how low is too low?

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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MasterMan
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alright i did a seach.. didnt really come up with what i wanted.. so anyways here it goes.. im going to be lowering my S13 in the next month.. everything is stock (suspensin wise (sp?) ) i have stock alloys also.. so what i wanna know is how low should i lower it? im going to be doing autox.. and all that wheel gap is ugly.. so 1.5 or 2 inches? i dont wanna be draging over ever lil bump.. and i dont want it to look like a fuggin low-rider. so what do u all think would be good? and also what brand of lowering springs should i go with? (i have like 200$ to spend) also here are pics of my car http://www.noand.com/~masterman

thanks for the help :)


Nismo_Freak
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Get some Eibach Sportlines... stock struts will go fast if you lower the car and go auto-x-ing alot. There is no lowest setting as long as your spring rates, dampening, alignment, sways, bumpsteer, and chassis can hold it. However going lower than say 3" just makes the car skid instead of turning. The lower the car is the more stabile it is in a skid however the more likely it is to enter one with the shorter suspension stroke. If you want a 3" drop I suggest a good set of coilovers... I'd get the HAs w/ 8 kgf front and 6 kgf rear spring rates. Set the dampening to 6 in the front and about 10 in the rear. That will give you a mild understeer at the limit and a rear end that wont walk out on you unless you want it to.

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MasterMan
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cool thanks for the info man :)

Nismo_Freak
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No Problem...

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Lepchitz1
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dont go below the fender wells

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APEXi240
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When your tires rub the wheels wells....then its too low.

blue
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The following link has a lot of info on the suspension for 240SX/S14, S15 etc. http://www.whiteline.com.au/do...5.PDF

93low240sx
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I just lowered my 93 240sx se with arospeed coilovers and i went 2.5 inches front and back and it looks perfect, doesnt rub and it handles really awesome! just make sure if you buy them- the springs for the back need a little piece, like a small metal plate bigger than your spring, b/c i had the problem of the little rubber piece that goes on top went into my spring. so we had to take it all apart again! but otherwise it lowered it perfect!!!!

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float_6969
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I've got a set of Eibacs with KYB AGX struts already installed for sale for $500.00. Check out my post in the general chat forum.

91nis240
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hey 93low240sx, ive got the same coil overs as you and in the rear, even w/ the tokico struts they bottom out alot when i hit a bump pretty good, and i was lookin through my rim and the rears spring has like one inch of play, i dunno maybe htey just arnt stiff enough do you have this problem??

93low240sx
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yea i have the same problem they bottom out alot, i have to watch where i drive alot, but otherwise it looks good.

93low240sx
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yea i have the stock shocks in my car, looking to get new ones; what does anyone prefer?

R240NA
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93low240sx wrote:I just lowered my 93 240sx se with arospeed coilovers and i went 2.5 inches front and back and it looks perfect, doesnt rub and it handles really awesome! just make sure if you buy them- the springs for the back need a little piece, like a small metal plate bigger than your spring, b/c i had the problem of the little rubber piece that goes on top went into my spring. so we had to take it all apart again! but otherwise it lowered it perfect!!!!


I'm willing to bet your car doesn't handle as 'awesome' as you say it does. There is no way a set of cheapass add-on sleeve coilovers, combined with OE worn out struts/shocks can handle in any way better than a car with a good set of springs and properly matched struts/shocks, and 2.5 inches is way too low for any kind of spirited driving with what you have. I'm not doubting your opinion, but drive a car with the right parts on it and you'll see. Your alignment is probably completely trashed too and your're wearing out tires, bushings, and ball joints like you would a $2 whore. Sleeve type coilovers are made SPECIFICALLY for a car that wants to have a low look, nothing else. Look at the honda market, there's dozens of these things, and how many of the riced-out hondas do you see actually racing, autocrossing, or driving hard. NONE. You might as well take your struts/shocks out and just put a 2x4 in there, cut to the right length. There's more than likely a disclaimer somewhere in small print on the instructions warning of adverse handling when lowered too much, if there isn't they need to be closed down for selling that junk. If you're still not convinced, take a good psyhics class.

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Exar-Kun
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TO 93low240:Number A. raise your damn car back up. unless you just really like the "low look" your not really helpim much past a 1.75" drop, esspecially without coilovers, TRUE coilovers, not sleeve bull**** coilovers.Number B. you need to replace shocks and struts before springs, and you did this in reverse order. you get one ***** slap for this. now, go get some KYB AGX shocks, so you can at LEAST tighten up your freaking springs. you do realise what controlls the car is the shocks, NOT the springs, springs simply set ride height, they have a minimal ammount to do with anything else. obviously all you care about is "looking fast".

I dont see you taking those things out of your car, so Im not going into why you wasted your money, that should be obvious by my posts above. seriously, get a set of AGX shocks, or koni yellows, but be aware that with your huge drop for "handling" you might very well blow shocks left and right because of the shortened spring travell.

Master:"know is how low should i lower it? im going to be doing autox.. and all that wheel gap is ugly.. so 1.5 or 2 inches? i dont wanna be draging over ever lil bump.. and i dont want it to look like a fuggin low-rider. so what do u all think would be good? and also what brand of lowering springs should i go with"

-a good set of eibach or any linear rate spring(not progressive for autocross purposes. those are evil.) like tein would be a good choice, and like I said lowering over 1.75" or so without a full coilover and allignment tech/adjustable suspension peices to help line everything up properly, your not doing much good.Replace the socks too, for autocrossing, I;'d recoment AGX's for their adjustability, or KONI yellow if you dont wanna mess with adjusting things. you could also look into bilstein HD shocks, but those tend to be pricey(but very nice)

-chet

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C-Kwik
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Who says sleeves are bad? I won't comment on specific brands, but there is nothing wrong with sleeve type adjustable coilovers in that of themselves. As long as they sit on the shock/strut securely and allow the spring and shock to work correctly, you should see no problems with them. I would agree that shock will probably end up being a priority, especially since to get that low of a ride, you will need to use very stiff springs to keep the shocks from bottoming out internally. As such, stiff valving will be needed.

And springs have a LOT to do with the suspension. Yes, they in part determine ride-height, but also how much they move for a given weight load. Shocks control the speed in which the springs travel. Springs provide a resistance to weight. Shocks provide a resistance to movement. They do two different things but work together for a specific purpose. And one can not work effectively without the other.

And just so you guys know, Ground Control (A company many race teams go to for their suspension parts) sells a sleeve kit for the 240sx. It's actually made for race-use only.

Not that I don't think there are some less than quality sleeve kits out there, but to blatantly say that they all suck is pure ignorance.

91nis240
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amen C-Kwik, and yes to who ever said that "the spring only purpose is ride height" come on man!

Tai Mai Shu
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I have the kyb agx'S with the Tein H springs, I havent installed it yet, ebcause im still waiting for my engine!!!Stupid Customs....But once I get it in, I will tell you all how they are.

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Exar-Kun
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91nis240: they are for ride hieght, a shock alone will compress under the weight of the car, but the springs are used to hold X ammount of weight at a certain height, and compress if more weight is loaded on them, at a preset ammount of compression(how the springs are wound) without a shock, thecompression and rebound of the spring are uncontrolled, thus rendering the spring nearly useless.

seriously, the major job of a spring is ride height and weight to copression loading, but even that is modified by the shock, a stiff shock stops the spring from both compressing and rebounding.

also, I suggest if you dont know anything about the subject to avoid telling me to "come on man".

otherwise K-car might light you up.

sleeves are never as good as a true, made-for-purpose coilover unit. to me, sleeves serve no other purpose than to artifically compress a spring by using a threaded mounting system. I would think its much better to get a spring that will give you the ride height and tension(rate of compression under loads, rated on the springs of any good mfr.) you wnat/need than compressing a spring atificcaly thusly modifying its characteristics, allong with the shock(reducing or lengthening its stroke)some sleeve, such as ground controll can be used for street/show purposes fine, but like I said, I';d rather get a nice adjustable shock and some good springs, and not waste my money, for the above reasons.

all in all, Im getting a set of Apex-I n-1 coil overs, possible GP motorsports or TEIN, havent decided...ZEAL makes a nice setup, too.

-chet

wanabe240esx
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any one ever use JIC's supsension stuff, i know they're not real popular but they're out there, and if you look at all their suspension peices for the S13 and S14, you might think they know what they're talking about

http://www.jic-magic.comcheck it out

91nis240
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dont even buddy, tell me not to comment b/c im not educated enough on the subject. And maybe i would of never told you "come on man" if you'd a explained a springs purpose as you did in your most recent post insted of the way you did in your one prior post.

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C-Kwik
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Exar-Kun wrote:91nis240: they are for ride hieght, a shock alone will compress under the weight of the car, but the springs are used to hold X ammount of weight at a certain height, and compress if more weight is loaded on them, at a preset ammount of compression(how the springs are wound) without a shock, thecompression and rebound of the spring are uncontrolled, thus rendering the spring nearly useless.

seriously, the major job of a spring is ride height and weight to copression loading, but even that is modified by the shock, a stiff shock stops the spring from both compressing and rebounding.

sleeves are never as good as a true, made-for-purpose coilover unit. to me, sleeves serve no other purpose than to artifically compress a spring by using a threaded mounting system. I would think its much better to get a spring that will give you the ride height and tension(rate of compression under loads, rated on the springs of any good mfr.) you wnat/need than compressing a spring atificcaly thusly modifying its characteristics, allong with the shock(reducing or lengthening its stroke)some sleeve, such as ground controll can be used for street/show purposes fine, but like I said, I';d rather get a nice adjustable shock and some good springs, and not waste my money, for the above reasons.

all in all, Im getting a set of Apex-I n-1 coil overs, possible GP motorsports or TEIN, havent decided...ZEAL makes a nice setup, too.

-chet


Shocks slow down rebound and compression. It does not stop it. As far as rendering a spring useless, it does not, but does create a very dangerous oscillation (bouncing) when driving and affects all dynamics of a car. I've driven cars with shocks blown so bad that the shaft had no resistance at all. Bouncing is not fun when trying to drive fast.

A complete adjustable rideheight coilover system looks better, but does not mean it performs better. Most out there are very good and look a lot better then any sleeve system. That's not to say Sleeve systems are great either. It depends on how well it's put together. Most poorly put together sleeve systems decrease the amount of suspension travel. This is bad. Particularly in the front suspension of the 240sx. It has little travel to begin with and very little room above the lower spring perch. Removing the existing perch would help, but probably a lot more trouble than it's worth when there are systems available. But honestly, you don't need that much adjustment anyways. You can adjust rideheight by choosing a spring properly. I would limit theuse of the adjustable perches for cornerweighting if I used a sleeve system.

A coilover system does not artificially compress a spring. All you do is change the location of the bottom of the spring, thus changing how high the car sits. The spring itself still compresses to the the same height under the weight of the car.

Uhh? As I said, the Ground Control sleeves are actually built for racing. Not just a street/show set-up. It's actually probably made to sit on top of the spring perch and you probably do need a stiff spring to avoid bottoming out, so that's probably why it is marked for race-only. That's just my speculation though. And for show, I'd imagine you'ld want something that looks a lot cleaner than a sleeve system.

Lastly, 91nis240, As far as your rear set-up, if there is only one inch of compression left, the kit you used is probably not very good. I'm speculating that the sleeve itself is rather long and the spring is relatively short. The 240sx Rear spring/shock assembly is quite long. Just took a quick look at mine and there is enough space between the coils so that if I put enough weight on the back, the wheels would bottom out inside the wheelwell before the spring ever did. I would stay away from just a stiffer spring to solve your problem. It can affect your handling adversely. I've never heard of Arospeed doing any actual race testing on their parts, so it's probably more of a cosmetic kit. If the situation on your car is as I describe it, the proper fix would be to cut down the sleeve and use a longer spring. If it uses a standard size, you can probably find a replacement spring through Eibach. But if you don't know what you are doing with spring rates and such, I recommend buying a prefabbed kit. A lot of complete systems are not too pricey, considering what it costs for new shocks, springs, pillowball mount/camber plates (if desired), etc.

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Exar-Kun
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C-Kwik wrote:Shocks slow down rebound and compression. It does not stop it. As far as rendering a spring useless, it does not, but does create a very dangerous oscillation (bouncing) when driving and affects all dynamics of a car. I've driven cars with shocks blown so bad that the shaft had no resistance at all. Bouncing is not fun when trying to drive fast.exactly.... making it, in my opinion useless except for ride height controll. my point exactly. ignoring the enrgy transfer to the chassis and eventual stopping of the rebound, mind you.

A complete adjustable rideheight coilover system looks better, but does not mean it performs better. Most out there are very good and look a lot better then any sleeve system. That's not to say Sleeve systems are great either. It depends on how well it's put together. Most poorly put together sleeve systems decrease the amount of suspension travel. thats what I was refering to earlier., where you top mount and bottom must be used to compress the spring artificially, etc.

This is bad. Particularly in the front suspension of the 240sx. It has little travel to begin with and very little room above the lower spring perch. Removing the existing perch would help, but probably a lot more trouble than it's worth when there are systems available. But honestly, you don't need that much adjustment anyways. You can adjust rideheight by choosing a spring properly. I would limit theuse of the adjustable perches for cornerweighting if I used a sleeve system. Also what I said :) good to know we think allong similar lines.

A coilover system does not artificially compress a spring. All you do is change the location of the bottom of the spring, thus changing how high the car sits. The spring itself still compresses to the the same height under the weight of the car.yes, but the cheap ones do, see above. I was not refering to real coil-overs, or good sleeve systems.

Uhh? As I said, the Ground Control sleeves are actually built for racing. Not just a street/show set-up. It's actually probably made to sit on top of the spring perch and you probably do need a stiff spring to avoid bottoming out, so that's probably why it is marked for race-only. That's just my speculation though. And for show, I'd imagine you'ld want something that looks a lot cleaner than a sleeve system.Yes, ground controll uses very hard/high tension springs. also, it requires some cutting to make work correctly for the upper pillow ball mounts. I was reffering to "show" as the people who like to slam their cars more than any spring kit will, IE 3" or more like someone did....*sigh*

Lastly, 91nis240, As far as your rear set-up, if there is only one inch of compression left, the kit you used is probably not very good. I'm speculating that the sleeve itself is rather long and the spring is relatively short. The 240sx Rear spring/shock assembly is quite long. Just took a quick look at mine and there is enough space between the coils so that if I put enough weight on the back, the wheels would bottom out inside the wheelwell before the spring ever did. I would stay away from just a stiffer spring to solve your problem. It can affect your handling adversely. I've never heard of Arospeed doing any actual race testing on their parts, so it's probably more of a cosmetic kit. If the situation on your car is as I describe it, the proper fix would be to cut down the sleeve and use a longer spring. If it uses a standard size, you can probably find a replacement spring through Eibach. But if you don't know what you are doing with spring rates and such, I recommend buying a prefabbed kit. A lot of complete systems are not too pricey, considering what it costs for new shocks, springs, pillowball mount/camber plates (if desired), etc.
:withstup

also, a good coilover (true coilover, ala TEIN, JIC, ZEAL< etc) system will work better than a sleeve system, for these reasons:1. more adjustability, without compression of the spring, allong with 12+ ways of adjustment of dampening force to regulate the springs, and most come with adjustble camber, and pillow ball mounts. this allows folr better adjustability to your driving/track conditions/etc.2. better materials. usually, the materials used to make the systems like those above are usually of a higher grade(IE the springs are form alluminum alloys for lighteness and strength.)3. usually engineered better. most kits from Cusco, etc are made from Gt300 races and things, thusly may be better engineered than a "universal" sleeve kit for a car, designed for both slammers and sports handling enthusiests(sp?)

I would rather get a good set of springs and adjustable shocks(IE TEIN srpings/NISMO springs and a set of AGX shocks) than a sleeve system, but thats my opinion.

91nis240: my appologies, but seriously, lay off the criticism, I was short with you, I appologise, now hopefully I can teach you something, as well as C-kwik. :)

-chet

R240NA
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91nis240 wrote:dont even buddy, tell me not to comment b/c im not educated enough on the subject. And maybe i would of never told you "come on man" if you'd a explained a springs purpose as you did in your most recent post insted of the way you did in your one prior post.


Chet's comments were dead on. You ARE uneducated, you've proved that by dropping your car 2.5-3 inches on OE struts/shocks, and then by posting at least twice questions as to why you're blowing them out left and right. Your education is severely lacking in that respect, but then again you are only 18 and have virtually no experience in anything automotive, so I'll take that into consideration and not assume you're a complete tool. Your solution is like posted earlier, to raise the car and buy something decent to put under it. Knowing how the parts work is good, but if you simply choose not to listen to advice then what difference does it make?

91nis240
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ok and you too! first off i did not drop my car 2 & 1/2in on OEM struts, i bought kyb gr2 struts(which blew) , i then bought tokico struts for the rear annd they work fine and im currently in the process of buying new front struts, so uneducated my ***! Now make sure to know what your talkin about first, before you comment on my current and previous actions buddy!

perpetual gyro
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KS_Honda_Killer wrote:I've got a set of Eibacs with KYB AGX struts already installed for sale for $500.00. Check out my post in the general chat forum.


I was going to recommend this combo.

IMO, anything more than 1.5" is just ridiculous for daily driving...and even then. I had progresive springs on my old eclipse (lowered 1.6") and AGX adjustable shocks and the damn thing would still bottom out on bumps in the road, almost daily (i live in Atlanta, go figure). I'm happy with the stock suspension on my s14. If you ask me, it handles great...much much better than my Ecplise did.

blue
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An explanation as to the purpose and function of springs and shocks and coil overs, can be found at the FAQ link below:http://www.whiteline.com.au/faqintro.htm

perpetual gyro
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also one more thing, if you go any lower than 1.5", most shocks won't be able to handle it. The piston will hit the top of the shock almost every time and it will wear the shocks out in a matter of months. My old DSM was lowered 1.6" and the shocks still bottomed out. Slamming your car is just for show. If you never drove a lowered car, you're not missing much. You can't go anywhere that has large speed bumps, and you have to carefully manuever around every little crack and rivett in the road. I raced a slammed prelude turbo the other day in atlanta, and he couldn't even finish to the end of the road because he had to slow down to a crawl to avoid some cracks in the road. My 240 in my stock suspension glided over the cracks with ease.

If you plan to lower your car, make sure you know everything about how a suspension works. If you get the AGX shocks and you don't know how to properly set them, then you've basically blown your money. You need to take into account many factors for setting your shocks. On my old eclipse, the weight ratio was 60-40, front to rear respectively. So I set the shocks in the front tighter, and set the shocks in the back a little looser. This made that car handle MUCH better around hard cornering and eliminated the jittering i used to get. Anyway, goodluck with every bro.

It's also good to note that in most cases, the shock is the most important part of a suspension. The spring just holds the car up at a specific ride height, as exar noted.

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C-Kwik
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Exar-Kun wrote::withstup

also, a good coilover (true coilover, ala TEIN, JIC, ZEAL< etc) system will work better than a sleeve system, for these reasons:1. more adjustability, without compression of the spring, allong with 12+ ways of adjustment of dampening force to regulate the springs, and most come with adjustble camber, and pillow ball mounts. this allows folr better adjustability to your driving/track conditions/etc.2. better materials. usually, the materials used to make the systems like those above are usually of a higher grade(IE the springs are form alluminum alloys for lighteness and strength.)3. usually engineered better. most kits from Cusco, etc are made from Gt300 races and things, thusly may be better engineered than a "universal" sleeve kit for a car, designed for both slammers and sports handling enthusiests(sp?)

I would rather get a good set of springs and adjustable shocks(IE TEIN srpings/NISMO springs and a set of AGX shocks) than a sleeve system, but thats my opinion.

91nis240: my appologies, but seriously, lay off the criticism, I was short with you, I appologise, now hopefully I can teach you something, as well as C-kwik. :)

-chet


1. As I've said before, you are not artificially compressing the springs. While it is possible to do this if you preload the spring, but a fully extended shock would have way too much travel for it to have any effect. If someone were to do this though, the shock/spring would not compress when you lower the car onto the ground. But that's referring to a preload that is greater than the weight that will be placed on that spring. But going back within reason, preloading a spring will not have an effect on how high the car sits. Given a certain amount of weight, a spring will compress a certain distance. Adjustable perches only place the spring at a different height. You raise the perch by x inches, the car will be raised at that corner by x inches. Lower it by x inches and you will lower that corner by x inches. Frankly, if you are lowering the car using adjustable perches you are actually lowering the preload on the spring. Also, adjustable shocks, pillowball mounts, and camber plates can all be used with sleeves. I run camber plates on my T-Max shocks. I could add a sleeve to mine and have as much functionality as most any other fully adjustable coilover system.

2. You can use the same materials with a sleeve system as well.

3. It doesn't matter how much engineering went into a system. If you are building a race car, you may need to reengineer it anyways to suit your car and driver and track(typically shock valving and spring rates). The Manufacturer's of these parts can not build a suspension component that will suit every condition. Many race teams will choose parts not only on quality, but also on flexibility and ease of "reengineering". The systems on the market typically still have some compromises from a full race system.

Using a spring/strut combo is fine. But get into some serious competition where others use some type of adjustable coilover system and you don't and you will immediately find yourself behind everyone else. Suspension tuning can not be stressed enough in racing. Corner weight adjustment is the most important reason to run an adjustable spring perch. Ride height can easily be changed using other methods.

Consider this....what exactly is a fully adjustable coilover system? It's a shock/strut, with threads around the shock body with an adjustable perch. Take a shock or strut with a fixed perch, cut off the perch, attach a sleeve in it's place and viola, you have the same funtionality as an adjustable system you just bought.

I think you are missing my original point entirely. I'm saying, all else being equal, an adjustable perch from a complete system is no different than if you added it on. The key would be that it has to be put together correctly. Your original statement just discounted sleeves entirely. Like anything, there is a right way to use it and a wrong way to use it. But to completely write it off as bad is an ignorant statement. Sleeves have been used for years. Only now, there are a lot more complete coilover kits on the market, so the easier option would be to use one, considering you don't have to modify the shock body, and the cost difference is negligible. And now, there are some better ones that even have adjustable shock bodies. But then again, who says you can not build that either. All else being equal, there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a sleeve, provided the parts are chosen well to match the application, and it is put together well.

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Exar-Kun
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"Also, adjustable shocks, pillowball mounts, and camber plates can all be used with sleeves. I run camber plates on my T-Max shocks. I could add a sleeve to mine and have as much functionality as most any other fully adjustable coilover system."

yes. but I havent seen a 16-way adjustable shock yet. maybe I ahvent been looking. my gripes are not with qulity sleeve and shock systems, they are with poorly engineered and constructed system, I did say that before. At the begninning I said all sleeves, but I corrected that, I needed to make the exception for good systems.

also, you could add that stuff, sure, but you'd end up with, in my opinion, is a 'tape-and-chewing-gum' solution to a problem of adjustbility. I still think a prefab coilover with all of that built in would be a better choice.

as far as engineering goes, most sleeve manufactureres dont put much reasearch into suspension dynamics(again, G.C. does, and makes good systems), much less spring rate-tuning. but moving on..."Consider this....what exactly is a fully adjustable coilover system? It's a shock/strut, with threads around the shock body with an adjustable perch. Take a shock or strut with a fixed perch, cut off the perch, attach a sleeve in it's place and viola, you have the same funtionality as an adjustable system you just bought. "

I dont think this is entirely true. a good fully adjustable system lets you adjust bound, rebound, and even spring tension by use of a secondary spring. true, you can get a good shock revalved, but chaning that on the fly would be hard to find without a prefab system, or access to a lot of tools.

"I'm saying, all else being equal, an adjustable perch from a complete system is no different than if you added it on. The key would be that it has to be put together correctly. Your original statement just discounted sleeves entirely. Like anything, there is a right way to use it and a wrong way to use it. But to completely write it off as bad is an ignorant statement." Yes, and I corrected myself. like you siad, it had to be put together correctly, and thats something I dont see much of, unfortunately.

whew. hopefully that will clear it up. :)I learned some things, I can say that....thanks C-kwik.(sorry about any spelling errors.)

wanabe240esx
Posts: 114
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2002 11:23 am

Post

gotta love internet ***** fights, but seriously are JIC's basic coilovers comparable to say HA's, or apexi WS's?

hey r240na, im 19 and damm proud of it, i jsut dont slam my car to the ground and ***** and moan when it bounces too much :)


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