I didn't realize the Greddy sensor was small enough for that. I bet he has an Autometer unit, and those are too large to thread straight into the stock location (aside from the wrong thread pitch). They hit the oil filter before they can be threaded in. OP, I used a brass adapter threaded into the stock oil sensor location, mounted my sensor on top, and reinstalled the stock sensor as well. I now have a NISsport adapter (similiar to the one you posted, but looks nicer IMO and is made out of better material) that I need to install. The brass adapter can break/crack over time due to the heat and vibrations from the motor. I made a how-to thread about this yrs back, it's in the tech section. I need to update it though.DuckyD wrote:I pulled the stock oil pressure sending unit and installed my Greddy sending unit, then removed the oil pressure light in the gauge cluster.
I hope to install the NISsport adapter (made out of steel alloy) this weekend (we'll see) and will update that thread then.allmtoreg wrote:yea im trying to stay away from brass. i think i saw your thread. i just dont kno where to get the adapter from. and im using a glowshift gauge which looks like the same sender unit autometer uses. same thread pitch too
I'd like to see that.homeslicej2 wrote:I hope to install the NISsport adapter (made out of steel alloy) this weekend (we'll see) and will update that thread then.allmtoreg wrote:yea im trying to stay away from brass. i think i saw your thread. i just dont kno where to get the adapter from. and im using a glowshift gauge which looks like the same sender unit autometer uses. same thread pitch too
Here's my new set up with OBX housing (only using one crush washer on each fitting though). [Finally got picture loaded].almost heaven wrote:I had a pressure sender brass fitting break off. Fortunately, it broke off in a brass neck extension i used to push the sender out far enough so that it did not interfere with my spin-on remote mount plate (which also leaked).
I am now puttin gon an OBX adapter housing in place of the spin-on remote plate, but am again using a brass extenstion for the pressure sender. Thinking about using that Club RSX SS adapter now... thanks for the info.

Oil sender on the OBX housing kept leaking and was hard to get at (as you all know), so I remoted mounted it to the firewall. Problem solved. Not real pretty, but good enough to get me running for the season again (I hope... now have some fuel tank issues).almost heaven wrote:Here's my new set up with OBX housing (only using one crush washer on each fitting though). [Finally got picture loaded].almost heaven wrote:I had a pressure sender brass fitting break off. Fortunately, it broke off in a brass neck extension i used to push the sender out far enough so that it did not interfere with my spin-on remote mount plate (which also leaked).
I am now puttin gon an OBX adapter housing in place of the spin-on remote plate, but am again using a brass extenstion for the pressure sender. Thinking about using that Club RSX SS adapter now... thanks for the info.
Also had leak trouble with tape on brass fittings, and had mixed bspt and npt fittings. Got that fixed: got new brass fittings with npt thread, and mounted the pressure sender on the bulkhead; sorry, pics of THAT to follow.


Thanks for the advice. I just wanted to get a honking big one, and the oragne fram was the biggest i could find. I'll get a good one now. I mounted the filters high to get them out of the way. Does it matter?homeslicej2 wrote:No orange FRAM filters please. Those things are horrible filters. Search online for comparsions, cut opens, etc. They are not even decent filters. Use Purolator PureOne, Mobil 1, WIX, K&N, OEM (search bc the OEM's come in white or light blue casings for the SR's and one is good, the other is not, and I can't remember which), etc., but not an orange FRAM. Btw, why do you have your fuel filter & oil filter mounted up high like that?