lot. For it to pop off so easily tells me it had a loose connection and the resoldering was a perfect remedy. I can't think of anything else on the Q that has screws and shouldn't come off.