Hi everyone.

My wife really likes her 2015 Rogue Select and I like to keep my cars a long time so I service them. (We are teachers so I'm a "have to" mechanic). I've drained and filled the CVT fluid at least 6 times now and I'm at 87,000 miles on the O.D. The Rogue still drives like a dream so far. For the next drain and fill, I'd like to replace the filter screen since it probably has debris by now. But in preparation of having what I need, I've noticed that access to 2 or 3 of the pan bolts is very, very difficult due to being near a frame/subframe. There is a little room but not much at all. It appears to me that normal sockets and extension won't work. Is there a trick like a special swivel and ultra thin sockets that mechanics use?

What tools does anyone recommend to remove the CVT pan on Rogue Select that seems to be very, very close to the frame/sub frame for 2 or 3 of the bolts. The bolts only have 5 to 8 pounds of torque from what I've read. There's rust issues where I live by the beach in Florida so I'll probably replace all of the bolts so it's easy to service in the future.

thanks!

I did about a half dozen drain & fills at 87,000 miles not to the lead up, so I was very, very, very, late in the game.

When I removed the pan, I didn’t know about the difficult bolt beforehand. But I do remember it clearly when I had to cross that bridge.

The point is when you are facing it at that moment, you will eventually figure how to remove it.

It is one of those situations where you have to confront it face to face and see the supposed hard bolt to remove during your procedure, only then 99% of the time you should be able to figure it out.

I’m a forum learning person, watching people change their transmission pans on all sorts of vehicles on YouTube before doing it myself, learning this and that on how to tackle this project. Researching.

Yes, I remember vividly the difficult bolt, but YET it was not too difficult to remove, and I’m not a mechanic just a weekend car enthusiast.

Don’t worry too much, if a regular guy like me can remove the transmission pan successfully, anyone can.

Fun story, while cleaning the pan, some black paint flaked off while I was cleaning some debris with my fingernail!

My ocd kicked in so I left my rogue on ramps for a week until a new one from EBay arrived.

With my bad luck, I thought more would flake off and clog my delicate cvt passages.

So the new eBay pan has been going strong for several years with the old one as back up if ever needed.

Lastly, while under there, torque those bolts lying upside down after removing the pan. I learned that tip from CrisFix. Some bolts were actually looser than others.

I have a 14 yr old Rogue.

I'm with @casperfun. I did a pan drop on my daughter's 2011 and there was a bolt or 2 that was "fun" but not impossible. I can't remember how I got them out, but it was not terribly difficult. I may have used a box-end wrench or a swivel with the socket.

Okay thanks guys. So it sounds like you removed it with common tools since you don't remember having to buy anything to get it done. I did purchase a very thin 10mm socket so hopefully that does the trick. I might get a swivel and then try different lengths for exentions. (I think if you use a long extension, then you won't be able to get on the heads as the pan or frame will push the socket too far away). My guess is you guys were able to reach those 2 or 3 bolts by using a short extension so you can get close to the head by getting away from the pan and the frame?

I just found out they make 10mm socket (and others) with a built in 1/4 drive u-joint swivel. That seems to be what people use for hard to reach pan bolts. I ordered one on Amazon.

None of them were hard to reach for me, after taking the plastic
splash shield off. They're straight down and reachable with a 1/4"
ratchet and extension, I didn't use any swivel.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 16, 2023 11:51 pm

None of them were hard to reach for me, after taking the plastic
splash shield off. They're straight down and reachable with a 1/4"
ratchet and extension, I didn't use any swivel.

FYI, the gen1's are a little different and there's a crosspiece in the way of two of the rear screws. Those are the ones the other guys are referencing, and a 10mm swivel-socket will save a lot of goofing around with a box wrench.