How long does it take to tune a kat w/ safc?

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daniel240
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well i debating on buying a wideband and tuning it myself or taking it to the only dyno around here that charges $125/hr. just want to get some opinions on the average time it should take. thanks


Silvia007
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Unless they are an experienced shop, I'd spend the money on a wide band and do it yourself. The shops here that have dyno's suck terribly. They would slack off, talk on the phone, etc, etc, while charging you for it. Not only that, they just ran it twice.

Structure240sx
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once you get used to the settings it does not take long to tune with the safc. maybe 30min street driving to get a decent tune. i would invest in the wideband so if you ever put in bigger injectors or up the fuel pressure you will be able to tune right there.

the shops wideband could be used and also since its in the muffler can read a little more lean than the motor really is

daniel240
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well i kind of know the guys at the shop so i would be there while they are doing it, so i doubt they would slack off. i could also pay by the run, which is $75/3runs. about how many pulls whould it take?

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Drift Machine
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3 runs should be sufficent.

bruinbear714
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With a wideband it should take you about 20 minutes to zone in on the major adjustments, and about another hour to fine tune it.

driftjunke
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75 bucks for 3 runs? Around here on average its 50 for 3 runs, Talk to them see if they'll work you in an extra run or 2, Alot of times, some places will charge you less if you want to tune it yourself, sit in the passenger seat while they do some runs, see if they'll give you a half an hour for 75 bucks, that'll definitely give you enough time to tune in a afc.

J.D.

daniel240
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yea i know, they are a rip off, but they just opened up and they are the only shop within 2 or 3 hours from here with a dyno. i will talk to them tomorrow and see what they can do. ive never tuned with a safc before so it would take me too long to figure it out if i did it there.

574-240sx
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I tuned with a wideband the day before I went to the dyno. I had a freind watch the monitor on the wideband I did several 3rd gear pulls on the local highway. I red off the rpm as he watched the wideband. The next day my air fuels were decent when I went to the dyno. I suggest the wideband with a dyno run. when I was at the dyno their air/fuel sniffer thing they put by your exhaust was worse than my wideband. Its up to you.

Nick

Structure240sx
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the trick is to get a wideband display as close to your tach as possible so you can see whats goin on better.

or you can watch the wideband and when you see its too lean get off the gas. then hit the peak hold on the safc to see what rpm you were at, then make your adjustments.

just get the safc and play with it and ask us questions. just think the first time you drove stick it took you a while to get used to it. now your a pro

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nof03
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Do it yourself first then take it to dyno. What shop are you going to?

daniel240
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thanks guys. actually im using a hacked mafs with my safcII so my a/f's are already close to what they should be, just a little rich. im using a 2.6" id pipe for the mafs, which is a little smaller than the theoretical correct size. so it should just need to be fine tuned.

nof03, im going to a new shop here in Evansville, called Total Performance

SloS13
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Id just get the wideband. Next time you make a change to the car, its back to the Dyno = moar money.

If you're entreprnurial or however that word is spelled, you could rent out your wideband for $25/day or somethin

I hear the new TechEdge is very cheap ~$225 or so

Structure240sx
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^ im with stupid. ill be tunning a couple friends cars for $50

daniel240
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ive got one more question. im not going to be recirculating my bov so can tell me what settings i need for the dec. air on the safc. i have 370 injectors. i have no idea what to set it to.

Structure240sx
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something around 1.0 striaght down for the dec. air settings should be good with the 370's and stock maf. search for this. there is an actual process to get it close.

daniel240
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well i just started it up for the first time since i installed the safc, and it wont idle at all, it just dies immediately. i have to have my foot on the gas to keep it running. i tried adjusting the idle but it does no good. idk what it could be, it ran the last time i ran it about a month ago. with the safc install i also changed manifolds, and got a fmic, and redid all my piping and got a 3'' downpipe, and got a different mafs, because i think my old one was bad. i dont think any of that could have caused it not to idle. any ideas? i read on the safc instructions and it says if it does not idle then to check if the harness is connected in the wrong position and make sure the sensor type is correctly set. i have the sensor type 5in 5out, and sensor cal. 1in 1out. damn this is pissing me off

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GEO
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*cough* clean your maf *cough*

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D Money
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does it idle when you unplug the maf? did you connect everything right? my brother forgot to connect the tps when he put an safc in

Structure240sx
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go to sensor cheak to see the voltage goiong to the maf and tps. try the different sensor cal. settings, theres only a few i forget what i have. also did u set the dec. air? did u adjust the fuel maps at all? you shouldnt have to for the idle since you have the hacked mafs

daniel240
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i thought the book said almost all cars use 1in 1out for the sensor cal. settings, thats what i have it as. i tried 1.0 1.0 1.0 for the dec air settings also. i havent adjusted anything on it yet, because it should run just like it did before without the safc.

daniel240
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well i was having even more problems with it today. i went to start it and it ran like ****, barely even running. i checked the plugs and they were fouled and soaked in gas. i thought possibly it could have been from my turning on and off the ignition messing with the safc, letting the fuel pump run maybe got too much fuel in there and thats why it would barely run. so i cleaned the plugs and put them back in, started it up and it was still running like **** so i drove it hoping to clear it all out, and after about a minute of driving it finally started running better, however, it still was not running right and it would die if i let off the gas. when i got back it would barely idle like at 500 rpm and was jumping up and down and almost dieing each time. i tried adjusting the idle adjustment but it didnt seem to do anything. then it just died. i checked the plugs again and they were totally black but were not wet. i have not adjusted any of the fuel maps and i still have the dec air set at 1, 1, 1. and my sensor cal. setting at 1in 1out. i also cleaned my mafs. i checked the voltage for the mafs, and when the engine is off, in-1: 0.525V and in-2: 0.015V. when it was running while i held my foot on the gas at about 1000rpm in-1 was about 1.9V and in-2: 0.045Vi dont know what else to do. to me it seems like its running real rich, but it shouldnt be because it ran fine before, when i ran this same hacked mafs setup.

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GEO
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Leak? too much gas and not enough air.

daniel240
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just checked my cel codes and i got a few. here they are:21) Ignition signal in primary circuit not being entered to ecu during cranking25) Idle Air Control Valve81) Vacuum cut bypass valve87) EVAP canister purge control91) front O2 sensor93) EVAP canister vent control valve132) not sure what this is

Structure240sx
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since you redid the IC piping did you hook a vaccuum to the IACV? an idle like that seems more like its running very lean at idle, but you said the plugs can be wet sometimes. try adjusting the fuel maps some for the hell of it to see if you can get it to run better.

get a wideband damnit!! makes things so much easier. its hard to go by other peoples settings

daniel240
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IACV thats the larger vac hose under the TB right? yea i hooked that one up. Now im thinking the problem at least has something to do with the dec. air settings because i just pulled the vac hose off my bov and plugged it, then i started it up and it idled pretty good. i also set the dec air settings to **,0,0. then i hooked the vac hose back up to the bov and it started idling bad and if i gave it gas and let off it would die or almost die.

Structure240sx
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well that would mean your BOV is leaking. which could explain alot of this

daniel240
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i dont think the bov is leaking, that is what its suppose to do. anytime the intake manifold pressure is negative, it will open the bov at least a little. and when i start it up and idle, it is at -20 so the bov should be opened. because when you shift when accelerating, the pressure goes from positive to neg and thats what makes the bov open. and the dec. air setting is suppose to correct this for me right?

Structure240sx
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NO the bov should bot be open during idle. i run an atmospheric bov and it does not leak.

daniel240
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i searched but i cant find anything on how to set the dec. air settings. can you explain it?


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