how hard is the turbo instal

[get_up_mark]

like its says how hard was it to turbo your ka. im lookin to most likely complete the set up on my on but im having doubts becuase some of the oil lines seem like they are going to be a ***** i cant pull the engine. did anyone do the install with the ka inside the engine bay im sure it has been done many times.

[wild_maxx]

the oil lines wont be the biggest problem its tapping into the oil pan with it still on is where u might have some problems. i did my ka-t install in a bout a week all together because i took my time and had to post alot on this forum for help. its not terribly hard to install a turbo if you have a good general idea of mechanics. i had a friend that was helping me with my install and he didnt know much about it, but he name a few obvious things that i messed up on. just do alot of research and know what your want to accomplish whit this install and you could get it done.

[WDRacing]

Are you buying a kit, if so which one. I fabbed my whole kit from scratch with the motor in the car. You don't even need to tap the oil pan anymore. You can use a pump to pull the oil from the turbo and push it into the oil cap. It's super easy and pretty cheap to do.

If your interested I will post up the info on parts and whatnot.

[skatanic28]

hey brian, would you mind posting it? i'd like to take a look as well. thanks

[ILikeMy240sx]

+ditto... did you get a cam yet WD? if so, pics would be nice too

[Craving4Boost]

it's very possible for a Noob to turbo...i personally didnt know much about mechanics...i dont know how to fix cars or anything like that...however i just learned strictly on how to install a turbo kit...its fairly simple once you get the basic idea of it..but pictures! you need pictures! or else you are lost..always ask questions and ask for pictures if you could....anyways have hope because its very possible for anyone to turbo and i'm almost done....i do have an advantage of my dad being a mechanic so he can help me fix my car if anything happens..but he didnt help me install the turbo kit!

also a good thing is that you start learning mechanics during your time learning about Turbo...its a lot of fun...good luck

And i never pulled the motor FYI...only thing i was closed to pulling was my back

[dDogg32]

I was also thinking about installing a stage 1 turbo kit from boostdesigns.com and was wondering if that kit comes with everything I need.. also was gonna put the KA-T exhaust from the same webstie on and was wondering kind of horses I could expect everything else is stock.

[blubottlemax]

was wondering kind of horses I could expect

If you breed them right, you can get some black sterling freisians... that will really help you go in style, then you can ride down and SEARCH...

BTW, if you actually were to look at BD's website, it tells you how much power you can expect.

[nissanfanatic]

I installed my kit in three days. started at about 10pm on wednesday, got the engine out at around 12:30am. Then worked from aobut 11am to prolly 1am the next day(plenty of trips to ace in there too.lol). Then started about 11am the next day and had it running around 2pm. Hardest part for me was getting the engine back in. It was a pita to install Im guessing because of a brand new pilot bushing.

[Ubernoober]

I think we all hate the tight fit of the transmission in the tunnel.I guess the Nissan engineers were looking to inject a little pain into everyones lives.

[Structure240sx]

getup- i live in NJ and if u need help on the install or jstu want me to do it let me know

[ralphsdiorama]

Do you need to take then engine out to install the stage 1 turbo kit from boostdesigns.com?

[ILikeMy240sx]

BD stage 1 is not a complete kit... Does not come with any fuel management nor any fuel upgrade nor any timing management... althogh the third is not a necessity (some might call it a MUST) it would be much better to have it.

From what I hear no you do not need to take the engine out to install turbo. You can take the swaw bar off, unbolt the engine mount and jack it up a little to take the oil pan off

BTW, Stage 1+ fuel pump + bigger injectors +bigger MAF + Enthalpy ECU would be a complete setup.. Thats what Im shooting for after this summer.

[Craving4Boost]

no you dont...and also ive never heard of a turbo kit that REQUIRED you to take the motor out to install it.

Structure...i live in CA and i would like you to do it...just wanted to let you know

[Structure240sx]

fly me out there i would love the vacation

[ILikeMy240sx]

hey structure do you wanna take a trip to MI? lol Ill buy you a six pack + dinner at a steak house

[vvaffle]

If your interested I will post up the info on parts and whatnot.

I think more than a few of us are eager to see this setup whenever you think it's perfected. I live in nj too in case you want someone to stand around and make smartass comments while you work on the car.

[DammitBobby]

Do you need to take then engine out to install the stage 1 turbo kit from boostdesigns.com?

Stage1 Kit with FMUThings that you can do before your kit arrives and still be able to drive your car. Make sure your car is set at stock timing for StageI with FMU or StageII with the Enthalpy ECU upgrade. If you plan on using anything else the standard rule is retard base timing .5 per psi above 8 psi. The gap on the spark plugs need to be change from factory 45 gap to 32 gap. If your project is going to take longer then a weekend to install you may want to have your battery recharged the day before you try to start the car. You can get this done for free at AutoZone by telling them you need to charge and test your battery.

If this is your first turbo project I would highly recommend going the FMU and Walbro fuel pump route. It is plug and play. Remember that the more you change things the more chances of things going wrong and the harder it is to trouble shoot what the problem is. Plus you don`t have to change your injectors, mess with wiring or programming. The FMU adds more fuel pressure for every psi. This works well up to 10 psi boost. Later if you want to upgrade to the Stage II, all you have to do is remove the FMU and sell it on the internet. The Walbro fuel pump will handle the fuel delivery all the way through StageIII.

1. Compression test.Need to do a compression test now to make sure everything is within standards. It will also help you troubleshoot knowing what your compression now will take the guess work out later. The compression gauge( $40 at Autozone) will come with instructions on how to do this properly. Make sure you have a fully charged battery and a good starter(300rpm). The standard compression on all cylinders is 180. The lowest compression that you should read is 151. There should be no more then 14 difference between cylinders. If your readings are close to 151 you might want to consider rebuilding your motor first.

2. Relocate the battery in the trunk. This needs to be done in order to have room for the IC piping. I went to the stereo shop and got a distribution block to connect all the power cables to in the front of the car and a positive distribution block for the trunk. I went to Autozone and got a plastic battery tray and battery hold down kit. Remove the old battery tray. The tray is welded to different parts of the body. I used an air hammer to remove it.

3. Remove the AIV and Pair valve. This needs to be done to allow enough room to install the turbo kit.

4. Weld the return bung Remove the oil pan and weld the return plug with plug installed. This will save you a lot of time when you get ready to install the Stage1 kit. It will also give you some time to test for any oil leaks before you install your kit.

5. Install Walbro fuel pumpThe fuel pump is located in the trunk on the passenger side. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump and remove the fuel cap. The fuse is located on the passenger side next to the water overflow tank. Start the car and let it run until it quits. This will remove the fuel pressure from the fuel line. Remove the cover and disconnect the wire. Unbolt the fuel pump assembly and disconnect the 2 fuel lines. The directions for replacing the pump are included in the kit. This would also be a good time to install the fuel gauge. The fuel gauge goes between the fuel filter and the fuel rail.

Parts needed to be purchased to install Stage1 kit▸ Oil and oil filter. The kit requires you to remove the oil pan and weld a return bung in the oil pan.▸ Spark plugs NGK gapped at 32.▸ Walbro 255 fuel pump($99 at BD). ▸ Mechanical fuel pressure gauge($12 local) and 1/8 NPT T 3/8 barb($12 local). This gauge would go after the fuel filter(Pressure side). This will help when you dyno your car and tell you if your FPR and FMU is working properly.▸ Boost gauge($50 at BD). You will also have to determine where to place the gauge. I decided on the piller pod($40 at BD). You will need to get an npt 1/4 adapter with a barb nozzle($3 local) on the other end to connect to the vacuum line. Home Depot is your friend here.▸ Autozone felpro gasket set($10) for the exhaust manifold. ▸ Teflon tape for all the NPT fittings. ▸ Gasket sealer for the oil pan. ▸ WD40 and carb cleaner(Stuff you should have). ▸ Hose clamps 8 *2.5, 6 *3/8, 1 *3, 1 *3.5 . ▸ Vacuum line T`s. ▸ 1 2.5 inch mandrel bend U pipe to connect to the stock MAF and Turbo inlet.▸ 3 to a 2.5 reducer coupler and one 6 inch long 2.5 inch coupler. ▸ 14 2.5inch hose clamps▸ 2 3.5inch hose clamps▸ About 2feet of 5/16 Fuel injection hose.▸ Vacuum lines I went to the store several times to get everything I needed. Careful planning is needed to know how much of what you are going to need. Another words you need to know where everything is going to be located and what size hose will connect to each actuator device(FMU, wastgate, BOV and boost gauge).▸ PCV air filter and plastic pipe to connect to the existing hose. The plastic pipe can be purchased at Home Depot.▸ Oil strainer pickup gasket. You will need this because you will have to remove the oil strainer to remove the oil pan. There are 2 different gaskets for the S13 make sure you order the correct one. I ordered the wrong one and had to make mine from a gasket sheet.

Optional ▸ Remove Mechanical Fan and Shroud This step would be optional but I would recommend it. Removing the fan shroud and mechanical fan. This will give you a lot of extra room and make it easier to work on the engine. Only draw back is that you will need a electric fan, NISMO thermostat and radiator cap to prevent overheating. If you plan on doing this you will need to get at least 12 washers. The washers will be needed to go between the pulley and lock nut. You will notice 4 small vacuum lines going across the fan shroud. 2 go to the pair valve and 2 go to the fuel canister( I removed my fuel canister). All 4 need to be cut and plugged up. There is also a large hose that is connected to the fan shroud and air intake that will not be needed.

Installing Stage 1 kit

1. Tools required 2 jack stands1 floor jack1 Breaker barSeveral different extensionsMetric sockets 3/8 Deep well 14mm,12mm. Metric sockets 3/8 standard 8mm,10mm,12mm and 14mmMetric socket 1/4 standard 10mmMetric socket ½ Impact 14mm and Impact extensionWrenches 10mm,12mm and 14mmWeld bung on the oil panWeld a connector on the IC piping for the BOVWD40Oil wrenchOil container Compression gaugeNeedle nose pliersChannel locksTool to cut 3 inch holeWire cuttersMechanic gloves (You will thank me later)Carb Cleaner ( I like this better then engine cleaner)Lots of shop towels

2. Find a location that you can jack your front end up and leave for several days.You want to jack the front end up at least 2 feet to allow you room to get underthe car and remove the oil pan, exhaust system and front bumper.

3. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump. It is located on the passenger side next to the water overflow tank. Start the car and let it run until it quits. This will remove the fuel pressure from the fuel line.

4. Disconnect the battery ground cable, drain oil pan and remove the oil filter and oil sending unit.

5. Remove the nut that is holding the motor mount from the bottom on both sides. Remove the 2 bolts on each side that is holding the front sway bar to the frame. This will allow you to remove the oil pan towards the front of the car. Place the jack under the transmission and jack it up enough were you can remove the oil pan (It does not take much).After taking off all the bolts holding the pan use a screw driver(be careful not to bend the pan) to pry the pan from the block. Once the pan is broken loose and kind of hanging there, you will want to unbolt the pickup tube(3 bolts) to make it easier to remove the oil pan. After removing the pan weld the return bung on with the center of the bung on the drivers side of the pan exactly 6" back from the front body of the pan (not the flange) and 7/8" from the underside of the top rail. You will find it to be pretty close to the spot weld that holds the windage tray in place. This will place the return between the front of the motor mount and the back of the AC compressor.

6. Removing the exhaust system. Remove 3 bolts holding the exhaust system to the exhaust manifold. Remove 2 bolts holding the catalytic converter to the exhaust system. Once this is done it will allow you to remove a 2 foot section of the exhaust system. Remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold. Remove the EGR metal tube (3/4 inch tube) from the back of the exhaust manifold. You will need to block off this tube this will not be needed. Remove the bolt holding the oil dipstick and move out of the way. Remove the heat shield (6 bolts).Now you can remove the exhaust manifold(8 nuts).

7. Remove the entire air box assembly. You should notice a nice cut 2 ½ hole this is where the IC piping will route through.. The MAF is connected to the air intake disconnect the wire and Remove the air intake connected to the throttle body.

8. Install the new BD manifold and new exhaust gaskets tighten down to specs. Before bolting the turbo to the manifold loosen the bolts on the cold side of the turbo. Connect the oil return line to the oil pan bung. Next connect the oil return line to the turbo. Bolt the turbo to the manifold( there are no gaskets for this because it is a machined surface.) Next bolt the downpipe to the turbo flange(no gaskets same reason) but make sure you don`t tighten it down. It helped me to start the bottom bolt first and then start bolting each side. The tricky part is bolting the wastegate to the manifold and the downpipe. The wastegate has a crush washer that needs to be put in place and bolted to the manifold. The other side of the wastegate needs to be bolted to the downpipe. This is a tight fitting make sure you only turn the bolts a few times until all 4 bolts have been started. Now you can tighten the downpipe and next the wastegate. Connect a hose from the wastegate side barb to the turbo side barb. Connect the return line to the oil pan.

9. Remove the front bumper to get access to install the intercooler. Place the intercooler under the aframe and drill hole on each side. It should be a snug fit. Make sure to put the clamps on before you slide the hose on at each connection and don`t tighten any of the clamps until you have everything connected. It helped me to put some WD40 on the inside of the hoses to help slip them on because it is a tight fitting. Next connect the turbo side IC pipe to the turbo remember in step 5 that you loosened the turbo this allows you to adjust to the IC piping.. Connect the 2 inch to 2 1/4 hose to the turbo housing. The 2 inch hose connects to the turbo the 2 1/4 hose connects to the IC piping. Next connect the 2 1/4 hose to the next IC piping to the IC. It should be a tight fit and not loose.

The other side will require you to drill a 2 ½ hole ( I suggest a 3 inch hole allow for IC piping to move around.) A test fitting on this side so do not tighten clamps down until the hole is cut. Next connect the 3 to 2 1/4 hose to the throttle body(3 inch to the throttle body). Connect the IC piping to the throttle body. All we are trying to do now is to see where we need to cut the hole. Next connect the 2 1/4 hose to the IC and connect the IC piping. This should give you an idea of where to cut the hole. Cut the hole and retest before clamping down. Once all the pipes are connect tighten down all the clamps.

Once you have connected all the IC piping you need to decide where to install the BOV. The BOV kit comes with a connector that has to be welded on the IC piping. I placed mine on the hot side so that if I want I can recirculate the BOV. Use a sharpie and mark the spot you want to weld the connector. Once the connector is welded you can reinstall and tighten all the IC piping. The BOV connects by simply pushing it on and using the allen wrench that is supplied with the kit to tighten it down.

10. Install the breather to the Maf that came with the kit. It has 4 bolts and a gasket. You will need a 2 ½ inch custom mandrel bend pipe to connect to the turbo. Next connect the 3 inch hose to 2 ½ hose to the turbo. Connect the custom mandrel bend pipe to the MAF and breather to the Inlet pipe and connect the inlet pipe to the turbo.

11. Install the FMU on the shock tower next to the fuel filter. I would recommend a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to go on the same line as the fuel filter(Pressure side). This will tell you if your fuel pressure is at around 35psi and if the FMU is putting more pressure at boost. You can get a mechanical gauge for less then 20bucks and the fitting for around 10bucks. You can only get a 3/8 fitting go ahead and get that and use 5/16 hose to connect to your existing fuel setup.

12. Locate vacuum source. I used the brake booster as my vacuum source. Only problem with using that if your hose leaks or comes loose you will have a hard time stopping. Another source would be the Fuel pressure regulator. What ever source you use you need to connect the FMU, BOV and the boost gauge.

13. Connect the oil pressure T where the oil sending unit was located. Connect the turbo oil pressure line to the side of the T and then connect the oil sending unit to the end of the T.During this procedure I had to remove the alternator and a bracket that had 3 bolts to allow me to tighten the oil pressure T connector.

14. Install oil and oil filter.

15. Turn the car over remember to leave the fuse for the fuel pump disconnected. This was done in step 3. Continue to turn the car over until the oil warning light goes off. This could take a few minutes. Now install the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car up. Let the car warm up and check for any loose connections and oil leaks. Test drive car with out boosting and then tighten the manifold bolts again.

16. At this point you are ready to test the turbo. Slowly push the accelerator until you see the boost gauge rise in boost if the car stumbles or misfires let off the accelerator. Something is wrong and needs to be corrected. I would recommend taking the car to a Dyno shop to help you with tunning. The average cost is 60 bucks for 3 runs.

This document is intended to be used as a guide to help you with the installation of your BD kit. The Author takes no responsibilities for errors or wrong information.

DefinitionsIC IntercoolerIC piping Intercooler pipingBOV Blow off valveFMU Fuel management upgradeMAF Mass Air Flow sensorFPR Fuel pressure regulatorHot side The piping connected from the turbo to the intercoolerCold side The piping connected from the intercooler to the throttle bodyBSPT British standard pipe thread (Oil sending unit)NPT National pipe thread (United States standard)

[get_up_mark]

brooke iv read your post on the instal before and it really helped. stucture im from north jersey in lake hopatcong and that would be awesome if you could help me. i cant let you do it for me cuz i need to learn from the experiance but if you could help it would be greatly apreciated. im looking at boost designs stage one by the way with an afc2 500cc injectors and a walbro fuel pump unit. i have a spec stage 2 clutch installed and a 3 inch exhaust. im waiting to order the turbo kit becuase i called xatracing to get a shipping quote and they said next tuesday they will post the new kit becuase apparently they have worked out with some bugs. the guy at xat said he installed like 7 or 8 kits and 1 had the wrong size spring in the wastegate and the car overboosted so theyre fixing some stuff up and then im gonna make the order. thanks everyone.