how hot, is too hot?

[krayton]

welp my car still sees high temps. ive been tackling heating issues since the day my car started going sideways

so what does everyone run at? im trying to push a full out 20 min session and i cant make it. i resort to using half the track to cool down.

my temps hit 106 C. which i use as the "cool the jets" time. i let the car down to about 99 C then start pounding a few turns and it jumps right back up.

just wanna know what everyone else hits. maybe the RBs do just run hot and im ok? talking to the SR guys and they said they call 90+ as getting too hot.

ps this is arizona on a hot day at the track

[Joe]

to clarify the "hot day" thing this weekend at PIR air temps were about 100 in the pits. just above asphalt on track probably near 150.

i was starting to run warm at the end of the day so we are both trying to figure out ways to upgrade.

[monkeyofdrift]

I have an RB25, last time I took the car out for a 3-4hr drive, temp was at 80-90c nothing seem tobe wrong I've been driving ever since, my mods are HKS Fmic, koyo radiator, custom heat shield with air duct, I just think these motors just run real hot.I think I'm going to buy a hood with a open vent, lol to let all that hot air out.

[yellow_jacket]

The thermostat should open at about 85C (185F). If you are getting up to 220F then it is definetely running hotter than it should.

[jdmser]

Im running between 150 and 165F with a new water pump, gts4 radiator, 90%water 10%dexcool,two 12" pushers,and a derale fan switch set to come on at 170F. Its been in the 90s here with no problems. Oh yeah, its a RB20.

[Joe]

i think you guys are overlooking something. this isnt driving around town, or a long drive, this is on a racetrack, a roadcourse. for an extended period of time going as hard as possible.

[Imissmyturbo]

I like to keep mine around 85-91 (91 is when the fans come on) When it gets above 91 I turn my heat on and I don't get on it when I don't have to. My stock gauge starts to climb up around 101-103.

[Wulfgang]

The OEM temperature switch for the electric fan comes on at 90C and goes back off at 80C. And the thermostat just begins to open up at 76C, not 85C. So that should give you some idea of where the stock temps should be.

However, hotter is better from an efficiency and power standpoint (from thermodynamics).... until you start to detonate. So run it as hot as you want... as long as you aren't detonating, you're fine. Practically, though, you'll want to run a bit cooler so that you can keep up a good bit of advance to make the most power.

[Yellow4g63]

My temp go up to like 93c if I drive up a grade. If I mash it and build boost the temp go up from 83c to 95c. I'm thinking it's A. My head gasket, Car over heated once. B the radiator is just not big enough to cool the motor. I have a modine in it right now and it's way better than the factory unit that I had at 1st. Us Socali/Az/NZ guys have it rough Heat owns us lol.

[krayton]

i hear that. and these events we do out here are not forgiving.

rather then just your regular 1 run kind of event, this is a haul *** 20 min session of drifting.

i think im gonna take it to the next step and cut of fmy rad support. angle the radiator to almost a V mount setup. or something along those lines. i want the radiator to be right in the open getting all the air it can.

hopefully see how this new setup runs

[Andrew85cm]

Yeah I started having heat problems after I installed my fmic. I dont know if it was a coincidence or what. I assumed that the air going through my fmic was hot and wasn't cooling the radiator efficiently enough. I was running a 14" perma-cool fan on a temperature switch set to come on at 180* F. I figured since I was only running one fan I mine as well install the other 12" I had so I did that and set it up to a manual switch in cabin. Whenever it would get to 180-185 I would flip it on especially while driving hard.

This seemed to work out okay but on my way to PA where I go to college from NC it was overheating so I got to drive the whole way with the windows up from the rain and heat blasting. I figured it was better me than the car. I managed to keep it at a reasonable temp unless I boosted hard. I suspected the thermostat since I never changed it when I put the motor in. I think it turned out to be another issue that wore out the water pump but either way. I am replacing my water pump (and timing belt while I'm at it) and thermostat. Hopefully this will fix my issues. I am sure my fans are pumping enough. LOL a 14" and 12" should do her right.

Anyway I like to keep my temps right around 185 for a good operating temp. But that's just me I don't want to d!ck anything up. I have had it spike to 210 or so on a couple of occasions but that is not good.

~ANDREW~

[scottsi]

if you overheat the engien constantly you will blow the headgasket, and if you keep doing it you will warp the head, and a simple headgasket fix wont stop it from overheating and bubbles coming out of the overflow. i learned this lesson the hard way.

[Bluefire]

Well when your tracking your car you will run hot. It is really common to be running in 100C range. But this is what I have on my car or will be going on in the near future. Short of going v-mount

1: Custom dual-pass radiator (I hate my koyo!!!)2: Shrouded puller fans3: radiator shrouding (Need to direct that air into the radiator, not around it)4: Vented hood5: Oil Cooler6: Manifold, Turbo, Downpipe shielding

etc.. etc..

-Bluefire

[240z4u]

I just wanted to add a quick bit of information for those who want to build a shroud to direct air into thier radiator or I/C. When building a shroud, the opening should be smaller than the radiator, and can be up to 50 percent less surface area then the unit your forcing air through.

This is from corky bells maximum boost, but a useful piece of information. Its actually a bit more complex, but this gives some idea.

Evan

[krayton]

Well when your tracking your car you will run hot. It is really common to be running in 100C range. But this is what I have on my car or will be going on in the near future. Short of going v-mount

1: Custom dual-pass radiator (I hate my koyo!!!)2: Shrouded puller fans3: radiator shrouding (Need to direct that air into the radiator, not around it)4: Vented hood5: Oil Cooler6: Manifold, Turbo, Downpipe shielding

etc.. etc..

-Bluefire

exactly what im running, minus the oil cooler. (but using the stock one if that counts )

im was just about to go somewhat of a V, but i decided to do a lil bit more ducting and see how it holds at the next event. just cause i realized the last event was about as hot as it would ever get and the engine did pretty good.

240z4u, good info to know.