How did you installed your oil pressure sensor?

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allmtoreg
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2008 4:26 pm
Car: 93 240sx coupe

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im debating on how to go about this route. i saw the article on it but he did not say where he got the adapter to the oil pressure sensor. Right now im stuck between this http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/CLU-...oogle or a oil sandwich plate (which in my experience always leak) i would like some ideas on what other people are doing. The sr20 is the bpst threads correct? and the aftermarket sensor is normally npt?


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DuckyD
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Car: 1995 240SX
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I pulled the stock oil pressure sending unit and installed my Greddy sending unit, then removed the oil pressure light in the gauge cluster.

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homeslicej2
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:46 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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DuckyD wrote:I pulled the stock oil pressure sending unit and installed my Greddy sending unit, then removed the oil pressure light in the gauge cluster.
I didn't realize the Greddy sensor was small enough for that. I bet he has an Autometer unit, and those are too large to thread straight into the stock location (aside from the wrong thread pitch). They hit the oil filter before they can be threaded in. OP, I used a brass adapter threaded into the stock oil sensor location, mounted my sensor on top, and reinstalled the stock sensor as well. I now have a NISsport adapter (similiar to the one you posted, but looks nicer IMO and is made out of better material) that I need to install. The brass adapter can break/crack over time due to the heat and vibrations from the motor. I made a how-to thread about this yrs back, it's in the tech section. I need to update it though.
Modified by homeslicej2 at 10:14 AM 4/13/2010

allmtoreg
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2008 4:26 pm
Car: 93 240sx coupe

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yea im trying to stay away from brass. i think i saw your thread. i just dont kno where to get the adapter from. and im using a glowshift gauge which looks like the same sender unit autometer uses. same thread pitch too

almost heaven
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:14 am
Car: 1985 RX7
Location: Virginia

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I had a pressure sender brass fitting break off. Fortunately, it broke off in a brass neck extension i used to push the sender out far enough so that it did not interfere with my spin-on remote mount plate (which also leaked).

I am now puttin gon an OBX adapter housing in place of the spin-on remote plate, but am again using a brass extenstion for the pressure sender. Thinking about using that Club RSX SS adapter now... thanks for the info.

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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allmtoreg wrote:yea im trying to stay away from brass. i think i saw your thread. i just dont kno where to get the adapter from. and im using a glowshift gauge which looks like the same sender unit autometer uses. same thread pitch too
I hope to install the NISsport adapter (made out of steel alloy) this weekend (we'll see) and will update that thread then.

almost heaven
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:14 am
Car: 1985 RX7
Location: Virginia

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homeslicej2 wrote:
allmtoreg wrote:yea im trying to stay away from brass. i think i saw your thread. i just dont kno where to get the adapter from. and im using a glowshift gauge which looks like the same sender unit autometer uses. same thread pitch too
I hope to install the NISsport adapter (made out of steel alloy) this weekend (we'll see) and will update that thread then.
I'd like to see that.

almost heaven
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:14 am
Car: 1985 RX7
Location: Virginia

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almost heaven wrote:I had a pressure sender brass fitting break off. Fortunately, it broke off in a brass neck extension i used to push the sender out far enough so that it did not interfere with my spin-on remote mount plate (which also leaked).

I am now puttin gon an OBX adapter housing in place of the spin-on remote plate, but am again using a brass extenstion for the pressure sender. Thinking about using that Club RSX SS adapter now... thanks for the info.
Here's my new set up with OBX housing (only using one crush washer on each fitting though). [Finally got picture loaded].

Image

Also had leak trouble with tape on brass fittings, and had mixed bspt and npt fittings. Got that fixed: got new brass fittings with npt thread, and mounted the pressure sender on the bulkhead; sorry, pics of THAT to follow.
Last edited by almost heaven on Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Hijacker
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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I've never had an issue with brass fittings. But the pressure gauge sensors I've installed in the past, we've used a brass T fitting to retain the stock sender for the dummy light as well as have the dial gauge.

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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^yeah, my brass T-fitting is still just fine after 3 yrs. I've read online and seen a handful of threads/pics of people who had one crack or break off on them. I figured the steel one would be a safer bet.

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OM3GA
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Car: A Sexy Mobile, 1993 Nissan 240sx 180sx Hatcher

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I use the NisSport adapter.

almost heaven
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:14 am
Car: 1985 RX7
Location: Virginia

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almost heaven wrote:
almost heaven wrote:I had a pressure sender brass fitting break off. Fortunately, it broke off in a brass neck extension i used to push the sender out far enough so that it did not interfere with my spin-on remote mount plate (which also leaked).

I am now puttin gon an OBX adapter housing in place of the spin-on remote plate, but am again using a brass extenstion for the pressure sender. Thinking about using that Club RSX SS adapter now... thanks for the info.
Here's my new set up with OBX housing (only using one crush washer on each fitting though). [Finally got picture loaded].

Image

Also had leak trouble with tape on brass fittings, and had mixed bspt and npt fittings. Got that fixed: got new brass fittings with npt thread, and mounted the pressure sender on the bulkhead; sorry, pics of THAT to follow.
Oil sender on the OBX housing kept leaking and was hard to get at (as you all know), so I remoted mounted it to the firewall. Problem solved. Not real pretty, but good enough to get me running for the season again (I hope... now have some fuel tank issues).
Image

Image

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homeslicej2
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:46 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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No orange FRAM filters please. Those things are horrible filters. Search online for comparsions, cut opens, etc. They are not even decent filters. Use Purolator PureOne, Mobil 1, WIX, K&N, OEM (search bc the OEM's come in white or light blue casings for the SR's and one is good, the other is not, and I can't remember which), etc., but not an orange FRAM. Btw, why do you have your fuel filter & oil filter mounted up high like that?

jaman
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:12 am
Car: 1996 Nissan 240sx S14 Sr20det
2006 Audi A4 2.0t

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NISPORT adapter FTW. My greddy sandwich plate would rattle and the knock sensor would pick up on it.

WIx filters are nice as well they have 6 or 8 oil slits which is closest to OEM Nissan I have found but better. Good enough for Nascar is good enough for me.

almost heaven
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:14 am
Car: 1985 RX7
Location: Virginia

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homeslicej2 wrote:No orange FRAM filters please. Those things are horrible filters. Search online for comparsions, cut opens, etc. They are not even decent filters. Use Purolator PureOne, Mobil 1, WIX, K&N, OEM (search bc the OEM's come in white or light blue casings for the SR's and one is good, the other is not, and I can't remember which), etc., but not an orange FRAM. Btw, why do you have your fuel filter & oil filter mounted up high like that?
Thanks for the advice. I just wanted to get a honking big one, and the oragne fram was the biggest i could find. I'll get a good one now. I mounted the filters high to get them out of the way. Does it matter?


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