How difficult is it to change the valve cover gaskets on a 1991 Q45?

[quinttheman]

I need to know if there are any potential problems I should know about. I have just reached 150K miles and just had them changed 14 months ago at the dealer. What is the life expectancy for the gaskets?

[maxnix]

No gaskets, just RTV for that year.

Longevity depends on workmanship and materials.

[quinttheman]

Wow!!! So the dealership charged me over $800 for labor and RTV. What is the torque for the screws/bolts?

[szh]

Wow!!! So the dealership charged me over $800 for labor and RTV.

Almost all of that was the labor cost - it takes time ... if you can DIY, it is worth it!

Z

[maxnix]

Read some of the excellent threads on doing the pre 1994 VH45DE as there are some tricks to manuevering the valve covers with RTV applied to them.

If the torque values are not there, post again and someone will look them up.

[texasoil]

its a royal PITA. Made to be done with engine removed from the car.

[RobertsnewQ]

Yeah, mine drool a bit from the back bottom corners so it's in the cards. Maybe on the next oil change, but I'm NOT looking forward to it.

[DAEDALUS]

I wouldn't call it easy, but nowhere near as much work as pulling the engine. Seems like changing the spark plugs gets you 70% of the way there or more.

[RobertsnewQ]

I wouldn't call it easy, but nowhere near as much work as pulling the engine. Seems like changing the spark plugs gets you 70% of the way there or more.

Good to know. The PO did the plugs at the 60k service, but that was in early 2003 (now 78k). I don't think I'll replace them, but I might pull and check the gaps if I'm going to all that trouble.

Can you buy the valve cover paint anywhere? Mine have a couple of bad spots and it would be nice to repaint before putting them back on.

[maxnix]

I might pull and check the gaps if I'm going to all that trouble.

Plugs are pre gapped and really should not wear enough to change the gap until 60K miles. NGK specifically cautions on the box about gapping. Takes a special professional tool to keep tip of grounding electrode parallel to plane of tip of firing electrode.
Modified by maxnix at 4:02 PM 8/5/2005

[sparkplugs.com]

Just don't gap iridium plugs (copper and platinum are fine) Here's proper gapping instructions from our site:

"In most cases the factory set gap should conform to your vehicle specifications. However if it is necessary to widen the gap, do so with a tool that only pulls back on the ground electrode without touching the center electrode or the porcelain. To close the gap on a plug, gently tap the plug, electrode first on a hard surface.

"Manufacturers don't recommend adjusting the spark plug gap < or > .008". The reason for this is the ground electrode and center electrode won't line up properly, hindering spark plug performance." (as was already mentioned)

[Q45tech]

Seems wasteful to not change the plugs at 78k as they are exposed during the resealing process............if there is a rear cover leak be assured there is a leak around the spark plug wells and oil around the spark plug base. And oil vapor on the coil extension to the plug top.

These engines are designed to be serviced every 60k or 4-6 years.......the 94 changes was an attempt to prolong this cleaning - resealing to 100k [didn't work well enough]........the rtv > gasket.

Not nearly as difficult as Ferrari or Maserati or Lambrogini [V8] but close.

[Raxephon]

What is the torque for the screws/bolts?

Valvecover to cylinder head (bolts) : 5.1-7.2 ft/lbs

Page: EM-32(Care of my '91 Service Manual/Bible)