Hi Guys
I just acquired a 1963 320 (titled as 1964) and it has an A14 motor currently installed.
I found a guy that has an 1964 truck with engine and trans he will sell but I want to know how I can tell if its the e1 or the J 13.. What should the block numbers say?
Thanks

Welcome aboard!

Most of us can tell by looking - do you have a photo?

Also, there's some info on the E-1 engine serial numbers on the homepage at datsun320.com.

Hi There
I hope these pictures share.. but here you go..
Not cleaned up yet but this is what he sent me. Seems like J13 but also has the 1200 valve cover..
I'm not trying to sound dumb.. i have had datsuns for 25 years.. just sedan's and 620 pickups..


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That's a J13 alright. I would not be too concerned about what the valve cover says considering they are interchangeable between the E and J and the BMC B motor.

Here's a few more pics if you have the time of my J13 -

https://www.flickr.com/photos/113742723 ... 406840355/

and an E1 MK IV with bolt on upright oil filter canister -

https://www.flickr.com/photos/113742723 ... 933454918/

Welcome aboard and let us know what help/assistance you might need.

Cheers
Li'l Truckie

Hi Guys

Ok. so currently in the truck is an A14.. What do I need to be aware of swapping from the A14 floor shift back to the J13 with column shift..
I know there will be a hole in the floor.. but what else? Linkage to move? Motor mounts?
I should get all the parts from the donor truck\engine (including drive shaft)

datsunfan1963,

I should get all the parts from the donor truck\engine (including drive shaft)

Yes, this would be the preferred method and based upon the condition of another 320 you could chose which one is in better overall condition to get in driving order.

Your other option of locating and purchasing individual parts will get expensive over time and a big "if" is can you locate and purchase every essential part necessary to change your 320 back to a column shift - I would venture to say no - sorry.

A few unknowns to consider are the fabrications made to your present 320's frame for A14 engine and transmission mounts. Again, cost of repairs here can be costly to fabricate new frame mounting points for the engine and repairs to the cross member where the transmission/rear engine mounts bolt on.

The A14 is a good motor , probably has a few more horse, and ready available tune up parts. So you might consider keeping the A14 in place and enjoy the 320 while you try to source the necessary parts or locate a donor 320.

Hope that helps and does not dampen your motivation.

Li'l Truckie

the reason I am wanting this other motor is the A14 ran low of oil and doesn't turn smoothly.. It will turn by hand.. have a 'hard spot' and then turn past.. so its not a happy motor.. and for the price I can't go wrong.
I don't suppose any of you live in the portland, OR \ vancouver area

Welcome to the forum. If you change to column shift, get the transmission cover floor pan with the rest of the column shift mechanism from the donor truck. The pans change out with about a dozen bolts. The column shift pan has a good deal lower hump and has the dipstick hole in the right location for the column-shift trany.

Take a look at Truckie's 'Running on a Budget' thread. He's included tons of info and photos that show the floor pan setup.

Steve

Sorry to hear about the A14 and if that is the case, I'd just go ahead and tear it down and see what the damage is. Just take lots of pictures, make sure the engine is at #1 TDC, and note the position of the distributor rotor and distributor drive cog before starting in.. Its pretty simple. Seriously doubt you can do any more damage. Once disassembled have a reputable machine shop give it a look - that's the block, rods, crank, pistons and head. Disassembly should cost next to nothing beyond special tools, and if you are lucky the machine shop should not charge you more than a hours labor for an initial look or if it obviously a shot motor then nothing. I was not charged a dime for my estimate on my E1 and my son and I were in the shop for about an hour as he mic'ed my parts.

I still think you will be ahead of the game by staying with the A14 if you cannot find a J or E within driving distance of you.

Yeah, sorry Steve and I are in the Midwest - OK for Steve and KS for me. Shipping a 400lbs engine would be kind of costly.

Andy

I have it all set to go to Idaho next week to get the J13 engine and transmission and all parts..

Wow, sounds great! Let me know if would like some "mobile" assistance and we can compare J13's over the phone to insure you are getting everything. I'll just pull mine away from the wall and put it in the middle of the garage.

One thing I do not have for mine is the wiring for the electric choke. Other wise mine is complete with motor mounts and complete intake and exhaust.

If you would like any additional pics - let me know and I'll get those to you also.

Let me know and I'll PM you good number.

Andy

Awesome! Thank You

Well-done, gents!

Tell your friends - We've got the 320 experts!

The A14 has a weber carb.. Is there a way to make that fit on the J13?

I've got a re-manufactured J13 distributor if you're interested. Shoot me a PM if you are.

I have this two-piece adapter for my 620 that will mount the 32/36 to my E-1 engine which should be same as J-13:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Carbureto ... 089wt_1029

Looking and reading this listing leads me to believe it will do the same with a one-piece adapter:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-c ... _584wt_986

The carb will need to be mounted backward relative to normal (bowl in back - throttle lever in front) for the choke to clear the rocker cover. There are photos with this stacked up in my 'Mighty Mouse' thread in this 320 discussion group.

Steve

Regarding the carb adapters I forgot to address that you'll need to come up with two 5/16-NC studs (the long ones that screw down into the mainfold) and two 5/16-NC cap screws as the J-13 is SAE and the L-Series that the adapter is sold for is metric. The short studs that screw into the adapter are OK.

Also you'll need to elongate the carb base holes closest to the rocker cover 1/32" each (1/16" total) closer together. The holes in the adapter will match the carb. Front to back, the holes are 1/16" closer together on the pushrod engine than the OHC L-Series engine.

Steve

Datsunfan 1963,
Here are a couple of photos that I just took of what I've been working on over the past week. I started working with the two-piece adapter that I got with a nice used carb that is slated for install on the 620 (L20B engine). The two-piece would work on my E-1 (I'm positive that it's same as J-13). I had it loose bolted up but felt it added too much height to the total assembly, so I made a one piece, referring to some adapters that I studied online. It is basicly the one-piece adapter that is on Ebay at present that I attached above. In the disassembled photo to the right are the phenolic insulator and gaskets spread out and tilted up.





You can see that the carb mounts on the two studs closest to the head and the adapter hangs out past the original carb mounting pad on the manifold by about 1/2". Thus the tapered port inside the adapter plate cutout. As I'd said. the carb will be mounted backward so the primary barrel will be away from the engine. With the carb bakward, everything seems to me to be a better setup. The idle-air adjust screw and the choke are away from the engine. The throttle lever is to the front and the cable will approach the carb from the side away from the engine.

If you just must have the carb mounted conventiently you can get a carb/manifold kit that mounts the carb further away from the head and is a bolt-on setup.

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/P17-001.html

Big drawback for me is with this manifold, the heat riser area will not line up. You have to make a steel plate to block the heat-riser opening at top-center of exhaust manifold. I don't like the looks of this feature and I want the heat-riser function.

Steve

Oh, I forgot to add, you can get the Weber carb with manual choke if you want to control it from the cab with original cable. It still won't clear the rocker cover with the carb mounted with the float bowl to the front. The manual choke carby is a DGV. My two electric chokes carbs are DGAV's and are electric choke. If you're shopping around, be aware, there are also DG carbs with hot water operated chokes.

Steve

Okay Guys.. Got all the goodies home.. and was trying to separate the engine and transmission.. and its plain old stuck.. Before I break something separating it.. Is there any trick to it? Perhaps a hidden bolt somewhere? I think its in neutral (not sure based on the column shift setup)

With starter off (two bolts) and half a dozen bell housing bolts out it should slide apart.

Hi Difrangia. I have ALL the bolts out.. and the starter.. I can spin the transmission 360 degrees.. but it still wont come out.. Probably just rusted.. Will spray some penetrating oil and try some more

Sounds like the clutch splines are rusted/gummed up and not turning loose. How bout grabbing hold of the tailshaft housing and giving it a brisk shaking up and down while maybe prying between the bell housing and adapter plate with a big screwdriver. If the trany will spin around, that is about the only thing that could be holding it from separating.

Steve

How did this turn out, I actually live in Vancouver WA right across the river from Portland.