How Do I Make A Knock Sensor

[J30_Kidd]

WORK! FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!!!!!!!!

Ok i really need advice here, this is my second KS i've gotten that ain't working for me. The first one i put in the OEM location and it made the car surge on rpms with no power till 3k, The second one i relocated to the top where the ground bolt is for now until my bolt comes in to relocate it to the back plenum bolt. I relocated the ground wire to the top of the ks but i don't think it would screw it up would it, I would imagine i could just ground this ks to the firewall (not that i would) and it would tell the pc all is good? I've tested the new ks and it shows about 578K ohms which from another post i saw is in operating range. It has horrible power until 3k whether the engine is cold or warmed up. I've pulled the ohm readings of the ks when the engine was luke warm as well. I've also tested it through the sub harness wire and all seems to be showing the same reading. For now i've put the 1k OHM resistor in there to bypass it but it's still eating up gas and i use this car at my second job for delivery and gas is killing me. I might step down the resistor to around 600k ohms to help but really would like to make this correct, I've tried 2 times now and am back at step 1 still. Any Ideas why this is happening? Any other test i can do? Maybe two dud sensors in a row? Pictures follow

Also i've used the dielectric grease to and no help, but like i said i've tested it through the sub-harness and have 578k ohms and have continuity between the right pin (ground) on the KS and body ground.

[yodawill2000]

That's a way wrong way to relocate a ks
It need to be on the rear of the BLOCK.
Not the intake plenum.
its picking up a lot of noise there.
It is after all a microphone.

[J30_Kidd]

Well i saw someone else on this web site put it in that location.

I only did it there for now cause I'm currently awaiting for a bolt to come in at a specialty bolt store (M8 x 1.25 bout 100mm i think) so i can relocate it to the back where the long bolt attaches the top plenum to the lower plenum.

My local hardware stores (lowes and home depot) around here don't carry metric sizes of that sort, go figure...

Ok i just did some research before posting this reply and found rdorman had located the ks on that ground blot and had no problems and chingon77 located on top of the throttle cable bracket and it had worked to, of course as i said i really wanna put it in the back on that one blot as show in the pic below but now i wonder Is this position a good relocation as shown in the pic? This is were i was really gonna put it once i got my bolt in (pic from jertapper) in zerothread/282494

[J30_Kidd]

Ok Bolt came in today, freaking 6$ for a damn bolt wtf ugh, i'll post update on how things go after i'm done!

[yodawill2000]

Torque it to specs Bud !!!
Easy to crack plastic !!
And be sure and cleanup/sand the contact on the bottom.
Proper grounding is crucial.

[J30_Kidd]

OK got it in
i torqued it to bout 10-14 ft lbs
i used dielectric grease on bottom,top, and on bolt to make great ground.

just noticed you said to sand it but i tested the ground pin on the ks to ground and got 0 ohms resistance so i should be good on that.

Results: Drove it around for about 5-10 mins, everything was great, had power and get up and go even with a/c on.
On the way back it started to have no power on the low side again. got the the ohm meter and it shows 579 ohms resistance still. Feels like once it got hot it went poop.
Did i do something wrong?

Ground : check
Ohms test through sub harness : check
Torqued 10-14 ft lbs : checked
Relocated as in pic shows : checked

EDIT:
Did some research and seems the only test to do is the ohm test. should be 550,000 ohms [+-] 5%
I've gotten readings around 577k to 580k though the most i should get is 577k ohms, but i've measure it both hot and cold and still hold between that range of 577k to 580k.

I'm starting to wanna blame the ECU but it always works good with the resistor trick though :-(

Maybe this sensor is a dud like the first one? I'm gonna contact the ebay seller and try to get another one or my money back now, i feel that maybe its resistance value is way to high and should be closer to 550k when it's cold.

Any other thoughts on this i would soo greatly appreciate the help ever so much!

[J30_Kidd]

Ok update, So i was being anal and really thought i should be through out about what you said yoda so i sanded the bottom and top of the ks and put it back and retested the resistance, it was showing the 579k ohms, so i took it out for a drive and it was perfect but once again it started getting sloppy after 15 - 20 mins but was only sluggish under 1800rpm, got home retested and ground still good and resistance went down to 568k ohms. I would of thought it should stay at 579k but idk is this normal?

I'm really lost on this and don't know what to do next, i did contact the ebay seller and i'm awaiting to see if he'll ship out another one or get my money etc. I've heard others buy the low priced ones and have success but idk this is my second one and i'm having horrid trouble, i may just have to buy the expensive one next. What else can i look into? maybe something else is causing the engine to actually ping and the knock sensor is actually just working like it should but i'm thinking it is causing problems?
I did notice the intake is pretty hot to the touch, is this normal? Idk i'm lost all i know is that the resistor does the trick every time.

Please help :-(

[J30_Kidd]

Hey if it had knock I should be able to hear it right?

Edit: I'm now concerned that the spark plugs may be causing a knock once the engine is warmed up due to using the bosch iridum 4 plugs, They intake has been getting rather hot and i can only think these plugs are running hot, these plugs worked for another member on here but maybe they suck for me sense i live in texas were it's hotter then hell lol.

On the plus side i called up my autostore and they said i can return these and get the NGK's so whew!

Now as far as getting NGK Plugs, which ones should i get? I heard some peeps say the copper platinum are what they came with and work best but also heard the Iridium is longer lasting but not as powerful as copper. So which exact ones should i get? And with todays terms (some post said NGK Double Platinum which i would guess the GP is the newer version?)

I wanna go with Lx Iridium but have all these choices below, I also cringe looking at the 14 dollar ones ekkk wtf? lol


Ngk-V-Power-Copper $2.29
Ngk-Gp-Platinum $2.99
Ngk-Laser-Platinum $9.99
Ngk-Ix-Iridium $6.99
Ngk-Laser-Iridium $13.49

Thanks for the help in advanced!

[yodawill2000]

PFR5G-11 ONLY !! (Double Platinum)

12.06 at sparkplugs.com
Any other plug will cause issues.

[J30_Kidd]

ok cool thank you, looked that up on ngk's website and those are the 9.99 ones at my local store, they just have a different name then what you call them but have the same part number being 2647.

Damn i was hoping i could get the iridium ones :-( Any reason why those make these cars go wack?

Standard BKR5ES-11 2382 .044
V-Power BKR5E-11 6953 .044
G-Power BKR5EGP 7090 .044
Laser Platinum PFR5G-11 * # 2647 .044 <-----------------------------this one!
OE Laser Iridium IFR5E11 ^ 7994 .044
Iridium IX BKR5EIX-11 5464 .044

[yodawill2000]

Not sure but when I called Joe at everythinginfiniti.com he sent me the proper heat range plug as well.
Im in the Oven known as Texas as well.
There is three heat ranges on that plug.
Read and learn
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo ... p?mode=nml

[J30_Kidd]

Thanks again yoda, i called up my autozone and they didn't have the laser platinum so i went with the Iridium IX ones, they said if they give me the problems to i can return them again and order in some of those platinum ones. But they have the same heat range so they should work.

After i found out they didn't have the platinum's i did do some google research before i got the iridium's and ended up finding a few threads, one being off this site and i believe you were in both lol, Did you end up having bad luck with those free iridium plugs you got off misfit? and on the other thread some dude kinda made a point on if we always kept with what came stock, we'd being using out of date tires, oil and such lol. IDK

At The most i'm very happy you helped me figure this out and learned a bit bout these plugs, I'm gonna see if my knock sensor problems go away and if so then i know what happened, i do feel more power already with these plugs. If i do have knock problems then ill go the the stock ones and go from there i guess ehh...

Thank You

Say I do, Wise You are! Yodawill

[yodawill2000]

I didn't have any noticeable issues with the iridium's but my idle and mileage was noticeably better with the oem spec double platinums,
They are what the engine was designed for.
just as the injectors ect are designed for.
This engine isn't a Chevy.
It was designed for a specific injector , plug , fuel ect.

[J30_Kidd]

Well darn, i used to have a horrible idle before this big project of pulling that engine but after cleaning every tube up and such and even with those Bosch plugs my idle was for once normal and smooth as it is still with these NGK iridium's so far*. Seems like my mileage was horrible but never actually did the calculation on it so i can't actually say it was bad. I'll give them plugs a week and i'll be delivering sum pizza's this weekend and really put it to the test and get a mileage reading with these! I'll keep this updated and hopefully i can make a DIY type thing with my results.

How many miles is or was on your J when you did those iridium plugs? Mine has 214k on it right now.

UPDATE! Took it for a long drive, seems great, never had a lag in timing now with a 30 min drive, from dead stop to WOT it took off everytime, i'll see if it keeps up the great work, next issue now is when i take off slowly it ain't smooth but kinda bogs a little or surges just a little or is just not steady, sorry i don't know how to explain this, could this have something to do with IAC Valve or something, i do recall when i cleaned out the primary one i might of not adjusted that screw/nut on the side correctly and am not sure, gotta get out the good ole FSM stuff :-)

Thanks Again, i'll keep ya updated!

[yodawill2000]

Is the KS still up on the plenum ?

[J30_Kidd]

I have it in the back as in this pic , i also wanted to note i used a M8 x 1.25 with 100mm length, it was a little longer then needed but i found the bolt hole is a through hole so the extra just went through the bottom

[yodawill2000]

Good deal !!!

[J30_Kidd]

I'm glad you approve of that location lol, i was about to shet bricks haha.

I read up on the IACV and adjusted it and will see how this works out!

[J30_Kidd]

Update, after adjusting my IACV it got more power, :-)

I do how ever still have the problem when cruising at about 50 to 60 mph with the rpm around 2000 and my foot off the accelerator, the rpm well surge down and up between 1800 to 2000 rpm. I've adjusted the throttle cables looser thinking possibly i had them to tight but that didn't help. I'm gonna have to give it a test with again with the resistor just to make sure the knock sensor ain't causing this, but first i'll see if any codes are on the ECU, i know i'll have the speed sensor code but thats a analog to digital converter throwing that stupid code.
But i'll still do it to make sure thats not it.

Any other ideas? lol

Thanks people!

[yodawill2000]

Do you hear the transmission hunting ??
as in shifting?

[J30_Kidd]

For sure it ain't hunting between gears, it feels like as if lets to say the compressor of the a/c was kicking on and off real fast causing a extra load to be on the engine and then off again like per second. I haven't gotten a chance to re test it with the resistor back in place or pull codes to make sure no new ones have popped up. I've been busy with a transmission swap on my Beast aka 86 F150.

It was still doing that rev thing today at work, i just got home, maybe i can get off my lazy a** and go do some road test and pull them codes though i'm feeling pretty lazy lol. Working 7 days a week kills ya.

I'll keep this updated hopefully more but i've been tied to the truck forum cause i found out i got a transmission for the truck made up of 3 different years lol! Don't ask it really sucks

[yodawill2000]

I can relate to the 7 days thang,
I'm 24/7 at my job. lol

[J30_Kidd]

ok so took it out yesterday but before doing the road test i did check the ecu, just code 14 for the speed sensor. after clearing it out i went on the road test. I couldn't get it do that surge, go figure... After i got back i ended up washing my Car then going to bed lol

but anyways...
i'm starting to wonder if it's the VSS, it threw the engine light when i got up to 60 mph yesterday.

well gotta get ready for work, i left the ECU out so i can conduct code checks today as i'm delivering pizzas lol

[yodawill2000]

Just a thought.
Back when my EGR tubes were clogged it would do that Check engine at around 55/60 then go away.

See if it through a EGR function code.
Mine did.
Cleaned the tubes and all was well.

[J30_Kidd]

Well Yoda, No engine light today and i even did take it all the way up to 90mph to (don't tell my boss though lol). It's only doing it at random times though, Unless a heat factor is causing it, and by that i mean once the day's temp gets hotter it starts, cause as i mentioned taking it for a drive last night say 6-7 our time here in Texas, i couldn't get it to do it. Then in the morning today it wasn't doing it but started doing it after 12-1. I"m also noticing it's right around 54mph it does it. Also to mention at all these times the car was at normal temp. I was thinking maybe the transmission could be causing it? The fluid is just a lil over the hot fill mark but not alot, but i was also told by a tech if it had to much it would go out the blow out valve up top. I can't really see why it would cause it but just keeping a open mind here.

Yesterday when i pulled codes there was only the VSS code 14.

I'll tell you though if it throws a EGR code i'm selling this thing. Cause i cleaned out both tubes and had to put a new EGR valve in because i broke the cheap crappy (pot metal as they call it) on the old one. I would be pretty Pis sed off, ok i wouldn't sell her but still! Rage i would!

And as always thanks!

[GerryO]

I'll tell you though if it throws a EGR code i'm selling this thing. Cause i cleaned out both tubes and had to put a new EGR valve in because i broke the cheap crappy (pot metal as they call it) on the old one. I would be pretty Pis sed off, ok i wouldn't sell her but still! Rage i would!

And as always thanks!

EGR code can be a simple as an unconnected or dry/cracked/leaky vacuum line.

Good luck!

[J30_Kidd]

When does that egr valve open up? or when should it open i mean. When i put that engine back in i was really a-nal about making sure everything was on and tight, i replaced all the hoses as well just to be safe. IDK blah sooner or later i'll figure it out and be like ohhhh duh lol but i'm sure it's not the egr valve, i'll double check back there though.

My Idle is perfect though, wouldn't a lose hose also screw that up? I would think so, I think i just need Yoda to let me know the force is strong so i may use it on this car lol ok it's late and i'm babbling now!

NIGHT!

[J30_Kidd]

ok found out it's doing it when ever at this point, took off to the day job today, car cold and was zipping down the road and it did the surging stuff around 53 - 56 mph. My engine light also came on so once i got to work which is a 8 min drive (2 big city Blocks) i pulled the codes off the ECU (glad i left it hanging out) and the only code was once again 14 VSS.

Ok so now back to what i was saying, there was no other code but that one. Has anyone ever heard of a speed sensor doing this?

[GerryO]

The vehicle speed sensor (which is in the transfer case near the output shaft) sends its signal to the speed sensor buffer. The job of the buffer is to process the signal and send it to the dash (speedometer), cruise control, ABS, and engine control module. The loss of the vehicle speed signal will can cause the transmission to go into it's fail safe mode.

One thing to look at is the operation of the speedometer when the problem occurs. If the speedometer continues to function correctly then you can be fairly certain that the speed sensor and wiring the dash are good. This would leave the fault with the buffer, the engine computer, or the wiring from the buffer to the computer. It sounds like the engine computer and the ABS module are both loosing their vehicle speed input. This could be caused buy a faulty buffer, but it is not a common failure.

All this was written about a '93 Chevy Suburban, but that should be close enough and I imagine that speed sensor information is more critical and could be less reliable if there is a problem, at higher speeds.

[J30_Kidd]

Sorry for my delayed response GerryO, but thank you. I'm gonna do some research to find out where this buffer is located. I've noticed that it also sometimes has a lack of power in low rpm but it never throws a knock sensor code anymore just the VSS 14 code. Whats a typical repair for this if i may ask? Is it a part or something worst?


Thanks for the help and sorry if i take a while.