how low is to low??

[DrifterBoy240]

okay before i get chewed out and i know this has been brought up a couple of times and i really did search maybe i just didnt search the right words but ohh well.

so i had gotten megan track series coilovers and i have been messing around with camber, toe on teh front and rear, but i still get my car sideways around turns when i really get on it and push it hard and i only have a slightly moded KA n/a and my shocks are set a little on the softer side. and i adjusted my toe and camber at a friends shop and i forgot what i had them set at, and i really cant go back to his shop cause i just moved.

but the only thing i can think of is if i am to low or not low enough.

i had just moved around th memphis area so if anyone can give me a shop where i can go to or something or if anyone wouldn't mind meeting up and giving me some tips

[AmoebAssassin]

Increase your rear ride height slightly, and increase your damping at all four corners.

On an S-chassis car, the lowest you should go if you still want to be fast is whatever the ride height is when your front lower control arms are parallel with the ground. This is the ABSOLUTE limit of lowness for performance, and you will need a LOT of static camber in the front if you're running with the FLCAs parallel to the ground. I'd reccommend setting your ride height up so that your FLCAs are inclined towards the vehicle centerline, i.e. the FLCAs tilt down towards the wheel.

Once you've set the front ride height as described above, either set the rear ride height so that the car is level in the profile view (from the side), or give the car a couple degrees of rake (rear slightly higher than the front). The more rake you have, the more rear traction you will have.

Once you've set your ride height, get the car re-aligned. If you're running with the FLCAs parallel to the ground, or close to parallel with the ground, you will need at least 3* of camber. Zero your toe at all corners, or go slightly toed in at the rear, and adjust front toe out until you're comfortable with the car's turn-in. Run 2* of rear camber, or within .5 degrees of this.

Once your car is aligned, set your damping up so that when you hit a bump, the car settles immediately and doesn't bounce. Don't confuse bouncing for harsh ride. Bounce is when the car hits a bump, and then continues to vibrate up and down afterwards. When you're at the proper damping, you'll know because the car will hit a bump, jounce once, and then settle. Do not go stiffer than this point, because then your suspension becomes overdamped and your wheel will tend to skip over road imperfections.

That should yield a fast and predictable street setup. If you have anymore questions, please ask.

[DrifterBoy240]

thanks man i will get on the this weekend now that i have all my tools from the move that i just did and i will print this so i have to run back and forth from my car to the computer.

[nismofly]

what kind of tires do you have?

[Dirty Dee]

Once you've set the front ride height as described above, either set the rear ride height so that the car is level in the profile view (from the side), or give the car a couple degrees of rake (rear slightly higher than the front). The more rake you have, the more rear traction you will have.

Doesnt making the rear higher than the front cause the front wheels to bear more weight, thus causing the rear wheels to have less traction?

[DrifterBoy240]

what kind of tires do you have?

just some regular all seasons but i will be getting some better tires once i can save some money because i just moved.

Doesnt making the rear higher than the front cause the front wheels to bear more weight, thus causing the rear wheels to have less traction?

well if you raise the rear just a bit or give it a little rake when you step on the gas the weight of the car moves back thus giveing the rear end more traction and when you brake the cars weight moves it forward.

its kinda like when you take off really fast or if you ina fats car you get thrown back into your seat well thats the weight of the car moving back to the rear wheels and when you brake exrtremly hard and the front of the car dives forward the weight of the car moves forward.

[nismofly]

just some regular all seasons but i will be getting some better tires once i can save some money because i just moved.

theres a big part of your problem, youre running 12kg/mm front and 10kg/mm rear springs with all season tires...either lower spring rates or far better tires will also net you a dramatic increase

[DrifterBoy240]

i figure that to be one of my problems, any suggestions on what tires to run? i want to drift and grip run my car.

[DrifterBoy240]

and amoebassassin i check my FLCA's the are level with the ground the rear is raised just a little bit to give it just a bit of rake.

and it was that way from when i slaped them on should i raise it or leave it?

[nismofly]

use cheap spares for drifting and run either hankook rs2's or falken rt615's for your normal tires

those springs are still too stiff for any street tire but theyll be the closest you can get without emptying your wallet on tires

[DrifterBoy240]

thanks for the info.

and eventually i do want to make my car a track car so i figured i would start early with my race mods so thats why i went with the megan tracks. and the roads around where i live are pretty smooth there isnt that many dips or major pot holes in the road.

but if you could explain to me why there to stiff for a DD please enlighten me, sorry but im new to suspension tunning and not trying to sound sarcastic in any way.

[nismofly]

basically short of running dot slicks on a track youll never use the full potential of those rates, so its not worth the compromise on the street

even on a track 12/10 is really still too stiff if you ask me

if you ever get at all serious about tracking you wont run megans anyway so you shouldnt worry about anything for right now

[DrifterBoy240]

thanks for the info again nismofly. maybe once i start getting more into suspension tunning i will get better suspension

[AmoebAssassin]

I have to go to class so this will be quick -- I'll elaborate more.

Adding ride height in the rear gives you more rear traction in corners because by raising your ride height, you bring your rear roll center closer to your rear center of gravity -- this decreases your roll moment arm, and therefore decreases your rear lateral load transfer, increasing your rear traction.

You don't choose spring rates by what tire you are running, you choose spring rates by finding your vehicle's natural frequency and using springs and dampers to set the natural frequency at where you want it (usually about 1Hz to 3Hz for a sports car). You also choose springs based on surface criteria. On a street, i'd go with 9/7 at the max. I run 8/6 currently, but I may go down to 7/5 and increase my roll bar stiffness. I'd only run 12/10 if you run on well prepped tracks.

Don't run Hankook RSIIs or Falken RT615s if your car only sees street use. It's a waste of tire. These two tires have pretty abysmal treadwear and you'll burn through tires a lot. Goodyear F1 GS-D3s are expensive, but have a good compromise of treadwear and traction.

Drifterboy, your ride height depends on your sense of style, and your needs as a driver. If you like how the car looks and drives, then leave the front where it is. If you want a little more front traction, raise the front (and rear) accordingly.

[DrifterBoy240]

thanks amoebassassin, the car handles fine for now but latly i really havent had to time to go out and run it hard but for now it handles fine i still think i gotta adjust the rear camber and shocks.