how do i get 300whp

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hungryjoseph
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Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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i made another thread simaler to this, but i still have alot of questions and that thread title was dumb.

I have an s14 sr20, with fmic, hks intake, hks sqqv, 11lb flywheel, 11lb driveshaft, safc-2, 3" DP, exhaust, and gutted cat. I daily it at 10psi, and put it at 12 when i push it. My exhaust manifold is the stock cast iron one. I have a koyo radiator and dual electric fans for cooling.

In my other thread, i was told i could get 280whp on 14psi with a tune. heres the setup i plan to get:q45 maf (already have this...)enthalpy rom tune550cc injectorsaem wideband

Is it better to use the z32 maf or the q45 maf? will my safc have a harder time with the q45 over than z32? I've read in my searches through google and nico that alot of the jwt and enthalpy tunes end up being a little rich, and people use their safc's to even it out to a 12.1 - 13.1 ratio. I've also heard the max injector size the safc can handle is 550cc. Basicaly, what kind of whp should i expect from that setup of a romtune (with supported injector/maf mods). do i need to replace my oem headgasket? will it handle 14psi at that said power level?



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hungryjoseph
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morning bump

CoupedUp
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I dont know when the stock HG blows. I would think it would be better safe than sorry. I dont know much about the SAFC in terms of MAF compatability. I do know the Z32 is much more common. You should be able to get 300 WHP without a ROM Tune.

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homeslicej2
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I've read on NICO that the Q45 MAF is much more difficult to work with than the Z32, but I think that's if you're using just a SAFC and don't have a supporting ROM tune/stand alone. The SAFC may not support the Q45 MAF. Hopefully some who have tried/have the SAFC can help you with that. 300whp should be attainable with your set-up. Also, the HG can take 14psi if it's good, but I wouldn't run a stock HG over 10-12psi max, that's my opinion. But yes, more air/fuel/boost/ and a tune should get you there.

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Hijacker
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'94 F-150
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Meh, my stock headgasket has held 13-14 psi for 4 years now.

The stock headgasket is better than people give it credit for. It's just not as boost happy as a metal headgasket.

I've also seen stock headgaskets hold over 17psi reliably. So long as your fuel management is well done, the stock setup can yield good numbers for you.

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ArcherV20
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How to make 300HP.

Step 1: Buy a G37.

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hungryjoseph
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Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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tenkawa_akito wrote:Meh, my stock headgasket has held 13-14 psi for 4 years now.

The stock headgasket is better than people give it credit for. It's just not as boost happy as a metal headgasket.

I've also seen stock headgaskets hold over 17psi reliably. So long as your fuel management is well done, the stock setup can yield good numbers for you.
what was your estimated whp at 13-14 psi? and what motor was it on? s13 or s14 sr?

Geno750
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Buy this from me, s15 turbo with tubular manifold turbo elbow, s15 oil return, hardline coolant return bent for s14 motor

And this stuff:Enthlapy ecu for 740cc dworks injectors/z32mafAVC-RZ32maf


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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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hungryjoseph wrote:
what was your estimated whp at 13-14 psi? and what motor was it on? s13 or s14 sr?
I guestimated a little over 210-220 at the wheels. That's a conservative guess of course since I can't back it up with dyno time. And it was on an S13 motor.

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hungryjoseph
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so do most people go for a headgasket job when around 280whp? and is it possible for me to just bolt a gt2871r onto my manifold, without a tune, and keep it at a low psi, like 7 - 10? that shouldn't break the 230-240whp right? will the ecu be fine with it? my friend is selling it to me for a really cheap price

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Mouse6933
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umm i think some of the angles on the inlet will be different u have to clock the turbo, and maybe need to get a new intake, hotpipe. i know phase2 and some other companies make adapter kits, for pretty cheap. which are spose to make these turbo true bolt ons. i personally never used them. YEt to put my 2871r on.

also the hg . i personaly am replacing my hg, just for my comfort. But my good friends car. is stock everything cept injectors. z32 maf, and aem., greddy intake mani. and he has 2871 rs. he put down 343 ... soo i guess it truely is 90% all in tuning... Soo i hope this helps out some and keep us updated on what u do..

myles

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jr_ss
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I think an OEM headgasket as long as it's been replaced and ARP's will hold up quite well.

Personally, I think the headgasket should be replaced when you're doing a motor swap anyways, but that's just me.

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Hijacker
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The headgasket is just susceptible to wear and tear due to the material it's made of. But for a paper gasket, it's fairly stout.

I'm actually on the fence about using a stock headgasket for my motor rebuild right now. If it wasn't for the fact that my wiseco's will supposedly raise my compression to the 9:1 range (that's what wiseco says at least), I wouldn't even be having the debate. To relower my compression back to around 8.5:1, I'm considering a thicker, metal headgasket.

But a new stock headgasket and ARP studs will make you quite golden.

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redtop91
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Doesn't the block need to be decked for a metal HG?

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Hijacker
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you are correct. your block should be checked and decked , otherwise you will leak. a stock headgasket can get away with it just because of its design material. it fills imperfections better.

but all that said, there are dozens out there that don't check and deck and run metal headgaskets with little to no issues. so it's possible to run without doing a check and deck, but the risk of problems and leakage goes up.

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hungryjoseph
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Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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generealy it take slike 5 hours to do a headgasket job right? i'd be taking it to a shop for that. I dont mess with that. should i have them replace my timing chain and tensioner?

exode
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Car: 90' 240 w/ 400hp SR20DET

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um whatever my enthalpy tune ended up being really lean and my JWT tune was just right. Granted I pulled more HP with my enthalpy tune but it was alot more aggressive, I still swap it in when I do racing tho =)

Z32 MAFS are a more reasonable tuning option, just because of the experience that tuners have with them. IE I don't think Enthalpy will do a Q45 MAF. Both offer same air support, and you'll have more support for wiring one in.

Just remember with either MAF finding an adapter bracket for the filter (atleast mine, for an airnix filter) is going to change and might be a pain in the ***...be prepared.

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hungryjoseph
Posts: 1465
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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exode wrote:um whatever my enthalpy tune ended up being really lean and my JWT tune was just right. Granted I pulled more HP with my enthalpy tune but it was alot more aggressive, I still swap it in when I do racing tho =)

Z32 MAFS are a more reasonable tuning option, just because of the experience that tuners have with them. IE I don't think Enthalpy will do a Q45 MAF. Both offer same air support, and you'll have more support for wiring one in.

Just remember with either MAF finding an adapter bracket for the filter (atleast mine, for an airnix filter) is going to change and might be a pain in the ***...be prepared.
thanks dude


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